Jerusalem Sheshkabab House - Review

Falafel is a mystery, an enigma where all the components are clear yet the resultant form can be as the changing weather is torrid and nasty or light and fluffy. Jerusalem Sheshkabab House has been serving tremendous Falafels since 1972. They are lightly textured inside and encased by a crunchy crust, UFO shaped and so consistent it is like they are cloned from a perfect specimen taken from the ancient city itself. Devotees of this quirky restaurant know it is consistent but this is not the main reason for its long lived success. Like the Falafel so many aspects of Jerusalem contribute to the enticing, invigorating experience. Owner Michael Merhi informs me after re acquainting ourselves that his father Steve started the small business back when the western world was learning to love its multicultural cuisine, I suspect Adelaide was barely coming to grips with it even then. My earliest memories of the dimly lit, authentic venue is the low slung fabric ceiling that I could almost touch with my outstretched hand and now I have to tilt my head to miss. First time patrons are instant fans of Jerusalem, amazed that the food is always served quickly, cheaply and without fuss and sometimes with gruff. Enter on a Saturday evening and you might struggle to find an empty table, barter and plead a little and you will be rewarded. BYO is the cheapest in the city ($1.50) and on a busy night remember a bottle opener – cos’ you could go thirsty. A tribute to the efficiency and style of the venue is that no one ever stays as long as they initially intended. The food arrives before you can check for extra bread, Michael knows there is money to be made as tables turn over several times a night. Another ingredient in the Jerusalem mix is the short menu with highlights like Hummus $7.50 and Babaganoush $8, both which bare the signs of a swiftly ladled spoon smoothing them underneath the spice and oil. There are plates of Tahini $6.50, Yoghurt $6.50 (and cucumber) and Tabouli $7.50 salads that are mostly fresh but can vary. My pick is always the cooling Yoghurt salad. Warm quarters of flat bread are served in a retro plastic basket, take note it is not a sin to run out of bread before accompanying dishes but it is on the contrary. Further down the menu are favourites like flattened thumbs of Lamb Kafta $13 in spicy yoghurt sauce, florets of Cauliflower $10 are on offer with the same sauce but no one seems to mind. Upstairs there is a function room available for banquets, and they wave the BYO fee and throw in a belly dance!
Heated political debate, artistic turmoil, free thinking socialism, right winged conservatism all squeeze and jostle for position in the glossy red booths. As if on queue the eternal struggle reappears as guests eye off a lonely falafel, both sides stake their claim, bread poised at the ready to scoop up the pillow of chick peas, herbs and spice and douse it in forgotten dip. Such conflicts can be resolved with more diplomatic Hummus and no one leaves empty or dissatisfied. Jerusalem Coffee $3 and Baclava $3 is one of the final ingredients to the success of Jerusalem Restaurant, a little aromatic punch reinforced by the honey spiced pastry. Each time I return to Jerusalem my faith is reaffirmed by their authentic Middle Eastern food, charming interior with loads of character, cheap, fast, and consistent yet still the mystery remains intact.

Giles