Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Argentinean Sauce - Recipe

Makes 1 Litre of sauce.

1 Tbspn. of Coriander seed
1 Tbspn of Cummin seed
2 Tbspn. of Fennel seed
1 Tbspn. of Drien Oregano
5 Bay Leaves
4 Tbspn. of Paprika
1/2 bunch of Parsley
3 Tbspn. of Tom. Paste
Salt and Pepper
3 Cloves of Garlic

1/3 Measures of White Vinegar
2/3 Measures of Canola Oil

These liquid measures above depend on what you wish to do with the sauce, but the ratio remains the same.

Place all ingredients in a good blender and blitz until desired thickness is achieved.
Store in the fridge.

Enjoy!

Giles

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Gaucho's Argentinian Restaurant ~ Review

Choosing a restaurant destination for some northern hemisphere guests is hard, when the time is limited and the cultural divide is wide. I think a sense of culture and place is important to any dining experience in another country and at this point some colleagues recommend Red Ochre Grill. I repost with the view that I don't necessarily believe a cultural dining experience is made from an attempt to create a singular Australian cuisine. I am leaning toward Gaucho's Argentinean Restaurant. Gaucho's is a piece of the cultural puzzle that goes into the Australian dining vernacular. Culturally diverse and generally accurate of the original migrate experience, yet deeply Australian in its ease and laid back style as well as the distinct providence of its produce. I have inhibitions about dining with several people I hardly know particularly the impending translation issues: I foresee much talk about pandas and strange marsupials.

For entree or Primer Plato the table endeavoured to try the oyster in the house style Ostras del Diablo (1/2 Doz. $19.9) which were not overly impressive despite the potential in the ingredients. The fresh Coffin Bay oysters were far more refreshing and satisfying than the value added alternative (1/2 doz. $16.9). The waitress was cool and cunning - almost mischievous sadly it was lost on our guests or so they acted. The sharing extended to a modified platter of beef, pork and fennel chorizo sausage served with fried polenta and a rocket and dried tomato salad, on this occasion our platter was embellished with large char grilled prawns and sectioned squid. The sausage was a hit and I loved the crisp, richly textured polenta. The prawns were a big letdown, dry and floury as though not fresh or overcooked or both!
I hijacked the wine list and made an intentional choice with our guests in mind, I mean to blow their head off with big bold shiraz from the Barossa Valley - Glaetzer, Bishop. (I reckon '06)
My mains choice was the Cordero, chimmi churri marinated lamb loin chops served on s-mash with chorizo and wilted spinach and pan juices ($36.9).
The rest of the table ordered from the 'Carnis' menu which sit near the $40 mark. The Vaquita Cordobesa, 350gm grass fed yearling fillet ($41.9) and the Bife de Chorizo, a 450gm grass fed bone in porterhouse ($39.5) were the two popular orders. Both cuts are aged and dry aged for 4 weeks respectively. All requests were made for medium cooking. I cringe a little when I hear any request for such large cuts of meat cooked beyond medium rare. There is significant damage done to meat on a grill whilst waiting for a medium steak to cook, of course there is a resting time and thankfully none of the meat ordered on this night showed the signs of premature plating - pooling blood or 'juice'.
Our guests went big on size and flavour to which I say ‘Well Done!’ The fillet with Shiraz and peppercorn sauce and the Porterhouse on the bone with a blue cheese sauce. Both extremely large and cooked to the order, yet their display would not speak this truth. They appeared almost black from the char grill that it is unavoidable on a medium steak of that size. The char grill can be a blessing and a curse to the flavour of meat, try not to order beyond Medium rare and you will discover more to the beef
However, the lamb had terrific flavour with the sweet, rich aroma that fills your head. The dish was lacking some balance away from the rich and pungent lamb; the wilted spinach barely carried its own against the powerful marinade. I looked to my glass to balance my meal as I found no match on the plate and took to guzzling the Bishop. As no one else seemed interested in the vino I was allowed to revel in the quality lamb and wine.
The preparation and consumption of such serious cuts of meat is as much about perception as about what is going on around it, Gaucho's do a very good job of keeping the cut of meat the star and the supporting roles are kept as such. Gaucho's would struggle without the supporting players like sauces, wine, linen, providence and cheery, diligent service. An Argentinean restaurant seems a relatively simple idea: "Grill some steak and slap it on a plate". A simple idea is only as good as its execution, Gaucho's seem committed to the produce as being central to their ideal. The providence of each cut is labelled clearly on the menu as well as the type and length of aging which is no mean feat when fluctuating trade can reap havoc on the bottom line. Gaucho’s is as much about professionalism as it is about the meat, go once in your life and enjoy the whole package not just the choice cuts.


Giles

Friday, December 18, 2009

Weird Dessert

I have eaten all sorts of weird shit: offal in Rome, chargrilled lambs tail, tongue, brains and fish eyeballs etc.
The weirdness now extends to Vietnamese desserts.  My colleagues are real food nuts!  They sell their desserts in the work canteen, you can also buy spring rolls fresh deep fried or frozen.  There is also prawn sticks that are wedged onto stalks of bamboo shoot (I think).
The dessert is mostly coconut milk with green food coloured noodles floating around like gizzards, and then there is some ice and some chewy ice looking glutinous stuff - No idea what that is?
Check it out:


Giles

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Retro Mixer

An earlier post on thesculleryblog showed a General Electric hand mixer, with some fairly stereo typical design aspects of that era: Colour (horrid), Styling (boxy like a Chevy Chase station wagon), Solid (over engineered before anyone knew about the money to be made in selling inferior quality), Toxic (I shudder at the thought of all those ozone depleting and carcinogenic chemicals impregnated in these products). 
I remembered that a hand me down food processor was slowly irradiating toward its half life in my cupboard, almost the same era - awesome!

This food processor is a utilitarian version with an interchangeable slicer and grater, and the instruction booklet contains some fairly whacky recipes like Chicken 'N Orange Toss, which might be all right if it didn't recommend the use of canned segments of orange or mandarin as a viable alternative.  Did they not have fresh fruit in the late seventies / eighties?  Oh yes, and if you thought plastic was not a material you should understand the food processor has a faux wood veneer detail panel at the front - "Ah! - The good old days when food processors were crafted from rare timbers and the family would stand around singing as mother cranked the handle."
I assume the timber is to remind us of the chopping blocks we threw away as we headed out the door to purchase the latest gizmo! "There I was chopping with a knife like a fool!!"

If you have any retro appliances you wish to show off and reminisce about something loosely related go to thesculleryblog page on facebook and become a fan to post your retro appliance!  Do it now, waste your precious minutes!

Giles


Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Beat Mix

"Homewares!" an industry built on desire and gadgetry.  A Sunday lunch with relatives and on the kitchen bench rests a retro hand mixer made by General Electric.  It has the typical orange & mission brown boxy styling quintessential of the late seventies early eighties.  I cannot get over the label that guides the user through the different speeds of the mixer - Beat and Mix conjure images of Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five breaking down some salsoul jam for the people on the street corner while Nancy Citizen bakes a cake in her wood panelled kitchen.  
John Citizen: "I was in the den and Nancy was doing her baking and five furious men and a disc jockey appeared demanding we 'turn it up' or was it 'mix It up!' I can't quite remember.   I obliged and they proceeded to break dance on the linoleum floor - It was quite rhythmical, and Nancy was getting quite excited!"

Giles

Scary Spice Writer.

I had been thinking about writing a long winded piece about: Our food leaders' severe lack of etiquette: The grotty and dirty habits of TV Chefs that rate so highly. I think of all those moments I have licked a spoon, dipped a finger or wiped when I should blown (my nose) and I think ‘well – maybe it’s not such a good idea, I’m no angel.’

Maybe I should focus on the camera and the directors controlling them, who can amplify any idiosyncrasy and turn it into psychological disorder worthy of a leafy metropolitan suburb institution! The pointy bit of my argument was going to be "George’ous" Calombaris of Masterchef and Ready, Steady, Cook fame, his poor cutlery handling has turned me off his general TV presence. I do not blame him, I blame the machine that made him into the crispy denim (G) star that he has become. He is amongst brutish company: the swear bear Ramsay, Oliver who can barely string two real words together (made up ones don't count!) and least of all Granger, that scary stylised smile scares the bejesus out of me! The point of my rambling discussion could have been that these men are probably all right blokes. Real down to earth types – you could have beer and a laugh about something.... The real measure of a star is the way they work a crowd especially when they are at Food Shows held in packed out auditoriums making crude remarks about our Tracy or using stupid words like jubbly! There’s Granger on the side of stage just smiling, not at you but through you into your very soul! Calomabaris, the feisty little Greek man is also guilty of auditorium antics – along with his grinning sidekick. You Tube it and see them piss farting around for yourself.
My essay would have been quite substantial with significant reference to the rising molecular food movement (amazing bullshit) or moralistic gestures to ‘slow food’ stalwarts like M. Beer. Truthfully I have neither the patience nor the skill to surmise why these highly skilled culinary entrepreneurs are the way they are. They appear to be arse monkeys, who make me sick with jealousy over the passion, drive and focus they have to their work!
Don’t your cheeks hurt Bill?



Giles






Thursday, December 3, 2009

The Barkeep is back, so drink it up!

My friends and loyal blogsters the Barkeep has returned.
Not only has he been tasting, imbibing, sipping and quaffing he has been writing - feverishly.
I am looking forward to seeing what hits the pixels!

The most recent entry on TheSculleryBar is a mild rant on the ethics of bottled water, and of course 'Two For Review'.

Giles

Monday, November 30, 2009

The Table - OPENING SOON!

Blatant promotion is the best kind!
Check out the website of the newest place in the hills, opening soon! http://www.thetable.on.net/

Go Dotti, Callum and Jackman!

Giles

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Hot and Cold Swinging Doors!

As soon as one door closes another one opens...
Do these swinging doors head in the same direction?
Well - I think so!

89 Prospect Rd. Prospect has been a particular point of interest for me as a good example of how NOT to open, run or sell a restaurant business.
The Rock'n'Roll venue now defunct has been rapidly replaced by Shankers Indian Restaurant, formerly of Main North Rd. Sefton Park. It is common to read that the old venue smelt of a pungent bodily fluid. So a change of location seems appropriate, but I wonder if the food will get any better? My irreversible memory was one of extreme saltiness and cheap cuts of red meat.

I will keep you in the loop - cos' I cannot wait to see what goes down!


Giles

Monday, November 23, 2009

New Prospect's

Prospect Rd. north has undergone rapid change recently, it has been renovated and there are new opportunities for shop owners peddling specialty foods, ware’s and services. The resilient ability of shop owners to reinvent themselves after some horrendous introductions to this usually fair country is one that we should be applauding and supporting. The manner in which they contribute to the local community is of greater benefit than any large chain store, they maintain their traditions of culture through generating income. Their presence makes our cultural mix richer through their ambition to provide service and produce, each in very different ways.
I have been a loyal patron of the Lucky Asian Grocery, (412 Prospect Rd. Kilburn. 8262 3395) for many months now and I am amazed for several reasons: The price of grocery’s, the service, the range and the freshness. I have completely realigned my weekly menu in line with shopping at this eclectic little venue. I search in their freezer section and look closely at the ingredients, made in Australia – Mile End in fact. Noodles thin thick, pale, clear and ‘eggy’ – all freshly made locally! Gawler River birds in the fridge, fillets of beef so cheap you’d think the last 10 years had never occurred. I request guidance to the fish sauce or roasted soy/chilli paste (better than vegemite!) and receive it promptly and cheerfully sometimes with a cheekiness you might expect from an old friend. I return home laden with fresh supplies, I am always exclaiming to my partner the “usual” price of a large packet / jar / bag of... and asking her to guess what I paid. I know she knows the game, we play along so I get to make my point however diffused it gets.
The Ghan Kebab House, (366 Prospect Rd. Kilburn. 82624042) is a unique eatery with every element checked and ready to create a success story. My first encounter was very early in their history and the flavour of the grilled kebabs and spicy sauces made me sit up and pay attention. A smokey char grilled kebab served with fresh salad and fresh Turkish bread. The servings were so substantial I thought that this could not last – well they have whipped their service into line and now have the product singing “eat me – but leave me wanting more!” I am pretty sure they buy their bread from the bakery down the road...
The Tasty Turkish Bread Bakery (Shop 4, 428 Prospect Rd. Kilburn) is a sort of throwback to days when a baker made one sort of loaf and that was good enough for everyone. This could be true or that I am always late on the scene and the alternative offering have been purchased – there never seems to be more than a few lengthy loaves on the shelves. Guaranteed they are fresh, two dollars ($2) two dollars ($2) will get you a bag so buy a few and freeze lest the rainy day cometh! A commitment to a cause such as baking your traditional bread in a land of water filled nonsense seems like suicide but I find it completely admirable their focus and determination to making great bread. I would call them craftsmen: skilful, focussed & unwavering.

Sunshine Vietnamese Meat Roll (Shop 4, 370 Prospect Rd. Blair Athol, 8349 8020) The humble Vietnamese elongated loaf didn’t make sense to me for so many years. I would stuff it with cheese, fritz, tomatoes and HP or homemade tomato sauce. Try it after a heavy night (I developed the recipe when I was 9) of cartoons and lollies! The Vietnamese Meat Roll is a true revelation of the working lunch trade which I am not completely sure has reached the CBD. If and when it does, be ready and get in line! The reason my fritz’n’sauce yumbo never seemed quite right was the lack of fresh herbs, chilli, sauces, shredded meats & vegetables. Coriander, Spring onions, Cucumber slices and julienned carrot are fresh sweet and fill out the crispy nothingness that is the 20cent loaf. Add a little fish sauce/ soy / Chinese vinegar and fresh chilli and my golly gosh it is heaven on a dirty industrial estate! Oh! Have I mentioned the price $3.50 for a grilled chicken with all the trimmings!? I tend to steer clear of indiscernible meat products on offer, tread the new path and you may find joy as I have.
I think Prospect Rd. (north) has certainly moved well beyond its far richer and affluent southern neighbour in terms of culinary diversity and accessibility. The Prospect (south) Fashion, Food and Wine Affair was a complete culinary farce and should be relocated a few K’s north. Recent beautification efforts in Kilburn have worked and now hopefully the community will respond with enthusiasm, pride. Yes I look to incite rivalry between north and south because often it is the best remedy for inaction.




Giles

Thursday, November 12, 2009

So long Cheong...

It is official, Cheong Liew is finally abandoning the sinking ship of The Grange Restaurant at The Hilton Hotel.

Change is inevitable and you have to work very hard to stem the tide if you wish to remain a stick in that mud - Over time this pressure will surely engulf you. This news is clearly proof of the Hilton Hotel's inability to change over time, to attract new clientele to the restaurant and they (Hilton) are now moving to amputate the gangrenous limb (The Grange). Cheong is probably 4 or 5 years to late in his departure. It may have been better timing to leave on a high, and to pursue new ideas and challenges without the doubts of the public and the weight of bad press over your head. On the other hand Cheong may be an institutionalised Luddite who knows only the confines of the Hilton Hotel, longing for the heady days when rattan and wrought iron were fashionable and fusion was merely a spark of insecure genius! Let's wait and see how this plays out.

So long Cheong... we might miss you?
Giles

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Goodnight... Failhouse Rock!

With strange synchronicity I was walking through the Prospect Plaza (A tiny community mall) when from the corner of my eye I catch the words "Restaurant" and "For Sale" on the pin board.
I thought instantly that it is too good to be true... What is the chance? I call the mobile number after purchasing a few select groceries and on the way home with the sun dipping behind the trees I get an answer on the other end. "Hello I am just wondering what is the address of this business for sale?" I ask anonomously.
"89 Prospect Rd. Prospect." The very same.
On the 21st of September, I gave Jailhouse Rock 4 weeks to live... and wouldn't you know it on the 21st of October there on the wall in all of its poorly spelled glory....FOR SALE.
Giles

Monday, October 19, 2009

Indian Temptations - Review




A former colleague of mine suggested to me I should try the curry at this little place near the intersection of Main North and Grand Junction Roads. I took this good advice for several reasons: For one he was humorously known as “The Guru” and two... other reasons seem to fade once a Guru has recommended a worthy curry pilgrimage. The previously mentioned intersection has long been a cancerous scar on the landscape, nothing good can come from fifteen lanes of maddening traffic converging at one point. From a culinary perspective you might imagine the teeming thoroughfares of Asia with plentiful delights to be found at their verge, but here at this insidious latitude there is only a Burger joint and The Gepps Cross Hotel with only shattered glass and carbon monoxide to shepherd you onward.

My first experience of Indian Temptations’ was a quick Friday night take away order to fill the void, I called in my order and I am invited to bring my own bag – good thinking. I enter the allotted time after and I find a teeming venue, heavy and potent with spice and humidity of deep fryers and broilers going at full tilt. As I wait in line I spy some paper bags leaving with nearly every order. These bags hold freshly cooked Naan coming from the cylindrical brick walled oven. Indian Temptations’ stocks have just risen significantly, this shows real commitment to cooking in a genuine and authentic manner. There is Tandoori Chicken hanging from their skewers and naan bread miraculously clinging to the super heated walls of the oven – Superb. I place a late order for a plain Naan and I am told curtly that there will be a fifteen minute wait. Popularity has gripped this little oven and its attendant is feverishly working to keep the dockets moving. I cancel my order, and prepare to pay and leave... Belatedly I am offered a Naan that was to fill an upcoming order by the cashier and she smiles as I happily accept. An extremely wise move – If only she’d known. The Tandoori oven chef was damn near fuming now that he was in back order! As a first time at any Indian restaurant I stick with the favourites, I feel it a reasonable way of benchmarking against other similar venues. A Lamb Roganjosh ($10.9) was first and a reasonable effort but the term “Lamb” irked me a little, the meat was terrifically pungent more like sheep and would discourage some but certainly not me. The Butter Chicken ($10.9) had a smokey (Tandoori Oven) quality and was its point of difference over many mediocre efforts in the local area, a delightful change. It’s rich, sweet sauce could have used some more punch but it very well could have un-balanced the dish. About now I feel a vegetarian option might round out the experience, so a Channa Massala ($7.9) is chosen mostly for its mighty spice kick. Since having the Channa Massala the first time I have had it two other times since. It has large, fresh chick peas cooked in a powerful mix of cardamom, ginger and more – the spiel indicates a “special blend” – they are quite right. I am completely taken by Indian Temptation’s special version, I can only imagine that this is what a curry should really feel and taste like. Other dishes tasted and heartily consumed on different occasions include a Beef Korma ($10.9) which was creamy but too salty to really hit the mark. The Beef Vindaloo ($10.9) however was so powerful it nearly forced me into a sweat, my dining partner and I concurred that it was a serious curry and not child’s play! Worth the pilgrimage merely to be allowed to wear a T-Shirt stating the fact of your survival! A huge mention should go to the Samosa Chat ($9) a mash up of deep fried Samosa, Tamarind Chutney, Yoghurt, Chick Peas and Mint sauce. Utterly fantastic! It is not much to look at but as though the Guru had whispered to my soul, my tastebuds buzzed with the serene mixture of tart tamarind and minty yoghurt – Oh my deity! The side dishes are all present and all at reasonable prices, my tip would be that a Steamed Rice ($3.50) Small is enough for two people sharing two curries. Also give the pappadam’s a miss, not because they are inferior – the Naan is so much better. Fresh Plain Naan ($2) or Fresh Garlic Naan ($2.5).

I happily return my thoughts to my Guru, as I know he will hear them. But for the uninitiated I will spell it out. Indian Temptations is a very good reason to negotiate the Junction of two of Adelaide’s clogging arteries; its place is very secure with loyal clientele so get in early while it’s still relatively unknown. The opportunity to experience flavours unique and so genuine the teeming traffic on the road out front just adds to the drama, perhaps delivering the bustling experience of one of India’s great cities.


Giles

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Baking Bender!

I like a challenge and it is not often a challenge gets the better of me, and sometimes my pride can get in the way of rational admission of defeat. This time I am utterly confused - yet still intrigued as to how this culinary challenge got the better of me.


The challenge was to bake a basic chocolate cake for a friend who wanted it for their wedding cake. White frosting and and two tiers of simple square design, this holds the biggest challenge - A Square Cake!


I can bake, I accurately follow recipes when baking and I know all the procedures for best results - like maintaining the air in a light eggy sponge cake. So I refer to the baking bible of Aaron Maree's Cakes, Tortes and Gateaux's. It has every old world cake recipe with very good pictorial decorating instructions. Plus every cake I have made form this cookbook straight from the late eighties has never failed.... Until now! I started with the light and not to rich Chocolate Genoise` Sponge, I make and bake it with success. A taste test by my bride approved taster - "No, not rich enough"... This is not good. The idea of layering up a square gateaux with choc chantilly cream is not going to happen - all of my best efforts to explain how the richness needs balance with frosting and layers is lost. I back track and bake one of my old favourites the dark cocoa cake - "No"

F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!

I search the pages of the cook book and find a recipe for a Devil's Food Cake - which is the chocolate version of Angels Food Cake. An American contribution to the baking world that is extremely popular because it is rich moist and satisfying without cream.
Cake 1 - Rises, doesn't set. falls....Shit. Is my bi-carb soda 10 years old?
Cake 2 - Rises Slowly, cooks a bit better - But eventually falls, Double Shit!
Cake 3 - If this one does not work I have to pull the pin and go into contingency mode! What do you know it Rise nicely and so i cook it steadily and do not open the door or skewer it until it definitely cooked through... Test - Fail! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!
Cake 4!! - One more - This time with SR Flour and trying not to over mix in a smaller bowl... Signs are good and with a consistent rise I am happy with the help I recieved from my Mother (bless her) i let it cool and wait until the morning to test the cake. I slice right through the middle to reveal a cavernous hole of uncooked cake. F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!

I call in a favour from some former colleagues and a massive (layered chocolate sponge) gateaux is ready and waiting the next day. Phew! Wiping brow - relief. I haven't completely ruined everything.

I will master this recipe... but the mystery is still out there...

Giles

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Bad Mo Pho`

I love Pho` and it loves me. There are moments when I am in a Asian grocer and I want to buy just about everything knowing it could significantly shorten my life or those around me. I press on and buy stuff that looks good, I usually stick with some consistent brands like the Pantainorasingh Brand or Ayam. Generally the brands that get the spelling correct and label the ingredients accurately. On this occassion there was a nice mix of Chinese English or chinglish (even though being made in Thailand) I read the ingredients in this Pho` paste and saw Monosodium Glutamate E621.
Is my love of Pho` real or is it synthetically enhanced by the MSG that potentially could be tricking my brain into thinking this shit is good! I will still eat and enjoy Pho` but I think I might avoid the jar paste variety and attempt to make my own... Truth is the jar paste wasn't bad but again the mystery remains was it the MSG or was it the heady brew of spice and beefy goodness? Could be a rough night ahead: sweating, shaking, hallucinations and thats just the Aussie playing One Day Cricket!!







This video is backed up by Food Standards Australia document on MSG...
http://www.foodstandards.gov.au/_srcfiles/MSG%20Technical%20Report.pdf#search=%22msg%22
Giles

Monday, September 21, 2009

Failhouse Rock!

Prospect Road has a number of reasonable venues that are occupied by some fairly cluey operators. They obviously can run a small business. Sadly, some have succumbed to competitive pressure, more often than not a little competition can sort the men from the boys. We said goodbye to "Simply Salubrious" a small indy style venue with no clear identity - a Cibo opened up next door and you can guess the rest. Oh, it wasn't very salubrious. One venue that has me a little worried is the old court house (No. 89 Prospect Rd.) it has had so many different types of venues in it it has ceased to be attractive in any way... A good friend of mine would say the venue has "cancer" - it may not be the business it self suffering the disease. Although I saw some new garish signage plastered on the front walls, inviting us to the "JailHouse Rock", well I read on (intrigued that the previous persona did not last long at all -"Bobby Dazzlers" or was it Johnny Rottens? lasted 2 weeks) I chuckled and then I laughed! Such desperation to get punters in the door and someone has made some pretty rash choices.Caterered?? Pizzaria?? Aside from the obvious spelling FAIL I think Prospect could do without another Pizza joint... I will let the punters be the judge of that.
What's wrong with some Cheese-burgers, Fries and Soda's??
I give them 4 weeks to live...

Giles

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Hobby Habit - Editorial

The Age (Epicure) has a habit of focusing on what could be seen as hobby farming, I admit a very good way to engage a reader in the love affair with food. BUT - It skews the reality of what the average Australian farmer produces and the way they go about their toil!

An example of what is totally unrealistic and frankly a little bit hypocritical in my opinion is the pig farmer who is happy enough to slaughter her pigs but won't sell them to just anyone based merely on the way that person is potentially going to prepare her beloved produce! WHAT is this person farming pigs for if not to be slaughtered and eaten? Farmers all over the country deal with these issues everyday and have to learn to live with it - I think a broader view of primary producers is required by the media in general. It may not be the most intriguing cover story, but certainly truthful which is important particularly in the meat industry.

"...pigs she raises for meat are never given names. "That would be too much," she says. "But when I send them off (to be slaughtered) I thank them that they are helping us all survive."
Like Andrew Wood, Behrendt came to farming later in life. She was born in Kew and grew up in Glen Waverley. "There's something that draws you to the land. You can't describe it but it's a powerful feeling that you can't deny," she says. "And next thing you know you're a pig farmer!"
Behrendt's respect for her pigs continues long after they have oinked their last oink. She has been known to refuse to sell her pork to people she doesn't think meet her criteria.
"Some people come to my market stall and throw the meat around," she says. "I refuse to sell it to them. Others tell me how they are going to cook a certain cut and I just know they are going to stuff it up so I don't let them have it. I raised those pigs. I knew them. I am never going to see their flesh abused in my market stall or in the kitchen when someone cooks the crap out of it. I can do everything right on my farm but it only takes a few minutes from a crap cook to ruin the meat from my pigs."... Read the full article, follow the link below.
http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2009/09/07/1252201176498.html

What's Glen Waverly like? Does it meet your criteria?

Giles

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Food file - What has been happening?

You know there is going to be good story with a string of photos. Well there is no apparent link to loop them all together in a tenuous daisy chain of foodie fatness and over indulging....

This photo is on the balcony in Townsville with my Brothers in laws and our family having just arrived from the south... Nothing says welcome like a shit load of seafood! I think I made that door stop of a cheese board in the centre of the table... I might have to make another to avoid them suing me for sever spine pain?!
Coopers Vintage Ale has sort of had a mental block for me - like the times you went to the fridge with the munchies and completely decimate the weekly shop and wonder how why what? Well I just think they (Coopers) should just hold onto it longer and it would sell better - or do as the Belgians do - use "Bret" yeast...
Well here is a calorie count that is truly off the scale - A Tart ta tin (spelling? TinTin?) with a crushed macadamia magnum in the guts - not for the faint of heart cos that faint heart would surely fizzle to a painful stop. It was rich creamy and crispy - I was well pleased with my tart!
The Royal Adelaide Show has many hidden treats, most of which should remain hidden - but the SA branch of the CWA is truly a haven for the inevitably disillusioned show goer! Scones, Jam and cream, pot of tea and a cup of soup with buttered wholemeal bread for a morning tea $11 You beauty! Thanks Nana!

My fathers love affair with any sort of Sauternais wine continues - and I do not mind when he leaves the odd bottle behind.
Giles

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Estia Restaurant - Review

I admire few cultures less than ours here in the South of Australia. The climate alone is more congenial to socialising. Only a few worldly locations seem more enticing when you consider their native cuisine. Greece always appears when I write any sort of list of favourites, I don’t have to think it merely etches itself onto my foolscap. Recently I have sought after newer Greek venues to see if they have what it takes to test the real performers in Adelaide, the answer is no. Real performers are not so boisterous or bloated that they forget their place, but they’re industrious in their accumulation of golden stars, loyal clientele and success! Estia Restaurant has achieved a little niche on Henley square just adjacent to a hotel with so much spoilt testosterone it shall go unnamed. I am sure Estia has seen its fair share of bulging arms beneath obscenely small shirts yet they maintain a steady course for their ultimate goal of customer service and flavourful Greek Food. We booked well in advance and warned that there could be a toddler and the odd pram involved. No problem – yet when we arrived we were at the front door. That’s a small problem. Straight off the bat it is a standard order of dips and bread – of course, get to know your Greek restaurant by their dips and pita. (Dips $12.5 Pita $1.50/serve) Sparkling Ale will start you right for the afternoon especially on such a spectacular spring day. I know I never should do such a thing but I order without looking at the menu, knowing each of my favourites is set in stone on this menu. Loukaniko, grilled sausage ($14), and Pickled Octopus ($17.5) are my first predictions. Once again I would happily judge a lazy Saturday Greek restaurant on these dishes, and would be intrigued if they did not. There was a relatively small bowl of Prawn Saganaki for $17.5 which was quickly overlooked when I noticed the grilled meat had arrived. A large stainless oval platter with miniature Greek salad and a bed of brown rice or buck wheat set the scene for some superbly tender BBQ Lamb ($16.9) and even better BBQ Quail ($15) quarters. The little creatures had certainly not suffered in vain, I was revelling in such terrific morsels of meat I failed to tuck into any Patates ($9) and just got some Greek Salad (small $7). But neither mattered I was still enjoying the bird and bleating lamb, it almost momentarily distracted me from the toddler cracking his head repeatedly without a wince on low flying furniture. Hilarious! There was one small hitch, a Moussaka ($16.9) with meat which is another Greco catering test. Our very particular dining partner made very sure there would be no review of it so it shall remain a mystery, but the fact this individual is not willing to share this dish on any occasion must be a compliment to the dish, or else my name isn’t George-Yeah!?
Socialising is what the Greeks do best... gees, they created the whole concept of sitting around eating, drinking and generally having a good old time. And now in ’09 they charge others for the experience, did they create that one too? When Greek food is good it seems effortless, food rolls out the kitchen, the staff are well honed and you wonder why you would ever need to eat anything else. Estia achieved this on a sunny September lunch service, they are clearly a real performer without being distracted by the testosterone ‘guns’.

Giles

Friday, August 28, 2009

A Refreshing Mantra - Interview with Head Chef Dioni Pike

Picture above taken from the July '09 Delicious Magazine.
I was once much more influenced by the opinions of men merely through my lack of confidence in chatting socially with women, but now as I am interviewing a successful female chef I am thankful of my progression in life. She has achieved much in the short time since her entry into the industry yet still considers her future journey as equally valid as the one preceding her. Dioni Pike began her apprenticeship with a Welsh Pastry Chef who didn’t treat her with much kindness, I propose this hardened Welsh tuition may have shaped Dioni into something of a driven professional. I have been Dioni’s junior colleague but the years have seen us diverge in careers yet none of her direction has been diverted by flippant fantasies as mine.
We enjoyed a beer at the Wheatsheaf Hotel on George St. and discussed where the next venue would be for Dioni’s next endeavour. The answer was clear: Mantra, 36 King William Rd Goodwood. Why? Well it seems Ms. Pike not only appreciates the change from a fast pace restaurant to the more relaxed dining but the food focus changing from traditional rustic flavours to a more refined wine oriented dining experience at Mantra.
Being very literally between jobs on her last day at Panacea, (72-74 Halifax St. City) I was privy to some information you would only achieve in an interview – funny that.
My vested interest is in dining out so I asked about Dioni’s first real dining out experience. “Eighteen years go – Phillippa and Donovan Cooke, a husband and wife team, we had lunch at Luxe and Est Est Este for dinner which is now Circa, I had the cookbook and was pretty excited. First time of spending copious amounts of money but understanding why I spent that money”. Dioni highlighted the service being so focussed that the wine selection was made prior to being seated and it was decanted upon selection so that it had time to breathe. She remembers being so greatly educated by the experienced it stuck with her as a highlight. More recently was a casual Friday lunch at the Bridgy Mill, that’s the spirit!
Ms Pike is a fan of the States quality produce, so I asked her what her favourite product of the moment is, the one she just had to have? “... (Short pause)..... Cheese, I love cheese” Her current flavour fav is the wonderful mix of quality Ale with Cheese, namely a Moo Brew Dark ale.
We spoke briefly about getting in front of the camera as is the common theme with successful Chef’s, but Dioni has already done her time on the frontier show AM Adelaide. Dioni confessed she is actually quite shy and did not revel in the situation. She sees herself being more likely to take on apprentices or have a role teaching in the industry. She is very well place to do so having begun her apprenticeship as a pastry and all the inherent difficulties with mastering flour and yeast. “I find pastry tougher than cooking, cos’ with cooking you keep tasting until you have the right flavour, yet pastry is so precise especially yeast work... it’s so more complex. Yet cooking has the pressure of service”
Inspiration comes to her in the simple things like eating a fresh picked strawberry on a warm day, she enjoys this so much better than higher end foods like foie gras etc. This mentality has suited Dioni at Panacea with the more rustic meals being what she was cooking for herself at the time and she was so pleased when it transferred to the restaurant so successfully.
Dioni is now enjoying her confidence in the kitchen, but it did not come easy though. It requires “massive drive to want to do it, especially when you start out, it’s extremely tough and there’s lots to learn, and dealing with the pressure... Now the busier the better, a lot more fun – the adrenalin kicks in, you are confident in what you are doing. There is nothing better than doing an amazing service.”
“...You are head down bum up... It is a select few that can deal with the pressure”
“Prioritising and sacrificing a lot of your social life, I have always lived opposite to the average person... Most chefs at my age are heading away from the industry, but I feel I have barely tipped the iceberg”
Dioni is getting motivated about creating and trying new things. She also mentions her limited family has meant her sacrifices have been made easier. But with a warning you need to have a well balanced lifestyle, else it can be very, very tough. This lifestyle can rapidly take its toll, heavy drinking, smoking (surprisingly –when taste matters), fatigue. The “knock off drink” can often descend into heavy Bourdain style drinking session. Although not immune to these crazy sessions Dioni prefers to use her powers for good like restoring furniture or learning to play the guitar – which is not going well. I know a power chord can go a long way.
Her home life still involves cooking and Thai food is coming first for top cuisine followed closely by French, but she admits it tends to be the opposite of what she is cooking at work. She is enthused about the opportunity presenting itself at Mantra, 1st November. She also extolled the virtues and passion of her soon to be boss Ben Warren – a multi talented restaurateur who wears many hats, least of which is music.
Dioni has her head well and truly fixed and she commands respect with her presence and calm speech. She could well be a role model for all females considering a career in the industry, how to succeed with passion, pride and strength of character.
Her future goals do include a restaurant in McLaren Vale’s with a relaxed dining atmosphere using the best produce the region has to offer, I implored Dioni to let me know immediately it is open.
The best indication of Dioni Pike’s passion is that cooking is her hobby.

Giles

Leo's Lunchtime!

My mate Leo is an upwardly mobile high powered sales exec. for a company that will remain nameless, unless they wish to sponsor thesculleryblog to eat out more often - HINT. Leo finds some great places to lunch out! Dine with him at your peril, you might just witness the fitness of this corporate predator!
Thahn Long is a popular lunchtime stop for the locals on Hanson Rd and travelling workers in the area. It epitomises everything that is good about Vietnamese food - Fresh, Fast, Tasty and Cheap! A chicken roll will set you back about $3.50 and it packs the punch of fresh chilli, herbs and sauce that is apparently made on site! Leo could not confirm or deny this information.
The small rice packs are ideal take away lunch time eats, simple and so effective. You may have guessed cash only. Remember the price?!
Wok'n'Noodle, a recent addition to the concrete consumer hub of Gepps Cross - You might come to look for a poorly designed piece of furniture and stay for the Pho`. You would know thesculleryblog loves a good Pho`and this clean little venue is a great spot for the soup of choice!
$7.50 a bowl with plenty of Beef and Noodles it might just get you through to 5 without having to reach for a cold roll!
Leo hasn't become the high flying white collar without saving some pennies along the way - and this is the best way to fight the economic downturn. Leo recommends "keeping it real, and to cut the crap" he speaks the local lingo, and has the skills to pay the bills!


Giles





Sunday, August 23, 2009

The Brunswick - Review

The world has its way of telling you something, but how do you tell a chef to pay attention to the details when they are working split shifts 6 days a week in a tiny pub kitchen. The Brunswick had been on my list of pubs to eat at since they removed the corrugated verandah from the saloon bar. So a mild Wednesday evening in August comes around and the city pub meal seems very enticing.
I step into a neatly organised saloon bar no longer resembling the themed farmhouse of years past, the fashionable interior highlighted with antique furniture and homogenous art. The classic features have been effectively highlighted, like the floorboards, terrazzo bar frontage and the pressed metal verandah ceiling.
The pub menu is a much pondered subject... Does a pub take stance and say no to gastronomic influences and continue with ‘Roast of the day’ and ‘Seafood baskets’? I am recently inclined to think that the food and the decor should match, such as a restaurant. The short walk through the front bar to the saloon and around a delightful seated area to the dining room brings the decor to just on level with a reasonable restaurant. The menu reads well with some interesting inclusions and some pub standards. Note no beef or veal schnitzel, big call!
We are interested in a Brunswick Platter ($22.9) on the short starters list, it arrives very promptly which I would have expected on a quiet evening. It held a few surprises for the table, which suited the Steam Exchange Stout we were sampling off tap. Oysters and stout, poached star anise pears and stout, Grilled chorizo and anything! These were really good combinations to start a meal, my thoughts in particular were racing, beer included of course! The specials list had some great options which put the hard decision with our table and we required more Stout and the wine list. A bottle of fairly generic ‘Gamekeepers’ Shiraz Grenache 07 was requested and an 08 was delivered. Do I have grounds for complaint? Oh well, it was just the ticket for the diverse range of meals ordered. I attacked a grilled Pork Cutlet ($22.9) with Cheese tart and beans with a fig glaze I forget those details as the glaze and tart had chilled significantly since its preparation waiting for its porcine keystone. My immediately adjacent diner had ordered from the specials, Eye Fillet ($22.9) with a mash, wild mushrooms and a glaze the details are again hazy as the mash and the sauce were heading south in degrees. It was cooked correctly as was the pork and both were very tender serves. On hearing the ‘chilled’ news I whip round the table with queries of “Cold?”. The responses were mixed, the Stuffed Crispy Skin Chicken Breast ($23.9) with roast capsicum coulis arrived hot but its accompanying risotto tower was chilled at its base and warm elsewhere. The chicken was stuffed with an under seasoned mix of spinach, ricotta and pine nuts. The Red Curried Snapper ($22.9) from the specials was suitably heated although there were mumblings of the curry being to overpowering, I would contest that Red Curry is specifically formulated to be overpowering. The Chicken Schnitzel ($16.5) is offered with lemon, it appeared to be standard Pub Schnitzel effort but the crumb seemed to have received some special treatment I could not pick, but well worth the price tag. I didn’t really care if the chips were cold against the plate, as there is a distinct line in the sand when it comes to serving a dish with a specific sauce and offering deep fried beds of chips to lay your crumbed protein upon. The allowances given to the pub oriented meals are justified, as for the more refined dishes I would reference the restaurant quality decor and question why the kitchen procedure does not match.
On this evening the plates were cold, otherwise the meals would’ve impressed. The Brunswick Hotel kitchen has done almost everything right, smart menu with diverse choice to coax the blinkered diner away from the TAB. The world is cold and harsh sometimes even on a mild August evening.
Giles
Footnote: Rip it Up Mag has a bad habit of trimming the odd sentence or stanza from the printed reviews. So it is best to get the full review here....

Monday, August 17, 2009

Maintain your rage!

The evil has mad its insidious move toward the green grocer and we must fight - We are human beings goddamit!!

Read the bad news on my least enjoyed news site...

Woolworths - "I'm as mad as hell and I'm not going to take this anymore!"

Giles

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Cucumber Crime - What!?!

Well it is finally started for real here in South Australia.... Vegetable theft is common in Queensland and Northern NSW where vegetables seem to grow in a matter of days, but it has not been reported in S.A. on such a large scale. This has got me worried for all those people who buy veg. from the back of a car or a so called grower perhaps in a "Sunday Market"...

Check out the ABC story...

http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/08/12/2653384.htm

"Thanks to the ABC for not knowing that I've used their photo yet.... And if anyone has seen these cucumbers - I would give them a good wash and then perhaps make some nice raita to go with your Lamb Rogan Josh - Triffic!"

Even though these cucumbers that were stolen were ready for picking and some apparently were bagged and ready for sale the issue raises some interesting issues. If a thief slices open a plastic covered grow house that has been sprayed that very day with a pesticide or worse, and proceed to rip off vegetables nearing sale time and back up to the car to a boot sale, some poor shmoe is going to encounter some nasty chemicals.
Think about it: Growers know what they're doing, grocers know what they're doing, Thieves like to think they can get in on the act.

Giles

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Tuesday Dinner - 2001 Tart Odyssey!!

Dinner on Tuesday evening at ours is always an interesting one, I am finally recovered from the weekends hi jinx and well and truly into the week. Pays in the bank and I feel the need to cook.


So here is what I cooked....

Gorgonzola, Leek and Chicken Tart with Rocket, Walnut and Pear Salad.
I am scared of pastry, mainly because I am never prepared and never willing to research - it is always off the cuff. Not puff! Like Stanley Kubrick's Ape man in the kitchen....Fire - Hot. Pastry - Hard! Burnt pastry - too hot! Urgh! oohh ahh! ahhh! aaaaahhhhhh!
Thankfully this time I experienced some success, the pastry was blind baked sufficiently to hold up through the cooking of the tart.
What I did:
Saute off three well washed and sliced leeks in some butter and oil, try and get up some colour on the leeks. Throw in some diced thigh, season with salt and pepper and loads of fresh thyme. You can add a dash of stock to de-glaze the pan, only if you want to keep it really moist and rich, but make sure you drain off any excess or cook it out. Turn the heat off before the chicken cooks through. Allow to cool.
Blind bake your shortcrust tart bases in small greased ramekin bowls, I cut the pastry base round first and then the outer rim with a long rectangle looped up. I pressed it down into the base and pierced the pastry. I blind baked them on about 180degC for at least 20-25 minutes or until I could see and feel the base starting to dry out. I should off turned off the fan as the rim was starting to brown up seriously! Oh well... ooohh ahhh ahahh ahh! I had seven eggs in a bowl with 80mls of cream (I had one egg per tart plus one for good fun) Whisked up to completely combined. Once the tarts were baked and the chicken and leek cool I sliced the Gorgonzola into "Meaty Chunks" and put one in the base of the tart and one on the top of the combined egg and cream mix with leek and chicken. This is seasoned before spooning into tarts. At this stage I am unsure of how long to cook it so I throw caution to the wind and try 15 mins on full noise. Once again the oven fan is taking its toll on my crust! AEEEEHHHHHH!!! Another 5 and a short rest in a oven (off) with the door ajar. My knife comes out clean so we're away.

Some rocket, walnuts, sliced bosh pear and a little vinaigrette with red wine vinegar, Pendleton lemon pressed oil and some good ole Dijon.
Magic - The first ooozing of Gorgonzola was my golden star of approval. This is certainly one to work on to get it to a cranking recipe, please give it a crack and let me know how it goes!!
Giles

Sunday, August 9, 2009

My Fair Farina - Quick Bite Review


Farina Kitchen Bar was our choice for a quick Saturday evening bite before hitting the town with a leave pass from the 2month old Son care of Nanna. We slipped in very early to beat any rush and catch the Chefs before they are flooded with their first rush of orders. We sipped on some German made Pilsner and looked down a menu that is highlighted by interesting use of ingredients - The would make any Foodie Happy! But for not so intrepid eaters it is a little confronting as they are limited to a few choices as they shy away from new experiences or old ideas of how things taste. I am finding the choices so enticing I would like to try several, choices made tougher by a limited selection of Wines by the glass. So with my choice of wine driving the dinner choice I move toward a Scorpo Chardonnay 06 I think, this puts me in line for the Rabbit Leg or Confit Duck. I could have really gone to Foodie town with Lambs Brain Ravioli with garlic, entree size only - Lambs really aren't that smart! I decide with my large brain (ha!) to have the Braised Duck. The wine arrived near frozen and had nothing of the richness I was after - thankfully It warmed up significantly in my palms before my duck arrives... The instant pungency of the game'y leg and mustard fruit that adorns this classic little dish is a welcome change form recent meals, the lentils and diced veg is knee deep in an amazingly rich and rounded jus. I am happy to see such a well crafted dish is not confused with other textures and dotted by silly little garnishes that rarely add any benefit to a dish. My partner maintained their trajectory toward the waiting pub, a pilsner and a the swimmer crab risotto. Hooray I spy fresh shucked peas - A gold Star for this kitchen! If you know the sculleryblog you will know my dislike of packet peas in a dish nearing $30 - $7.50 Counter meal Roast yeah ok. But not in a "Restaurant" Unfortunately the Rice was still a little firm and not quite finished - people will tell you that Risotto should be creamy and not stiff, but it's all for nothing if the Arborio is on the tough side of correct. Some more Crispy spuds with garlic rosemary and salt to keep the beer in check and we were gone. A lovely quiet meal in a neat venue, despite showing some unfinished bits its intention is certainly not lost on this blogger - I would happily return for more and perhaps splurge a little more. All in the name of critical reference for all those who appreciate it!Giles

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Argo Hellenic Cafe Restaurant - Review

I have a vivid imagination and could quite easily describe my vision of a smart Greek eatery on the main drag of the up’n’up Port. Long wide dark timber floors greet you as you push the small heritage shopfront door into a lengthy dining room. An olive skinned person smiles as they usher you to a table on the long softly textured wall which hangs tasteful vistas of the Aegean or Mykonos. The lights teeter between eye level and head high as they warmly comfort your eye toward crisp paper below polished, casually set cutlery and sturdy glassware. Sigh!
I am expectant of some clean Greek flavours with hearty meat options, this is mostly my optimism kicking in as the menu is light on adjectives. The bare minimum is committed to enticing us into our choices, although I know the potential of each of the Mezede and Entree. If all goes well our wallets could get away with a sneaky Greek feast! The dips of our choice were good, pita warm and servings enough to keep you interested yet contented. The Skordalia, potato garlic dip was smooth and powerful. The litmus test of any Greek Restaurant the Tzatziki was thick and crisply flavoured with correct pungency. A new experience for our table was the Kopanisti, a Creamy fetta laden with olive and chilli. So simple and effective. A small stack of handmade Dolmades, seasoned rice filled vine leaves and the Loukaniko Cyprus, Grilled Cyprus Sausage were both heat and serve options and survived the journey. The pickled Octopus, Octapodi Xidato was a let down to our start, lacking any pickled quality at all. I am more confident now that we have overcome the initial shock of our arrival to Hellenic Argo. It was a little different to what I’d imagined. Our host has a very awkward way of interacting and he seems to be alone tonight in his role as maitre d’, head waiter and barman. There is only one Indian chef (?) and no grandma’s to be seen. The dining room is extremely harshly lit, almost equal lux with an electronics assembly line. We are seated smack in the middle of a pretty much empty dining room which was not exactly the most hospitable move, seeing as more cosy options were available.
Let’s be clear, “Rustic” food is not a magical cloak to hide your culinary sins. Rustic just happens to be the outcome of centuries old tradition unchanged by progressing trends or haughty flings. Rustic is unwavering commitment to what clearly works. The Moussaka ($16.5), layered eggplant, potato mince and cheese was neatly presented in an earthenware dish which added a lovely method of spooning out the piping hot ingredients. The lamb ($19.5) was carrying scars of a char grill with fresh volcanic rock, dusty, smoky and definitely overcooked. The reverse treatment was administered to the Quail which was taken up with management by a distressed punter nearby. Raw and near flight! Traditionally a quail should be medium with plenty of time spent on low heat to permeate the little bones and win the battle with their sinew and relent to the nibbling teeth that wait. We skipped the bird. The fact that our neighbouring diner felt so motivated to talk to the chef about his inadequately cooked dish is definitely a sign. The Braised Baby Goat pieces were still pungent and textural after many hours of heat treatment, however it was on the dry side it must be said. And the solo accompaniment of soggy spuds looked sad as they surrounded the pond of pan juice which had none of the clarity of flavour it required, it was just muddled stock, oil and cooked out herbs. Sorry Sir, Rustic has the night off. I could leave the rest of this short review blank with many readers being clear in their thoughts about what Argo Hellenic has to offer them. Others may ask: Does Argo have potential though? Sadly not in the few good signs or was it whipped into shape by the razor sharp words of an unhappy “Wharfie”. But you could see a place like this becoming popular for the wrong reasons and developing a rough and ready clientele who already know there is not much to offer so treat it thus. The totality of the evening including wine offerings seemed passable upon reflection of the bill, but some of the flavours were not as potent as I clearly remember from tremendous Greek experiences throughout our city and suburbia. If I had to scale this restaurant on some sort of numerical scale I would have to dust off some of the lower digits that rarely get used in this city.


Giles

Note: Next time you are reading the The Local "Rag" check out their numerical scaling system and its obvious inconsistencies!!

Monday, August 3, 2009

"Blessed are the cheesemakers"- Editorial

Does our fabulous state have produce awards? It seems there is an award for nearly everything, even food blogs! I am still waiting for a nomination - Anyone - Anyone?
Restaurant and Catering South Australia have released the winners of their awards in 09. See the list Here.


Giles

Sunday, August 2, 2009

New Kitchen - Fluff


Let me tell you about my pride'n'joy (the kitchen!):
Benchtop: Salvage Solid Jarrah - 80X40mm Timbers
Cabinets: Createc by Fresh Kitchens - These guys need to be pushed.
Stainless Steel pieces: Delway Brass.
Window: Adelaide Security House, I am never happy with these guys, but no one else cares?!?
Appliances: Electrolux E:Line Fridge, Cooker 600mm (Elec), Gas Cooktop 900mm. Bosch Dishwasher.
Rangehood: Qasair, UV 800- 1. Oh Yeah!
Sink: SA Made Oliveri, Petite 1-1 something...
I have said many times this kitchen is like a fast car compared to the old bomb, but as you would know old bombs work and get you where you need to be - you learn to live and function with them and sometimes shine with their limted capacity. Sad? you might ask? No! I will learn to relax and control these powerful prancing horses soon and I will be braking hard and hammering it from the apex of the corners!! Slow food! Eat my dust!
Giles

Tropical Pizza "to go!" - Editorial

Recently on holiday in far north Queensland for a significant family event, I was presented with less than I bargained for...
When men get together for very impromptu gatherings involving distilled malted barley and fine Cuban Cigars they can be forgiven for ignoring sustenance. Assuming the collective mood was that this single malt and spicy smoke will get me through - No? I am often of the same opinion, enthusiasm is a very persuasive emotion. But on this occasion someones conscience got involved and rightly ordered some pizza's to make sure that a level of decorum was maintained on that evening and perhaps into the wee smalls. I was given the seeming simple task of perambulating to the condominium gate to collect the 4 large pizza's for the jovial mass. As I walked the paving through the copy, paste architecture of the resort I wondered will 4 large pizza's be enough, as I know that I myself can oft inhale half a large pizza by myself if the goings good. I imagine myself chomping hard on a 12" LP to remember the size of the international standard of "Large Pizza". I arrive at the entrance to the very secure resort and I am greeted by the headlights of the stereotypical pizza vehicle - small, near scrapyard condition, but this time with a middle aged female as its pilot. I realised later they sent a female to help diffuse a potential situation. In my best QLD drawl I say "G'day, What's the damage?" How right I was. That'll be $82 thanks". I think I responded with something witty like "Strewth! -What are they gold plated?" She did not answer, or I did not hear her response. I was then removing the cash from my surprisingly well stocked wallet (holiday wallet mode), thinking of all the fantastic flavour combinations that could adorn these beauties. Was it going to be Gorgonzola, Rocket, Potato and Rosemary or Smoked Ham, Avocado, Sun dried Tomato and port caramelized onions? Maybe they had Italian sausage here in Far North Queensland, ooh this will be good.
I grab the receipt just for proof I did pay, and didn't threaten her imaginary poodle with imminent death for those pizza's. I try and sneak a peek to make sure these pizza's are gilded or at least silver plated, her headlights dip as she reverses and sputters away down the hill and I can only make out a crispy crust -Good signs!


I clear some space and manoeuvre the lids to reveal all 4 pizza's. A truly amazing phenomena has occurred on the short walk from the front gate to the table, the gilded pizza's with unique and epicurean toppings have been replaced by some act of David Copperfield with processed ham, cheese, pineapple and a hand full of machine pitted "jar" olives. My disappointment is unable to be withheld for the greater good of the evening. Little does the assemble group of testosterone know that I am hyper critical of all food - especially when you pay a premium. I figure my ensuing outburst must be akin to road rage when I have been unfairly cut off and made to look red faced! I demand satisfaction, but from who, where? What just happened??
Is our distance from a capital city determine a higher price of usually economical purchases? Or are we blessed in our home capital cities for a reasonable price for fantastic pizzas?
I winged and I wined without support or confirmation from anyone who had ever experienced any clear discrepancy in pricing. Note: Queensland is an obscenely big state - long, in particular! If you haven't driven it you'll not know that when you get to Brisbane you're just half way to Cairns!! Despite it's size they have a great transport infrastructure and until recently have had subsidised petrol, for all those itchingly parochial Jo' B'Petersen fans out there! And for interest you can get fresh muffin dough delivered to your Cafe Kitchen doorstep in Cairns, made in Brisbane before it thaws. Tremendous! All for the measly fee of around $3 (cost) dollars a Muffin.
With the prevalence of Italian cuisine / cooking all over the world there should be, for the sake of the rest of the world some sort of "Polizia Nationale" sharply & smartly dressed Polizia seeking out poorly made and poorly priced Italian food. Perhaps a proper punishment would be public disgrace (with rotten 'glasshouse' tomatoes) thrown t'ward the stocks! I was clearly outnumbered in the consideration of the delivery, I was remunerated moderately, and I struggled to finish a slice when I realised there was undercooked onion hidden beneath the insulating doona of cheese! (This reminds me of 'Russells' - Too much onion!)
Are people naturally less critical in awkward social situations - such as male dominated situations? I have experienced these situations where men will press on through apparently happy with mediocrity when others in less oppressive circumstances would protest!
I need to know I am not alone, tell me I am not alone! Male's, whatever form should have some sort of critical review or spine to say "No!" this is not good enough. And as a footnote to that last statement the critical review of any food is not proportional to my opinion of present company at said 'Male Gathering' or the skills of the host....

There I said it! Balls out truth!
Giles



Thursday, July 30, 2009

Yesterdays word of the day...

Add this to your lexicon...

Dictionary.com
sapid \SAP-id\, adjective:
1. Having taste or flavor, especially having a strong pleasant flavor.
2. Agreeable to the mind; to one's liking.
Chemistry can concentrate the sapid and odorous elements of the peach and the bitter almond into a transparent fluid
-- David William Cheever, "Tobacco", The Atlantic, August 1860
I've raved about the elegant and earthy lobster-and-truffle sausage, the sapid sea bass with coarse salt poached in lobster oil, and the indescribably complex and delectable ballottine of lamb stuffed with ground veal, sweet-breads and truffles.
-- James Villas, "Why Taillevent thrives", Town & Country, March 1, 1998
Sapid comes from Latin sapidus, "savory," from sapere, "to taste."

Giles

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Cheong Liew kicks ass! - Comment

ps. I bet you that the Hilton won't be spending any money on their Restaurant's any time soon!
Well I am eating humble pie, the Hilton is renovating the Grange Kitchen. Which again raises some questions: Aren't they all the same kitchen? Last time I was walking through the ground floor kitchen they looked like all the same kitchen? Maybe the term 'renovating the kitchen' is code for a good old fashioned ass kicking session!! I hope Cheong is dishing it out "Miyage" style!

They re open for the Truffle Dinner on the 7th August which is nice for them, wines from Romney Park (Balhannah, SA) and $299 for food and booze!

If you know other wise drop a comment!

Giles

Monday, July 27, 2009

Ready, Aim, Fire!! Lethlean hits the mark.

The flagship restaurant at the Hilton Hotel Adelaide has been reviewed by John Lethlean of The Australian newspaper... Read it...
Saturdays Review insert..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839287-14440,00.html
Follow up article this morning..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839593-14440,00.html

Comment:
Do not get me started about the Hilton Adelaide. Lets keep the food out of it for the moment.
It certainly is controversial!
I love it!
This review has been whipped up into a frenzy by parochial radio jocks and one eyed shlop journo's trawling the net. I know that Adelaide restaurants do not receive the critical review that all eateries jostling for your dollar should! If I had clout I would focus my attack on the inadequate skills of a local reviewer (who is paid by the very same Murdoch!) Mr. Tony Love of The Advertiser. His easy going, friendly, she'll be right story telling has left many Adelaide Restaurants untouched when clearly there were problems a foot. A good rocket under your ass can only be good in such situations - He (Cheong Liew) should react and get moving - either out of the Hilton and away from their protection or push them (Hilton) to create something worthy.

I remember about 5 years ago the same was written about Magil Estate Restaurant in The Australian (not Lethlean), although the head chef was not as notable as Mr. Liew there was significant reputation on the line and the review was scathing. Very little was said in the Adelaide media then, which reflects badly once again on our local print and radio. Why this time - and why Cheong, not Mr. Bryant? Through all this it must be said that Cheong is not Executive Chef - another celebrity chef Mr. Simon Bryant is in that most important position. The responsibility for every plate of food lies with him, and I assume very gingerly that Bryant was overseeing Mr. Lethlean's meals. Bad luck for Lethlean that Bryant wasn't shooting a self promoting romp with another of the states self inflated food celebrities Ms. Beer!! Other examples are The Wine Underground, Blakes Restaurant, Chloe's, Norton Summit, D'Arry's Verandah, Bridgewater Mill etc. They all receive unequivocal praise, without a hint of critical review. Maybe the review sections of Adelaide's media should be titled "What I ate on the weekend".

Giles

ps. I bet you that the Hilton won't be spending any money on their Restaurant's any time soon!

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Tom Ka Gai / Thai Chicken & Coconut Milk Soup - Video Recipe


Subscribe to thesculleryblog video recipes on itunes copy & paste this link into itunes... http://thesculleryblog.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=rss

In itunes go to: "Advanced">"Subscribe to Podcast..."> "Paste link..."Ok!

Giles

Friday, July 3, 2009

Jerusalem Sheshkabab House - Review



Falafel is a mystery, an enigma where all the components are clear yet the resultant form can be as the changing weather is torrid and nasty or light and fluffy. Jerusalem Sheshkabab House has been serving tremendous Falafels since 1972. They are lightly textured inside and encased by a crunchy crust, UFO shaped and so consistent it is like they are cloned from a perfect specimen taken from the ancient city itself. Devotees of this quirky restaurant know it is consistent but this is not the main reason for its long lived success. Like the Falafel so many aspects of Jerusalem contribute to the enticing, invigorating experience. Owner Michael Merhi informs me after re acquainting ourselves that his father Steve started the small business back when the western world was learning to love its multicultural cuisine, I suspect Adelaide was barely coming to grips with it even then. My earliest memories of the dimly lit, authentic venue is the low slung fabric ceiling that I could almost touch with my outstretched hand and now I have to tilt my head to miss. First time patrons are instant fans of Jerusalem, amazed that the food is always served quickly, cheaply and without fuss and sometimes with gruff. Enter on a Saturday evening and you might struggle to find an empty table, barter and plead a little and you will be rewarded. BYO is the cheapest in the city ($1.50) and on a busy night remember a bottle opener – cos’ you could go thirsty. A tribute to the efficiency and style of the venue is that no one ever stays as long as they initially intended. The food arrives before you can check for extra bread, Michael knows there is money to be made as tables turn over several times a night. Another ingredient in the Jerusalem mix is the short menu with highlights like Hummus $7.50 and Babaganoush $8, both which bare the signs of a swiftly ladled spoon smoothing them underneath the spice and oil. There are plates of Tahini $6.50, Yoghurt $6.50 (and cucumber) and Tabouli $7.50 salads that are mostly fresh but can vary. My pick is always the cooling Yoghurt salad. Warm quarters of flat bread are served in a retro plastic basket, take note it is not a sin to run out of bread before accompanying dishes but it is on the contrary. Further down the menu are favourites like flattened thumbs of Lamb Kafta $13 in spicy yoghurt sauce, florets of Cauliflower $10 are on offer with the same sauce but no one seems to mind. Upstairs there is a function room available for banquets, and they wave the BYO fee and throw in a belly dance!
Heated political debate, artistic turmoil, free thinking socialism, right winged conservatism all squeeze and jostle for position in the glossy red booths. As if on queue the eternal struggle reappears as guests eye off a lonely falafel, both sides stake their claim, bread poised at the ready to scoop up the pillow of chick peas, herbs and spice and douse it in forgotten dip. Such conflicts can be resolved with more diplomatic Hummus and no one leaves empty or dissatisfied. Jerusalem Coffee $3 and Baclava $3 is one of the final ingredients to the success of Jerusalem Restaurant, a little aromatic punch reinforced by the honey spiced pastry. Each time I return to Jerusalem my faith is reaffirmed by their authentic Middle Eastern food, charming interior with loads of character, cheap, fast, and consistent yet still the mystery remains intact.
Giles