Archies Restaurant - Review.

Archies has labelled itself as Modern Australian meets Mediterranean, this will hopefully guide them through some of the hazy areas of modern cuisine. Like fashion, gastronomic trends are often steered off course by some industry leaders when the industry looks to them for inspiration. Archies is planning a much safer journey through choppy waters, which is a wise move for a new business in a fickle industry. The cuisine did not conform to current fashionable trends in food. There was no micro herb garnish, no foam, air or soil!

Starting with a glass of sparkling pinot noir, my head tilted as our glasses were topped with strawberry and were poured to max volume. Although a happy notion it was the start of some interesting moves by Archies, the retro nature of the fruit rimmed drink signposted an experience of past styles and loyal choices. An entree special of Oyster’s Zingara involved King Island brie, pine nuts and basil served individually atop a shot glass. Sadly the brie had lost all of its creamy allure and was stuck fast to the vertical shell but the pine nut offered an earthy boost to the chewy mouthful. Another sampled entree was handmade Pappardelle Milando pasta that had a finely textured rose` sauce that was good enough to carry the dish by itself. A tapas selection included amongst others, Potato and Zucchini fritters that were light with good crispness served with smooth aioli. The Tapas section to the menu does not really suit the style of Archies and should be selectively absorbed into the entree list. The list of mains is dominated by selections of lamb, pork, and fish. The main dishes sampled followed basic rules of protein as the focus of flavour and the starch or carbohydrate and vegetables as second string, the presentation reflected this attitude. The saucing of the dry spiced lamb cutlets was luscious and hails from bistros of yester year, a real treat that will be a signature of Archies. The Lamb was potently spiced but sliced delicately and the texture was delightful, it paired terrifically with the sauce. The pan juice drizzled on the cooked blackened Pork roulade is a more rustic approach. The roulade of leek glued with tomato based sauce provides a little too much spicy heat to compliment the blackened pork. The skill of the Chef was on show with both these well sized and terrifically cooked dishes.

Our fill in maitre d’ was talented but not receiving sufficient support from fairly incompetent others’. They made basic errors in a restaurant that is attempting service close to silver, but currently tarnished. Staff should trust in their skill, as their unease at times was visible. Desserts sampled were safe choices of Lemon and Chocolate layered Brulee and a Mille-feuille (lots of pastry layers) of berries and mascarpone cream. Both were thoroughly enjoyed, the rich intense thickness of chocolate texture against the brulee was the brick wall to succinctly finish any meal. The kitchen seemed very calm and skilfully served all meals without error although a more measured hand on spice would create more allure to a dish and have punters wanting more of Archies. Credit must be given to Archies for their courage in being bold in the flavour of their dishes, no one will leave wondering but get there before the menu changes after its short cycle. The dishes are tried and tested classics from regions well suited to the South Australian dining set. The spartan interior space reflects the iconic branding of Archies, and with a little polish it will shine.

Giles