Charlies' Shack - Review

Charlie’s Shack should be on the ‘to do’ list of the Adelaide food lover. It has all the qualities you might find in a truly authentic Vietnamese food outlet. It’s proximity to the Central Markets and their limited storage space lends itself to having fresh ingredients all the time. It truly is a shack! It is possible that Charlie’s Shack is due to be shut down at any time, let’s hope the inspector is a fan. Most of the time you barely get a smile when you arrive and I often feel as though I am interrupting their nightly comedy sitcom by ordering. ‘Grandma’ does all the delivering of orders, and she gets busy when the place fills up with 7 people in the tiny space. I order the Special Dumpling Soup ($6.50), Regular Beef Pho ($7) and some Cold Rolls ($4.50) for the two of us. You have to clamber over recent deliveries to order and scour the fridge for a cold drink beside the beef mince, herbs, vegetables and Chinese Milk products. It is all highly risky practise, but I love, love, love it! Charlies’ Pho is a hearty serve with plenty of beef slices and noodle to fill your boots, the dumplings are glutinous and textured inside with a hint of spice. The cold rolls are fresh with prawn, chicken and mint, and I always double dip into the amazing sauce. You have to!
Pho is the most basic of food. It is an aromatic stock served with fresh stir fried beef and vegetables, throw in some noodles and you have Vietnam’s most favoured dish. There are no big secrets involved, just the quick fresh approach that makes this dish so popular. If you get a fresh batch the stock it is sometimes a little weak – show up later that day or a few days later when the batch has reduced and the flavour intensified to really awesome heights. Don’t just try it once. Try it three to four times a week to really appreciate it.
The menu’s are sticky, the chopsticks communal and the sauce bottles un-named, you rarely have to use them as you are served some fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts, lemon wedge and sliced chilli as a fresh garnish. I always go for a bit of chillied vinegar – it moves whatever you might have thought un-movable!
Charlies does not serve alcohol which is a reasonable proposal – I would love a BYO policy but you can’t have it all when the food is so cheap and so very delicious. This place is a shining beacon of fast fresh food – not a processed patty, sesame seed bun or rubber cheese slices in sight. I wish these sorts of restaurants were everywhere because we would all be thin and fabulous, instead of fat and horrible!
Everything is available takeaway, and I would recommend taking some Cold rolls home if you need to be reminded of the genius.
But please do not whinge to me when it all comes out in a hurry. No you’re not sick! It is just that you’re not quite ready for all that salty, spicy liquid just yet. Keep going and you’ll get the Charlie’s Shack knack.

Giles

Note:

I know I have done a spot review of Charlies before but it is good!

The Most of Moseley Square, Glenelg - Review

For most of us the luxury of eating out is not taken for granted, we choose our venue and we booked in advance, we show up on time and we enjoy ourselves.
When summer becomes stupidly hot all you crave is the cool of the beach and a lemon gelato. Priorities quickly change to your umbrella, towel, water, hat, 30+ and tennis ball – but what about food. It is easy to realise why some of the venues on Moseley Square, Glenelg are to be avoided like the plague. It’s not just because of the plague however you might meet your unfortunate end at the hands of ill treated meat or a clumsy bouncer with a head full of nothing.
Here are some ice cold tips for Glenelg Café eating…

The Dublin Hotel.

This is one of those plagued venues, but if you must seek out the Blue Cheese Pizza with Fig, Rocket and Caramelised Onion $16. It may keep you going just long enough till you see the price of a pint!! Other than that there is very little going for this place, except for a sore neck as you are glued to one of hundreds of TV’s.
Gringo’s Mexican Cantina.
I used to want to work there, now I only wish to drink there: Sangria at $14.50 for a ½ Litre or $20 for the full Carafe is the best way to really give your sun stroke a kick along. If you must eat the Nacho’s are as you would expect – but please request more heat. Nacho’s Small $17.00, Large $20.50.
Mamma Carmela Café Pizzeria Est 1974.
There has been a Café in this spot as long as many could remember and Mama’s has had the best of it in these more cosmopolitan times. They recently shut for what seemed an exceedingly long time for a paint job. Never get a chef to do a painter’s job. Other than a fresh coat of paint nothing much has changed, and for this I am truly grateful. They do what they do without fuss or excess. My pick for value for money is the Calzone Rustico, pizza pastry filled with mozzarella, salami, ham, olives, capsicum, mushrooms, topped with bolognaise sauce. $16 “Bargain!” Maybe you could wash some dishes for a glass of Red?
Crema on Jetty.
Crema on Jetty has replaced the very popular Café Miramare`, not much of the décor has changed and the wood fired pizza oven remains. This list of pizza is the best value at Moseley Square. My pick is the Goats Cheese, Capsicum, shaved ham and fresh basil. 9” $16.50 12” $19.50.

Lungomare Cafe.
I am not sure why this place stays open, perhaps there is someone who mysteriously opens it up every day – Cos’ there are never any customers in there to warrant it.
Europa at the Bay.
Europa draws their line in the sand with the price tag, clearly keeping the smelly, sweaty and sunburnt well away. Much the same tactic as the Good Life Pizza up the street – Scary Price tactics! The Crab Linguine is almost worth the extra coin, and the specials do change contrary to popular belief.
Makis BBQ Eating & Takeaway.

‘Makis’ passes the $20 dollar challenge every time, with enough coin left over for a longneck. The scintillating social commentary is free!

Poor attendance resulting from poor choices is the cancer of Moseley Square. The new additions such as Drift Café and a nameless Chinese Restaurant suffer from this sameness. Venues such as these dumb it down too often to “please” customers and suffer a bland and inevitable fate, where as the savvy punter wants something new and exciting, let Mama Carmela’s do the sameness – they know what they are doing.

Giles

Minted Lamb and Noodle Soup - Recipe

This soup is another hybrid from a weekly magazine that comes out monthly.... uuhh??
My partner usually makes it and it rarely lasts long as it is scoffed, then we glut around food drunk from to much minty lamb soup goodness.

100g of Vermicelli Noodles
20ml Vegetable oil
500gm Lamb strap or fillet slide diagonally across the fibre.
1 teaspoon of Sambal Oelek, asian style minced chilli. This depends on your pain threshold!
4 stalks of rough chopped lemongrass - diagonally so it holds together whilst cooking.
2 tablespn grated fresh ginger.
4 cloves of fresh crushed garlic.
40-50ml of fish sauce.
1500ml of chix stock, pre heated.
1 tablespn caster sugar.
500gm Asparagus stalks, sliced into batons (4-6cm long)
1/2 cup of fresh, chopped, rinsed, coriander.
1/3 cup of fresh, chopped, rinsed, mint.
4 medium tomatoes, seeded and sliced.
8 Spring onion stalks, trimmed and sliced diagonally.

Directions.
Place noodles in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water for 20mins and then drain.
Heat half of the oil in a large heavy based pot until really hot (not smoking), add lamb in small batches and remove when brown.
Heat remaining oil in same pot, add the chilli, lemongrass, ginger and garlic, cook until fragrant. ( I am not sure when that is cos' most of that gear is all ready pretty smelly)
Add the stock, fish sauce and sugar, bring to the boil. Add the asparagus, return to a simmer for a minute. Toss in the herbs, spring onions, tomatoes, noodles, lamb (but not the lamb juice while it has been waiting). Return to a simmer and serve.


This dish like most Asian cooking is mostly preparation and little cooking, be patient with the prep get it all sorted before you fire up a cooktop and your soup will be fresh and cleansing.

Giles

Chilli Chutney Recipe

This recipe is constantly changing and forever receiving the little tweak. Each summer I break it out when the capsicum are really cheap and chillis are every where. This is superb with crisp bread and cheese, cheddar is best but don't let me tell you what to eat with it.
Apologies for the mixed measurements, it is a pet hate of mine but you can work with it.

Alinka's Chilli sauce / Dad's Chilli Mole` / Giles' Chilli Chutney!
1kg Red Capsicum diced.
300-400gms of Chilli's, deseeded depending on their heat , diced.
1 large Granny Smitch apple, peeled and diced.
150mL Heinz tomato sauce.
50mL White Vinegar (Spiced is good)
150ml of vegetable oil.
2 tablespn of sugar. approx 40gms
Salt to taste - usually 3 teaspoons.

In a solid based pot heat oil to just above low heat, add the Caps, Chilli and Apple and soften until the skins of the caps start to remove. Add remaining liquid and sugar, simmer until well combined and reduced slightly. Remove a third of the mixture, blitz with hand held blender, add back the third and combine with a potato masher. Season with salt to taste.
Heat clean jars half filled with warm water in the microwave for five minutes on high, toss the water and add the hot Chutney, allow to cool for five minutes and then screw on lid and allow to cool completely. Refrigerate until use. They should keep for at least a month.
It is usually to tasty to leave - beats the pants off Vegemite'n'toast!

OH&S Note: Please wash your hands with soap after handling the flesh of chillis - and do not rub your eyes or touch your or anyone else's junk!!!

Giles

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar - Review

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar is a new concept in dining for Adelaide it offers a unique experience. However, the idea of Sparrow is not new. This style of venue all ready has a strong following in Melbourne in particular Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons. (Read TheSculleryBlog - GA&S Review) The similarities are striking between the two venues although Adelaide once again the poorer cousin suffers from interior compromises. Sparrow offer a sharper edge to the humble Mediterranean Cafe experience. I can only assume they see the potential in a more intrepid clientele that wishes to trade in their Cafe up O’Connell. We booked a table late in the evening to avoid the recent heat, arriving a little early we took advantage of the bar surrounding the main service area. The action around the wood fired pizza still present from past ventures at 10 O’Connell has been well utilised, and is now the source of much attention for waiting punters or those content to dine at the bar. There are many choices to start with on the menu including cured meats from the specialised cabinet and slicer which draws you near on entry. We chose to sample some Gorgonzola Arancini($3.50 each), Blood Sausage with Cauliflower and Sauternes($9) and the cute sounding Duck doughnut with porcini salt($3.50 each). These were shared with beer while we guessed what pizza the busy chef was preparing in front of us. Fun for some – but when there are four types of cheese on one pizza I think everyone wins. The Arancini was enticing enough to inspire a mains choice of Gorgonzola Gnocchi (entree $15.90). Blood sausage was an interesting lesson in texture although not lost on all present perhaps not as well taught as possible, all three components of the dish were the same consistency and didn’t define one over the other. The duck doughnut was an aromatic parcel that I am sure would have blown me away with a bold glass of white with enough power to match the tender flesh with the earthy porcini salt. I was seriously enjoying the early stages of the evening at Sparrow and reluctantly took a seat at a marble topped table. My learned wine loving accomplice chose wisely from a smart mix of wines, he insisted it breathe while we ate at the bar – You might seem like a tosser but it’s well worth it. Sparrow is not a small venue and even a steady night will mean the staff cover long distances to get the bare minimum achieved. At times the staffed looked windswept on their long journey from the bar to the courtyard and raised terrace overlooking the wilting parklands. To their credit our mains arrived simultaneously and I marvelled at the dish of Braised pork tails ($26.50), I was having second thoughts. The meat, gelatinous skin and fat was tender and rich but there was not enough and I was left hungry and ogling the gnocchi and pizza which were both better choices than the tail. Margarita Pizza ($17.90) was fresh with super sweet tomato sauce and crispy base, very nice. The Gnocchi still carried some weight, unusual for what I assumed to be fresh from the kitchen, nevertheless the gorgonzola was right on measure again very nice. The fourth dish tasted was the special wood grilled snapper with a salsa verde($29), the fish was cooked splendidly but the salsa sparked discussion over the contents of ‘a perfect salsa verde’? The reminiscence would’ve continued if we had not moved onto desert of Catalan Cream ($9) and Churros with gianduja chocolate ($8.50). The cream was rich and superbly textured and the Churros were adequate. The efforts of Sparrow are certainly not wasted as it is an emerging venue, but it will take an effort to maintain this standard of commitment to keeping an edge on more original venues.

Giles

Note:
If this review leaves you undecided on whether to go to Sparrow or not it has done it's job. I feel the same way- Perhaps I will go back to Sparrow K&B not sit at a table and rewrite this little footnote?

Archies Restaurant - Review.

Archies has labelled itself as Modern Australian meets Mediterranean, this will hopefully guide them through some of the hazy areas of modern cuisine. Like fashion, gastronomic trends are often steered off course by some industry leaders when the industry looks to them for inspiration. Archies is planning a much safer journey through choppy waters, which is a wise move for a new business in a fickle industry. The cuisine did not conform to current fashionable trends in food. There was no micro herb garnish, no foam, air or soil!

Starting with a glass of sparkling pinot noir, my head tilted as our glasses were topped with strawberry and were poured to max volume. Although a happy notion it was the start of some interesting moves by Archies, the retro nature of the fruit rimmed drink signposted an experience of past styles and loyal choices. An entree special of Oyster’s Zingara involved King Island brie, pine nuts and basil served individually atop a shot glass. Sadly the brie had lost all of its creamy allure and was stuck fast to the vertical shell but the pine nut offered an earthy boost to the chewy mouthful. Another sampled entree was handmade Pappardelle Milando pasta that had a finely textured rose` sauce that was good enough to carry the dish by itself. A tapas selection included amongst others, Potato and Zucchini fritters that were light with good crispness served with smooth aioli. The Tapas section to the menu does not really suit the style of Archies and should be selectively absorbed into the entree list. The list of mains is dominated by selections of lamb, pork, and fish. The main dishes sampled followed basic rules of protein as the focus of flavour and the starch or carbohydrate and vegetables as second string, the presentation reflected this attitude. The saucing of the dry spiced lamb cutlets was luscious and hails from bistros of yester year, a real treat that will be a signature of Archies. The Lamb was potently spiced but sliced delicately and the texture was delightful, it paired terrifically with the sauce. The pan juice drizzled on the cooked blackened Pork roulade is a more rustic approach. The roulade of leek glued with tomato based sauce provides a little too much spicy heat to compliment the blackened pork. The skill of the Chef was on show with both these well sized and terrifically cooked dishes.

Our fill in maitre d’ was talented but not receiving sufficient support from fairly incompetent others’. They made basic errors in a restaurant that is attempting service close to silver, but currently tarnished. Staff should trust in their skill, as their unease at times was visible. Desserts sampled were safe choices of Lemon and Chocolate layered Brulee and a Mille-feuille (lots of pastry layers) of berries and mascarpone cream. Both were thoroughly enjoyed, the rich intense thickness of chocolate texture against the brulee was the brick wall to succinctly finish any meal. The kitchen seemed very calm and skilfully served all meals without error although a more measured hand on spice would create more allure to a dish and have punters wanting more of Archies. Credit must be given to Archies for their courage in being bold in the flavour of their dishes, no one will leave wondering but get there before the menu changes after its short cycle. The dishes are tried and tested classics from regions well suited to the South Australian dining set. The spartan interior space reflects the iconic branding of Archies, and with a little polish it will shine.

Giles