A Refreshing Mantra - Interview with Head Chef Dioni Pike

Picture above taken from the July '09 Delicious Magazine.

I was once much more influenced by the opinions of men merely through my lack of confidence in chatting socially with women, but now as I am interviewing a successful female chef I am thankful of my progression in life. She has achieved much in the short time since her entry into the industry yet still considers her future journey as equally valid as the one preceding her. Dioni Pike began her apprenticeship with a Welsh Pastry Chef who didn’t treat her with much kindness, I propose this hardened Welsh tuition may have shaped Dioni into something of a driven professional. I have been Dioni’s junior colleague but the years have seen us diverge in careers yet none of her direction has been diverted by flippant fantasies as mine.
We enjoyed a beer at the Wheatsheaf Hotel on George St. and discussed where the next venue would be for Dioni’s next endeavour. The answer was clear: Mantra, 36 King William Rd Goodwood. Why? Well it seems Ms. Pike not only appreciates the change from a fast pace restaurant to the more relaxed dining but the food focus changing from traditional rustic flavours to a more refined wine oriented dining experience at Mantra.
Being very literally between jobs on her last day at Panacea, (72-74 Halifax St. City) I was privy to some information you would only achieve in an interview – funny that.
My vested interest is in dining out so I asked about Dioni’s first real dining out experience. “Eighteen years go – Phillippa and Donovan Cooke, a husband and wife team, we had lunch at Luxe and Est Est Este for dinner which is now Circa, I had the cookbook and was pretty excited. First time of spending copious amounts of money but understanding why I spent that money”. Dioni highlighted the service being so focussed that the wine selection was made prior to being seated and it was decanted upon selection so that it had time to breathe. She remembers being so greatly educated by the experienced it stuck with her as a highlight. More recently was a casual Friday lunch at the Bridgy Mill, that’s the spirit!
Ms Pike is a fan of the States quality produce, so I asked her what her favourite product of the moment is, the one she just had to have? “... (Short pause)..... Cheese, I love cheese” Her current flavour fav is the wonderful mix of quality Ale with Cheese, namely a Moo Brew Dark ale.
We spoke briefly about getting in front of the camera as is the common theme with successful Chef’s, but Dioni has already done her time on the frontier show AM Adelaide. Dioni confessed she is actually quite shy and did not revel in the situation. She sees herself being more likely to take on apprentices or have a role teaching in the industry. She is very well place to do so having begun her apprenticeship as a pastry and all the inherent difficulties with mastering flour and yeast. “I find pastry tougher than cooking, cos’ with cooking you keep tasting until you have the right flavour, yet pastry is so precise especially yeast work... it’s so more complex. Yet cooking has the pressure of service”
Inspiration comes to her in the simple things like eating a fresh picked strawberry on a warm day, she enjoys this so much better than higher end foods like foie gras etc. This mentality has suited Dioni at Panacea with the more rustic meals being what she was cooking for herself at the time and she was so pleased when it transferred to the restaurant so successfully.
Dioni is now enjoying her confidence in the kitchen, but it did not come easy though. It requires “massive drive to want to do it, especially when you start out, it’s extremely tough and there’s lots to learn, and dealing with the pressure... Now the busier the better, a lot more fun – the adrenalin kicks in, you are confident in what you are doing. There is nothing better than doing an amazing service.”
“...You are head down bum up... It is a select few that can deal with the pressure”
“Prioritising and sacrificing a lot of your social life, I have always lived opposite to the average person... Most chefs at my age are heading away from the industry, but I feel I have barely tipped the iceberg” Dioni is getting motivated about creating and trying new things. She also mentions her limited family has meant her sacrifices have been made easier. But with a warning you need to have a well balanced lifestyle, else it can be very, very tough. This lifestyle can rapidly take its toll, heavy drinking, smoking (surprisingly –when taste matters), fatigue. The “knock off drink” can often descend into heavy Bourdain style drinking session. Although not immune to these crazy sessions Dioni prefers to use her powers for good like restoring furniture or learning to play the guitar – which is not going well. I know a power chord can go a long way.
Her home life still involves cooking and Thai food is coming first for top cuisine followed closely by French, but she admits it tends to be the opposite of what she is cooking at work. She is enthused about the opportunity presenting itself at Mantra, 1st November. She also extolled the virtues and passion of her soon to be boss Ben Warren – a multi talented restaurateur who wears many hats, least of which is music.
Dioni has her head well and truly fixed and she commands respect with her presence and calm speech. She could well be a role model for all females considering a career in the industry, how to succeed with passion, pride and strength of character.
Her future goals do include a restaurant in McLaren Vale’s with a relaxed dining atmosphere using the best produce the region has to offer, I implored Dioni to let me know immediately it is open.
The best indication of Dioni Pike’s passion is that cooking is her hobby.

Giles

Leo's Lunchtime!

My mate Leo is an upwardly mobile high powered sales exec. for a company that will remain nameless, unless they wish to sponsor thesculleryblog to eat out more often - HINT. Leo finds some great places to lunch out! Dine with him at your peril, you might just witness the fitness of this corporate predator!

Thahn Long is a popular lunchtime stop for the locals on Hanson Rd and travelling workers in the area. It epitomises everything that is good about Vietnamese food - Fresh, Fast, Tasty and Cheap! A chicken roll will set you back about $3.50 and it packs the punch of fresh chilli, herbs and sauce that is apparently made on site! Leo could not confirm or deny this information.

The small rice packs are ideal take away lunch time eats, simple and so effective. You may have guessed cash only. Remember the price?!

Wok'n'Noodle, a recent addition to the concrete consumer hub of Gepps Cross - You might come to look for a poorly designed piece of furniture and stay for the Pho`. You would know thesculleryblog loves a good Pho`and this clean little venue is a great spot for the soup of choice!

$7.50 a bowl with plenty of Beef and Noodles it might just get you through to 5 without having to reach for a cold roll!

Leo hasn't become the high flying white collar without saving some pennies along the way - and this is the best way to fight the economic downturn. Leo recommends "keeping it real, and to cut the crap" he speaks the local lingo, and has the skills to pay the bills!

Giles

The Brunswick - Review

The world has its way of telling you something, but how do you tell a chef to pay attention to the details when they are working split shifts 6 days a week in a tiny pub kitchen. The Brunswick had been on my list of pubs to eat at since they removed the corrugated verandah from the saloon bar. So a mild Wednesday evening in August comes around and the city pub meal seems very enticing.
I step into a neatly organised saloon bar no longer resembling the themed farmhouse of years past, the fashionable interior highlighted with antique furniture and homogenous art. The classic features have been effectively highlighted, like the floorboards, terrazzo bar frontage and the pressed metal verandah ceiling.
The pub menu is a much pondered subject... Does a pub take stance and say no to gastronomic influences and continue with ‘Roast of the day’ and ‘Seafood baskets’? I am recently inclined to think that the food and the decor should match, such as a restaurant. The short walk through the front bar to the saloon and around a delightful seated area to the dining room brings the decor to just on level with a reasonable restaurant. The menu reads well with some interesting inclusions and some pub standards. Note no beef or veal schnitzel, big call!
We are interested in a Brunswick Platter ($22.9) on the short starters list, it arrives very promptly which I would have expected on a quiet evening. It held a few surprises for the table, which suited the Steam Exchange Stout we were sampling off tap. Oysters and stout, poached star anise pears and stout, Grilled chorizo and anything! These were really good combinations to start a meal, my thoughts in particular were racing, beer included of course! The specials list had some great options which put the hard decision with our table and we required more Stout and the wine list. A bottle of fairly generic ‘Gamekeepers’ Shiraz Grenache 07 was requested and an 08 was delivered. Do I have grounds for complaint? Oh well, it was just the ticket for the diverse range of meals ordered. I attacked a grilled Pork Cutlet ($22.9) with Cheese tart and beans with a fig glaze I forget those details as the glaze and tart had chilled significantly since its preparation waiting for its porcine keystone. My immediately adjacent diner had ordered from the specials, Eye Fillet ($22.9) with a mash, wild mushrooms and a glaze the details are again hazy as the mash and the sauce were heading south in degrees. It was cooked correctly as was the pork and both were very tender serves. On hearing the ‘chilled’ news I whip round the table with queries of “Cold?”. The responses were mixed, the Stuffed Crispy Skin Chicken Breast ($23.9) with roast capsicum coulis arrived hot but its accompanying risotto tower was chilled at its base and warm elsewhere. The chicken was stuffed with an under seasoned mix of spinach, ricotta and pine nuts. The Red Curried Snapper ($22.9) from the specials was suitably heated although there were mumblings of the curry being to overpowering, I would contest that Red Curry is specifically formulated to be overpowering. The Chicken Schnitzel ($16.5) is offered with lemon, it appeared to be standard Pub Schnitzel effort but the crumb seemed to have received some special treatment I could not pick, but well worth the price tag. I didn’t really care if the chips were cold against the plate, as there is a distinct line in the sand when it comes to serving a dish with a specific sauce and offering deep fried beds of chips to lay your crumbed protein upon. The allowances given to the pub oriented meals are justified, as for the more refined dishes I would reference the restaurant quality decor and question why the kitchen procedure does not match.
On this evening the plates were cold, otherwise the meals would’ve impressed. The Brunswick Hotel kitchen has done almost everything right, smart menu with diverse choice to coax the blinkered diner away from the TAB. The world is cold and harsh sometimes even on a mild August evening.

Giles

Footnote: Rip it Up Mag has a bad habit of trimming the odd sentence or stanza from the printed reviews. So it is best to get the full review here....

Maintain your rage!

The evil has mad its insidious move toward the green grocer and we must fight - We are human beings goddamit!!

Read the bad news on my least enjoyed news site...

Woolworths - "I'm as mad as hell and I'm not going to take this anymore!"

Giles

Cucumber Crime - What!?!

Well it is finally started for real here in South Australia.... Vegetable theft is common in Queensland and Northern NSW where vegetables seem to grow in a matter of days, but it has not been reported in S.A. on such a large scale. This has got me worried for all those people who buy veg. from the back of a car or a so called grower perhaps in a "Sunday Market"...

Check out the ABC story...

http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/08/12/2653384.htm

"Thanks to the ABC for not knowing that I've used their photo yet.... And if anyone has seen these cucumbers - I would give them a good wash and then perhaps make some nice raita to go with your Lamb Rogan Josh - Triffic!"

Even though these cucumbers that were stolen were ready for picking and some apparently were bagged and ready for sale the issue raises some interesting issues. If a thief slices open a plastic covered grow house that has been sprayed that very day with a pesticide or worse, and proceed to rip off vegetables nearing sale time and back up to the car to a boot sale, some poor shmoe is going to encounter some nasty chemicals.
Think about it: Growers know what they're doing, grocers know what they're doing, Thieves like to think they can get in on the act.

Giles

Tuesday Dinner - 2001 Tart Odyssey!!

Dinner on Tuesday evening at ours is always an interesting one, I am finally recovered from the weekends hi jinx and well and truly into the week. Pays in the bank and I feel the need to cook.

So here is what I cooked....

Gorgonzola, Leek and Chicken Tart with Rocket, Walnut and Pear Salad.

I am scared of pastry, mainly because I am never prepared and never willing to research - it is always off the cuff. Not puff! Like Stanley Kubrick's Ape man in the kitchen....Fire - Hot. Pastry - Hard! Burnt pastry - too hot! Urgh! oohh ahh! ahhh! aaaaahhhhhh!
Thankfully this time I experienced some success, the pastry was blind baked sufficiently to hold up through the cooking of the tart.

What I did:

Saute off three well washed and sliced leeks in some butter and oil, try and get up some colour on the leeks. Throw in some diced thigh, season with salt and pepper and loads of fresh thyme. You can add a dash of stock to de-glaze the pan, only if you want to keep it really moist and rich, but make sure you drain off any excess or cook it out. Turn the heat off before the chicken cooks through. Allow to cool.

Blind bake your shortcrust tart bases in small greased ramekin bowls, I cut the pastry base round first and then the outer rim with a long rectangle looped up. I pressed it down into the base and pierced the pastry. I blind baked them on about 180degC for at least 20-25 minutes or until I could see and feel the base starting to dry out. I should off turned off the fan as the rim was starting to brown up seriously! Oh well... ooohh ahhh ahahh ahh! I had seven eggs in a bowl with 80mls of cream (I had one egg per tart plus one for good fun) Whisked up to completely combined. Once the tarts were baked and the chicken and leek cool I sliced the Gorgonzola into "Meaty Chunks" and put one in the base of the tart and one on the top of the combined egg and cream mix with leek and chicken. This is seasoned before spooning into tarts. At this stage I am unsure of how long to cook it so I throw caution to the wind and try 15 mins on full noise. Once again the oven fan is taking its toll on my crust! AEEEEHHHHHH!!! Another 5 and a short rest in a oven (off) with the door ajar. My knife comes out clean so we're away.

Some rocket, walnuts, sliced bosh pear and a little vinaigrette with red wine vinegar, Pendleton lemon pressed oil and some good ole Dijon.
Magic - The first ooozing of Gorgonzola was my golden star of approval. This is certainly one to work on to get it to a cranking recipe, please give it a crack and let me know how it goes!!

Giles

My Fair Farina - Quick Bite Review

Farina Kitchen Bar was our choice for a quick Saturday evening bite before hitting the town with a leave pass from the 2month old Son care of Nanna. We slipped in very early to beat any rush and catch the Chefs before they are flooded with their first rush of orders. We sipped on some German made Pilsner and looked down a menu that is highlighted by interesting use of ingredients - The would make any Foodie Happy! But for not so intrepid eaters it is a little confronting as they are limited to a few choices as they shy away from new experiences or old ideas of how things taste. I am finding the choices so enticing I would like to try several, choices made tougher by a limited selection of Wines by the glass. So with my choice of wine driving the dinner choice I move toward a Scorpo Chardonnay 06 I think, this puts me in line for the Rabbit Leg or Confit Duck. I could have really gone to Foodie town with Lambs Brain Ravioli with garlic, entree size only - Lambs really aren't that smart! I decide with my large brain (ha!) to have the Braised Duck. The wine arrived near frozen and had nothing of the richness I was after - thankfully It warmed up significantly in my palms before my duck arrives... The instant pungency of the game'y leg and mustard fruit that adorns this classic little dish is a welcome change form recent meals, the lentils and diced veg is knee deep in an amazingly rich and rounded jus. I am happy to see such a well crafted dish is not confused with other textures and dotted by silly little garnishes that rarely add any benefit to a dish. My partner maintained their trajectory toward the waiting pub, a pilsner and a the swimmer crab risotto. Hooray I spy fresh shucked peas - A gold Star for this kitchen! If you know the sculleryblog you will know my dislike of packet peas in a dish nearing $30 - $7.50 Counter meal Roast yeah ok. But not in a "Restaurant" Unfortunately the Rice was still a little firm and not quite finished - people will tell you that Risotto should be creamy and not stiff, but it's all for nothing if the Arborio is on the tough side of correct. Some more Crispy spuds with garlic rosemary and salt to keep the beer in check and we were gone. A lovely quiet meal in a neat venue, despite showing some unfinished bits its intention is certainly not lost on this blogger - I would happily return for more and perhaps splurge a little more. All in the name of critical reference for all those who appreciate it!Giles

Argo Hellenic Cafe Restaurant - Review

I have a vivid imagination and could quite easily describe my vision of a smart Greek eatery on the main drag of the up’n’up Port. Long wide dark timber floors greet you as you push the small heritage shopfront door into a lengthy dining room. An olive skinned person smiles as they usher you to a table on the long softly textured wall which hangs tasteful vistas of the Aegean or Mykonos. The lights teeter between eye level and head high as they warmly comfort your eye toward crisp paper below polished, casually set cutlery and sturdy glassware. Sigh!
I am expectant of some clean Greek flavours with hearty meat options, this is mostly my optimism kicking in as the menu is light on adjectives. The bare minimum is committed to enticing us into our choices, although I know the potential of each of the Mezede and Entree. If all goes well our wallets could get away with a sneaky Greek feast! The dips of our choice were good, pita warm and servings enough to keep you interested yet contented. The Skordalia, potato garlic dip was smooth and powerful. The litmus test of any Greek Restaurant the Tzatziki was thick and crisply flavoured with correct pungency. A new experience for our table was the Kopanisti, a Creamy fetta laden with olive and chilli. So simple and effective. A small stack of handmade Dolmades, seasoned rice filled vine leaves and the Loukaniko Cyprus, Grilled Cyprus Sausage were both heat and serve options and survived the journey. The pickled Octopus, Octapodi Xidato was a let down to our start, lacking any pickled quality at all. I am more confident now that we have overcome the initial shock of our arrival to Hellenic Argo. It was a little different to what I’d imagined. Our host has a very awkward way of interacting and he seems to be alone tonight in his role as maitre d’, head waiter and barman. There is only one Indian chef (?) and no grandma’s to be seen. The dining room is extremely harshly lit, almost equal lux with an electronics assembly line. We are seated smack in the middle of a pretty much empty dining room which was not exactly the most hospitable move, seeing as more cosy options were available.
Let’s be clear, “Rustic” food is not a magical cloak to hide your culinary sins. Rustic just happens to be the outcome of centuries old tradition unchanged by progressing trends or haughty flings. Rustic is unwavering commitment to what clearly works. The Moussaka ($16.5), layered eggplant, potato mince and cheese was neatly presented in an earthenware dish which added a lovely method of spooning out the piping hot ingredients. The lamb ($19.5) was carrying scars of a char grill with fresh volcanic rock, dusty, smoky and definitely overcooked. The reverse treatment was administered to the Quail which was taken up with management by a distressed punter nearby. Raw and near flight! Traditionally a quail should be medium with plenty of time spent on low heat to permeate the little bones and win the battle with their sinew and relent to the nibbling teeth that wait. We skipped the bird. The fact that our neighbouring diner felt so motivated to talk to the chef about his inadequately cooked dish is definitely a sign. The Braised Baby Goat pieces were still pungent and textural after many hours of heat treatment, however it was on the dry side it must be said. And the solo accompaniment of soggy spuds looked sad as they surrounded the pond of pan juice which had none of the clarity of flavour it required, it was just muddled stock, oil and cooked out herbs. Sorry Sir, Rustic has the night off. I could leave the rest of this short review blank with many readers being clear in their thoughts about what Argo Hellenic has to offer them. Others may ask: Does Argo have potential though? Sadly not in the few good signs or was it whipped into shape by the razor sharp words of an unhappy “Wharfie”. But you could see a place like this becoming popular for the wrong reasons and developing a rough and ready clientele who already know there is not much to offer so treat it thus. The totality of the evening including wine offerings seemed passable upon reflection of the bill, but some of the flavours were not as potent as I clearly remember from tremendous Greek experiences throughout our city and suburbia. If I had to scale this restaurant on some sort of numerical scale I would have to dust off some of the lower digits that rarely get used in this city.


Giles

Note: Next time you are reading the The Local "Rag" check out their numerical scaling system and its obvious inconsistencies!!

"Blessed are the cheesemakers"- Editorial

Does our fabulous state have produce awards? It seems there is an award for nearly everything, even food blogs! I am still waiting for a nomination - Anyone - Anyone?

Restaurant and Catering South Australia have released the winners of their awards in 09. See the list Here.

Giles

New Kitchen - Fluff

Let me tell you about my pride'n'joy (the kitchen!):

Benchtop: Salvage Solid Jarrah - 80X40mm Timbers

Cabinets: Createc by Fresh Kitchens - These guys need to be pushed.

Stainless Steel pieces: Delway Brass.

Window: Adelaide Security House, I am never happy with these guys, but no one else cares?!?

Appliances: Electrolux E:Line Fridge, Cooker 600mm (Elec), Gas Cooktop 900mm. Bosch Dishwasher.

Rangehood: Qasair, UV 800- 1. Oh Yeah!

Sink: SA Made Oliveri, Petite 1-1 something...

I have said many times this kitchen is like a fast car compared to the old bomb, but as you would know old bombs work and get you where you need to be - you learn to live and function with them and sometimes shine with their limted capacity. Sad? you might ask? No! I will learn to relax and control these powerful prancing horses soon and I will be braking hard and hammering it from the apex of the corners!! Slow food! Eat my dust!

Giles

Tropical Pizza "to go!" - Editorial

Recently on holiday in far north Queensland for a significant family event, I was presented with less than I bargained for...

When men get together for very impromptu gatherings involving distilled malted barley and fine Cuban Cigars they can be forgiven for ignoring sustenance. Assuming the collective mood was that this single malt and spicy smoke will get me through - No? I am often of the same opinion, enthusiasm is a very persuasive emotion. But on this occasion someones conscience got involved and rightly ordered some pizza's to make sure that a level of decorum was maintained on that evening and perhaps into the wee smalls. I was given the seeming simple task of perambulating to the condominium gate to collect the 4 large pizza's for the jovial mass. As I walked the paving through the copy, paste architecture of the resort I wondered will 4 large pizza's be enough, as I know that I myself can oft inhale half a large pizza by myself if the goings good. I imagine myself chomping hard on a 12" LP to remember the size of the international standard of "Large Pizza". I arrive at the entrance to the very secure resort and I am greeted by the headlights of the stereotypical pizza vehicle - small, near scrapyard condition, but this time with a middle aged female as its pilot. I realised later they sent a female to help diffuse a potential situation. In my best QLD drawl I say "G'day, What's the damage?" How right I was. That'll be $82 thanks". I think I responded with something witty like "Strewth! -What are they gold plated?" She did not answer, or I did not hear her response. I was then removing the cash from my surprisingly well stocked wallet (holiday wallet mode), thinking of all the fantastic flavour combinations that could adorn these beauties. Was it going to be Gorgonzola, Rocket, Potato and Rosemary or Smoked Ham, Avocado, Sun dried Tomato and port caramelized onions? Maybe they had Italian sausage here in Far North Queensland, ooh this will be good.

I grab the receipt just for proof I did pay, and didn't threaten her imaginary poodle with imminent death for those pizza's. I try and sneak a peek to make sure these pizza's are gilded or at least silver plated, her headlights dip as she reverses and sputters away down the hill and I can only make out a crispy crust -Good signs!

I clear some space and manoeuvre the lids to reveal all 4 pizza's. A truly amazing phenomena has occurred on the short walk from the front gate to the table, the gilded pizza's with unique and epicurean toppings have been replaced by some act of David Copperfield with processed ham, cheese, pineapple and a hand full of machine pitted "jar" olives. My disappointment is unable to be withheld for the greater good of the evening. Little does the assemble group of testosterone know that I am hyper critical of all food - especially when you pay a premium. I figure my ensuing outburst must be akin to road rage when I have been unfairly cut off and made to look red faced! I demand satisfaction, but from who, where? What just happened??

Is our distance from a capital city determine a higher price of usually economical purchases? Or are we blessed in our home capital cities for a reasonable price for fantastic pizzas?

I winged and I wined without support or confirmation from anyone who had ever experienced any clear discrepancy in pricing. Note: Queensland is an obscenely big state - long, in particular! If you haven't driven it you'll not know that when you get to Brisbane you're just half way to Cairns!! Despite it's size they have a great transport infrastructure and until recently have had subsidised petrol, for all those itchingly parochial Jo' B'Petersen fans out there! And for interest you can get fresh muffin dough delivered to your Cafe Kitchen doorstep in Cairns, made in Brisbane before it thaws. Tremendous! All for the measly fee of around $3 (cost) dollars a Muffin.

With the prevalence of Italian cuisine / cooking all over the world there should be, for the sake of the rest of the world some sort of "Polizia Nationale" sharply & smartly dressed Polizia seeking out poorly made and poorly priced Italian food. Perhaps a proper punishment would be public disgrace (with rotten 'glasshouse' tomatoes) thrown t'ward the stocks! I was clearly outnumbered in the consideration of the delivery, I was remunerated moderately, and I struggled to finish a slice when I realised there was undercooked onion hidden beneath the insulating doona of cheese! (This reminds me of 'Russells' - Too much onion!)

Are people naturally less critical in awkward social situations - such as male dominated situations? I have experienced these situations where men will press on through apparently happy with mediocrity when others in less oppressive circumstances would protest!

I need to know I am not alone, tell me I am not alone! Male's, whatever form should have some sort of critical review or spine to say "No!" this is not good enough. And as a footnote to that last statement the critical review of any food is not proportional to my opinion of present company at said 'Male Gathering' or the skills of the host....

There I said it! Balls out truth!

Giles