The flagship restaurant at the Hilton Hotel Adelaide has been reviewed by John Lethlean of The Australian newspaper... Read it...
Saturdays Review insert..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839287-14440,00.html
Follow up article this morning..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839593-14440,00.html
Comment:
Do not get me started about the Hilton Adelaide. Lets keep the food out of it for the moment.
It certainly is controversial!
I love it!
This review has been whipped up into a frenzy by parochial radio jocks and one eyed shlop journo's trawling the net. I know that Adelaide restaurants do not receive the critical review that all eateries jostling for your dollar should! If I had clout I would focus my attack on the inadequate skills of a local reviewer (who is paid by the very same Murdoch!) Mr. Tony Love of The Advertiser. His easy going, friendly, she'll be right story telling has left many Adelaide Restaurants untouched when clearly there were problems a foot. A good rocket under your ass can only be good in such situations - He (Cheong Liew) should react and get moving - either out of the Hilton and away from their protection or push them (Hilton) to create something worthy.
I remember about 5 years ago the same was written about Magil Estate Restaurant in The Australian (not Lethlean), although the head chef was not as notable as Mr. Liew there was significant reputation on the line and the review was scathing. Very little was said in the Adelaide media then, which reflects badly once again on our local print and radio. Why this time - and why Cheong, not Mr. Bryant? Through all this it must be said that Cheong is not Executive Chef - another celebrity chef Mr. Simon Bryant is in that most important position. The responsibility for every plate of food lies with him, and I assume very gingerly that Bryant was overseeing Mr. Lethlean's meals. Bad luck for Lethlean that Bryant wasn't shooting a self promoting romp with another of the states self inflated food celebrities Ms. Beer!! Other examples are The Wine Underground, Blakes Restaurant, Chloe's, Norton Summit, D'Arry's Verandah, Bridgewater Mill etc. They all receive unequivocal praise, without a hint of critical review. Maybe the review sections of Adelaide's media should be titled "What I ate on the weekend".
Giles
ps. I bet you that the Hilton won't be spending any money on their Restaurant's any time soon!
14 years ago
As a wine sommelier it is embarrassing when one of South Australia’s most renowned restaurants produces somewhat or a boring wine list. The current wines on the list barring a few are an obvious work-man like choice. This list looks like it has been produced from the Eastern States. Yes the obvious Hill of Grace SA premium selection/Grand Cru’s but a restaurant of the apparent quality of ‘The Grange’ I would expect to have a snazy/snappy wine list. As per John Lethlean comments, “reflecting Liew’s Malaysian roots” implies the typical Malaysian strenth/domminance of flavours. Typically a wine list with this style of food requires wine with higher acidity hence Riesling. Honestly where is the Pikes Merle, Skillogalee Trevarrick. Conversation over the water cooler today has been people are shocked. How could one of our most “flashy” restaurants cop belting like that. Honestly its what it needed. Typically Adelaide-ian in style it waits until it’s reached the near “poxy” stage until we do something about it.
ReplyDeleteAgain like Lethleans review it is only one persons personal opinion and shouldn’t be taken to harsh. But… when it comes down to the wine list in the best wine state in Australian questions need to be asked.
a sommelier? lets hope you don't write the wine lists....
ReplyDeletehence Riesling? sommelier? hmmmmm.
ReplyDeleteYep, if by "Norton Summit" you mean "The Summit" at Mt Lofty, you're 100% correct. What a crock that place is!
ReplyDelete