Passionate people rarely stand still, like a fidgeting child often the forced pauses between action can get the better of those with pressurised claret coursing through their veins. Chefs, artists and thinkers are alike in this pursuit of challenge and success. When the limited gaze of food and wine reviewers cast an eye over the food, wine and assemblage of other factors in the entire package it can feel as though there should always be some sort of communication between passionate food lover and passionate chef. Perhaps this might relay some of the real energy that surrounds the electric nature of hospitality. A common act at the conclusion of a dish: waiter clears plates and enquires with the customer, on accassion there is wild eyed ecstacy! Words gush from the table... Does this passionate homage to the food make its desired effect on the chef? It also begs the question is the adoration a perk of the job or is it a driver to continue the pursuit of excellence?
In 2007, Sarah Turner then Head Chef at Enoteca (Cucina) won the relatively prestigious Chef of the Year. It was an accumulation of success for the Restaurant / Function centre, building a reputation as a premium venue with a lot to offer the middle to high market of enquisitive and refined diners. Turner promptly exited taking an opportunity at the Colonel Light Hotel which had been sent back in time and renovated by a not so talented Kubrick set designer. Enoteca apparently suffered in the years after, loosing its way with some punters colloquially not impressed with service and surrounds. Although rarely was the food mentioned as being poor...
Our last visit to Enoteca was a resounding success, mainly due to the terrific service and '05 King valley Sangiovese and of course the food. Entree was a brief look at some olives and bread, as well as a plate of sliced proscuitto with hazelnut,s figs, pecorino and a glaze that made you want to die promptly to sustain the joy. Our mains were pasta and gnocchi and I was not put off by the saltiness that permiatted a sausage and scallop sphaghetti as the delicate texture of the dish carried it through this heavy handed fopar. The gnochi was a jaw dropper... Yes you know the drill.... soft pillows finely texture, the robust walnut and aragula pesto was a terriffic accompaniment to the brilliant gnocchi.
Hopefully our compliments made it over the pass and into the kitchen to lift their spirits and perhaps reassure the hard working team that their toil is worthwhile. With sustained hard work the praise will continue to flow and the real test will be to show wisdom and restraint if or when opportunity beckons for those involved.
