Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Argentinean Sauce - Recipe
1 Tbspn. of Coriander seed
1 Tbspn of Cummin seed
2 Tbspn. of Fennel seed
1 Tbspn. of Drien Oregano
5 Bay Leaves
4 Tbspn. of Paprika
1/2 bunch of Parsley
3 Tbspn. of Tom. Paste
Salt and Pepper
3 Cloves of Garlic
1/3 Measures of White Vinegar
2/3 Measures of Canola Oil
These liquid measures above depend on what you wish to do with the sauce, but the ratio remains the same.
Place all ingredients in a good blender and blitz until desired thickness is achieved.
Store in the fridge.
Enjoy!
Giles
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Gaucho's Argentinian Restaurant ~ Review
For entree or Primer Plato the table endeavoured to try the oyster in the house style Ostras del Diablo (1/2 Doz. $19.9) which were not overly impressive despite the potential in the ingredients. The fresh Coffin Bay oysters were far more refreshing and satisfying than the value added alternative (1/2 doz. $16.9). The waitress was cool and cunning - almost mischievous sadly it was lost on our guests or so they acted. The sharing extended to a modified platter of beef, pork and fennel chorizo sausage served with fried polenta and a rocket and dried tomato salad, on this occasion our platter was embellished with large char grilled prawns and sectioned squid. The sausage was a hit and I loved the crisp, richly textured polenta. The prawns were a big letdown, dry and floury as though not fresh or overcooked or both!
I hijacked the wine list and made an intentional choice with our guests in mind, I mean to blow their head off with big bold shiraz from the Barossa Valley - Glaetzer, Bishop. (I reckon '06)
My mains choice was the Cordero, chimmi churri marinated lamb loin chops served on s-mash with chorizo and wilted spinach and pan juices ($36.9).
The rest of the table ordered from the 'Carnis' menu which sit near the $40 mark. The Vaquita Cordobesa, 350gm grass fed yearling fillet ($41.9) and the Bife de Chorizo, a 450gm grass fed bone in porterhouse ($39.5) were the two popular orders. Both cuts are aged and dry aged for 4 weeks respectively. All requests were made for medium cooking. I cringe a little when I hear any request for such large cuts of meat cooked beyond medium rare. There is significant damage done to meat on a grill whilst waiting for a medium steak to cook, of course there is a resting time and thankfully none of the meat ordered on this night showed the signs of premature plating - pooling blood or 'juice'.
Our guests went big on size and flavour to which I say ‘Well Done!’ The fillet with Shiraz and peppercorn sauce and the Porterhouse on the bone with a blue cheese sauce. Both extremely large and cooked to the order, yet their display would not speak this truth. They appeared almost black from the char grill that it is unavoidable on a medium steak of that size. The char grill can be a blessing and a curse to the flavour of meat, try not to order beyond Medium rare and you will discover more to the beef
However, the lamb had terrific flavour with the sweet, rich aroma that fills your head. The dish was lacking some balance away from the rich and pungent lamb; the wilted spinach barely carried its own against the powerful marinade. I looked to my glass to balance my meal as I found no match on the plate and took to guzzling the Bishop. As no one else seemed interested in the vino I was allowed to revel in the quality lamb and wine.
The preparation and consumption of such serious cuts of meat is as much about perception as about what is going on around it, Gaucho's do a very good job of keeping the cut of meat the star and the supporting roles are kept as such. Gaucho's would struggle without the supporting players like sauces, wine, linen, providence and cheery, diligent service. An Argentinean restaurant seems a relatively simple idea: "Grill some steak and slap it on a plate". A simple idea is only as good as its execution, Gaucho's seem committed to the produce as being central to their ideal. The providence of each cut is labelled clearly on the menu as well as the type and length of aging which is no mean feat when fluctuating trade can reap havoc on the bottom line. Gaucho’s is as much about professionalism as it is about the meat, go once in your life and enjoy the whole package not just the choice cuts.
Friday, December 18, 2009
Weird Dessert
The weirdness now extends to Vietnamese desserts. My colleagues are real food nuts! They sell their desserts in the work canteen, you can also buy spring rolls fresh deep fried or frozen. There is also prawn sticks that are wedged onto stalks of bamboo shoot (I think).
The dessert is mostly coconut milk with green food coloured noodles floating around like gizzards, and then there is some ice and some chewy ice looking glutinous stuff - No idea what that is?
Check it out:
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Retro Mixer
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Beat Mix
John Citizen: "I was in the den and Nancy was doing her baking and five furious men and a disc jockey appeared demanding we 'turn it up' or was it 'mix It up!' I can't quite remember. I obliged and they proceeded to break dance on the linoleum floor - It was quite rhythmical, and Nancy was getting quite excited!"
Scary Spice Writer.
Maybe I should focus on the camera and the directors controlling them, who can amplify any idiosyncrasy and turn it into psychological disorder worthy of a leafy metropolitan suburb institution! The pointy bit of my argument was going to be "George’ous" Calombaris of Masterchef and Ready, Steady, Cook fame, his poor cutlery handling has turned me off his general TV presence. I do not blame him, I blame the machine that made him into the crispy denim (G) star that he has become. He is amongst brutish company: the swear bear Ramsay, Oliver who can barely string two real words together (made up ones don't count!) and least of all Granger, that scary stylised smile scares the bejesus out of me! The point of my rambling discussion could have been that these men are probably all right blokes. Real down to earth types – you could have beer and a laugh about something.... The real measure of a star is the way they work a crowd especially when they are at Food Shows held in packed out auditoriums making crude remarks about our Tracy or using stupid words like jubbly! There’s Granger on the side of stage just smiling, not at you but through you into your very soul! Calomabaris, the feisty little Greek man is also guilty of auditorium antics – along with his grinning sidekick. You Tube it and see them piss farting around for yourself.
My essay would have been quite substantial with significant reference to the rising molecular food movement (amazing bullshit) or moralistic gestures to ‘slow food’ stalwarts like M. Beer. Truthfully I have neither the patience nor the skill to surmise why these highly skilled culinary entrepreneurs are the way they are. They appear to be arse monkeys, who make me sick with jealousy over the passion, drive and focus they have to their work!
Don’t your cheeks hurt Bill?
Giles
Thursday, December 3, 2009
The Barkeep is back, so drink it up!
Not only has he been tasting, imbibing, sipping and quaffing he has been writing - feverishly.
I am looking forward to seeing what hits the pixels!
The most recent entry on TheSculleryBar is a mild rant on the ethics of bottled water, and of course 'Two For Review'.
Giles
Monday, November 30, 2009
The Table - OPENING SOON!
Check out the website of the newest place in the hills, opening soon! http://www.thetable.on.net/
Go Dotti, Callum and Jackman!
Giles
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Hot and Cold Swinging Doors!
Well - I think so!
Monday, November 23, 2009
New Prospect's
I have been a loyal patron of the Lucky Asian Grocery, (412 Prospect Rd. Kilburn. 8262 3395) for many months now and I am amazed for several reasons: The price of grocery’s, the service, the range and the freshness. I have completely realigned my weekly menu in line with shopping at this eclectic little venue. I search in their freezer section and look closely at the ingredients, made in Australia – Mile End in fact. Noodles thin thick, pale, clear and ‘eggy’ – all freshly made locally! Gawler River birds in the fridge, fillets of beef so cheap you’d think the last 10 years had never occurred. I request guidance to the fish sauce or roasted soy/chilli paste (better than vegemite!) and receive it promptly and cheerfully sometimes with a cheekiness you might expect from an old friend. I return home laden with fresh supplies, I am always exclaiming to my partner the “usual” price of a large packet / jar / bag of... and asking her to guess what I paid. I know she knows the game, we play along so I get to make my point however diffused it gets.
The Ghan Kebab House, (366 Prospect Rd. Kilburn. 82624042) is a unique eatery with every element checked and ready to create a success story. My first encounter was very early in their history and the flavour of the grilled kebabs and spicy sauces made me sit up and pay attention. A smokey char grilled kebab served with fresh salad and fresh Turkish bread. The servings were so substantial I thought that this could not last – well they have whipped their service into line and now have the product singing “eat me – but leave me wanting more!” I am pretty sure they buy their bread from the bakery down the road...
The Tasty Turkish Bread Bakery (Shop 4, 428 Prospect Rd. Kilburn) is a sort of throwback to days when a baker made one sort of loaf and that was good enough for everyone. This could be true or that I am always late on the scene and the alternative offering have been purchased – there never seems to be more than a few lengthy loaves on the shelves. Guaranteed they are fresh, two dollars ($2) two dollars ($2) will get you a bag so buy a few and freeze lest the rainy day cometh! A commitment to a cause such as baking your traditional bread in a land of water filled nonsense seems like suicide but I find it completely admirable their focus and determination to making great bread. I would call them craftsmen: skilful, focussed & unwavering.
Sunshine Vietnamese Meat Roll (Shop 4, 370 Prospect Rd. Blair Athol, 8349 8020) The humble Vietnamese elongated loaf didn’t make sense to me for so many years. I would stuff it with cheese, fritz, tomatoes and HP or homemade tomato sauce. Try it after a heavy night (I developed the recipe when I was 9) of cartoons and lollies! The Vietnamese Meat Roll is a true revelation of the working lunch trade which I am not completely sure has reached the CBD. If and when it does, be ready and get in line! The reason my fritz’n’sauce yumbo never seemed quite right was the lack of fresh herbs, chilli, sauces, shredded meats & vegetables. Coriander, Spring onions, Cucumber slices and julienned carrot are fresh sweet and fill out the crispy nothingness that is the 20cent loaf. Add a little fish sauce/ soy / Chinese vinegar and fresh chilli and my golly gosh it is heaven on a dirty industrial estate! Oh! Have I mentioned the price $3.50 for a grilled chicken with all the trimmings!? I tend to steer clear of indiscernible meat products on offer, tread the new path and you may find joy as I have.
I think Prospect Rd. (north) has certainly moved well beyond its far richer and affluent southern neighbour in terms of culinary diversity and accessibility. The Prospect (south) Fashion, Food and Wine Affair was a complete culinary farce and should be relocated a few K’s north. Recent beautification efforts in Kilburn have worked and now hopefully the community will respond with enthusiasm, pride. Yes I look to incite rivalry between north and south because often it is the best remedy for inaction.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
So long Cheong...
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Goodnight... Failhouse Rock!
Monday, October 19, 2009
Indian Temptations - Review
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Baking Bender!
The challenge was to bake a basic chocolate cake for a friend who wanted it for their wedding cake. White frosting and and two tiers of simple square design, this holds the biggest challenge - A Square Cake!
I can bake, I accurately follow recipes when baking and I know all the procedures for best results - like maintaining the air in a light eggy sponge cake. So I refer to the baking bible of Aaron Maree's Cakes, Tortes and Gateaux's. It has every old world cake recipe with very good pictorial decorating instructions. Plus every cake I have made form this cookbook straight from the late eighties has never failed.... Until now! I started with the light and not to rich Chocolate Genoise` Sponge, I make and bake it with success. A taste test by my bride approved taster - "No, not rich enough"... This is not good. The idea of layering up a square gateaux with choc chantilly cream is not going to happen - all of my best efforts to explain how the richness needs balance with frosting and layers is lost. I back track and bake one of my old favourites the dark cocoa cake - "No"
F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!
I search the pages of the cook book and find a recipe for a Devil's Food Cake - which is the chocolate version of Angels Food Cake. An American contribution to the baking world that is extremely popular because it is rich moist and satisfying without cream.
Cake 1 - Rises, doesn't set. falls....Shit. Is my bi-carb soda 10 years old?
Cake 2 - Rises Slowly, cooks a bit better - But eventually falls, Double Shit!
Cake 3 - If this one does not work I have to pull the pin and go into contingency mode! What do you know it Rise nicely and so i cook it steadily and do not open the door or skewer it until it definitely cooked through... Test - Fail! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!
Cake 4!! - One more - This time with SR Flour and trying not to over mix in a smaller bowl... Signs are good and with a consistent rise I am happy with the help I recieved from my Mother (bless her) i let it cool and wait until the morning to test the cake. I slice right through the middle to reveal a cavernous hole of uncooked cake. F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K! F%$K!
I call in a favour from some former colleagues and a massive (layered chocolate sponge) gateaux is ready and waiting the next day. Phew! Wiping brow - relief. I haven't completely ruined everything.
I will master this recipe... but the mystery is still out there...
Giles
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Bad Mo Pho`
http://www.foodstandards.gov.au/_srcfiles/MSG%20Technical%20Report.pdf#search=%22msg%22
Monday, September 21, 2009
Failhouse Rock!
What's wrong with some Cheese-burgers, Fries and Soda's??
I give them 4 weeks to live...
Giles
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Hobby Habit - Editorial
The Age (Epicure) has a habit of focusing on what could be seen as hobby farming, I admit a very good way to engage a reader in the love affair with food. BUT - It skews the reality of what the average Australian farmer produces and the way they go about their toil!
An example of what is totally unrealistic and frankly a little bit hypocritical in my opinion is the pig farmer who is happy enough to slaughter her pigs but won't sell them to just anyone based merely on the way that person is potentially going to prepare her beloved produce! WHAT is this person farming pigs for if not to be slaughtered and eaten? Farmers all over the country deal with these issues everyday and have to learn to live with it - I think a broader view of primary producers is required by the media in general. It may not be the most intriguing cover story, but certainly truthful which is important particularly in the meat industry.
"...pigs she raises for meat are never given names. "That would be too much," she says. "But when I send them off (to be slaughtered) I thank them that they are helping us all survive."
Like Andrew Wood, Behrendt came to farming later in life. She was born in Kew and grew up in Glen Waverley. "There's something that draws you to the land. You can't describe it but it's a powerful feeling that you can't deny," she says. "And next thing you know you're a pig farmer!"
Behrendt's respect for her pigs continues long after they have oinked their last oink. She has been known to refuse to sell her pork to people she doesn't think meet her criteria.
"Some people come to my market stall and throw the meat around," she says. "I refuse to sell it to them. Others tell me how they are going to cook a certain cut and I just know they are going to stuff it up so I don't let them have it. I raised those pigs. I knew them. I am never going to see their flesh abused in my market stall or in the kitchen when someone cooks the crap out of it. I can do everything right on my farm but it only takes a few minutes from a crap cook to ruin the meat from my pigs."... Read the full article, follow the link below.
http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2009/09/07/1252201176498.html
What's Glen Waverly like? Does it meet your criteria?
Giles
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Food file - What has been happening?
This photo is on the balcony in Townsville with my Brothers in laws and our family having just arrived from the south... Nothing says welcome like a shit load of seafood! I think I made that door stop of a cheese board in the centre of the table... I might have to make another to avoid them suing me for sever spine pain?!
My fathers love affair with any sort of Sauternais wine continues - and I do not mind when he leaves the odd bottle behind.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Estia Restaurant - Review
Socialising is what the Greeks do best... gees, they created the whole concept of sitting around eating, drinking and generally having a good old time. And now in ’09 they charge others for the experience, did they create that one too? When Greek food is good it seems effortless, food rolls out the kitchen, the staff are well honed and you wonder why you would ever need to eat anything else. Estia achieved this on a sunny September lunch service, they are clearly a real performer without being distracted by the testosterone ‘guns’.
Giles
Friday, August 28, 2009
A Refreshing Mantra - Interview with Head Chef Dioni Pike
We enjoyed a beer at the Wheatsheaf Hotel on George St. and discussed where the next venue would be for Dioni’s next endeavour. The answer was clear: Mantra, 36 King William Rd Goodwood. Why? Well it seems Ms. Pike not only appreciates the change from a fast pace restaurant to the more relaxed dining but the food focus changing from traditional rustic flavours to a more refined wine oriented dining experience at Mantra.
Being very literally between jobs on her last day at Panacea, (72-74 Halifax St. City) I was privy to some information you would only achieve in an interview – funny that.
My vested interest is in dining out so I asked about Dioni’s first real dining out experience. “Eighteen years go – Phillippa and Donovan Cooke, a husband and wife team, we had lunch at Luxe and Est Est Este for dinner which is now Circa, I had the cookbook and was pretty excited. First time of spending copious amounts of money but understanding why I spent that money”. Dioni highlighted the service being so focussed that the wine selection was made prior to being seated and it was decanted upon selection so that it had time to breathe. She remembers being so greatly educated by the experienced it stuck with her as a highlight. More recently was a casual Friday lunch at the Bridgy Mill, that’s the spirit!
Ms Pike is a fan of the States quality produce, so I asked her what her favourite product of the moment is, the one she just had to have? “... (Short pause)..... Cheese, I love cheese” Her current flavour fav is the wonderful mix of quality Ale with Cheese, namely a Moo Brew Dark ale.
We spoke briefly about getting in front of the camera as is the common theme with successful Chef’s, but Dioni has already done her time on the frontier show AM Adelaide. Dioni confessed she is actually quite shy and did not revel in the situation. She sees herself being more likely to take on apprentices or have a role teaching in the industry. She is very well place to do so having begun her apprenticeship as a pastry and all the inherent difficulties with mastering flour and yeast. “I find pastry tougher than cooking, cos’ with cooking you keep tasting until you have the right flavour, yet pastry is so precise especially yeast work... it’s so more complex. Yet cooking has the pressure of service”
Inspiration comes to her in the simple things like eating a fresh picked strawberry on a warm day, she enjoys this so much better than higher end foods like foie gras etc. This mentality has suited Dioni at Panacea with the more rustic meals being what she was cooking for herself at the time and she was so pleased when it transferred to the restaurant so successfully.
Dioni is now enjoying her confidence in the kitchen, but it did not come easy though. It requires “massive drive to want to do it, especially when you start out, it’s extremely tough and there’s lots to learn, and dealing with the pressure... Now the busier the better, a lot more fun – the adrenalin kicks in, you are confident in what you are doing. There is nothing better than doing an amazing service.”
“...You are head down bum up... It is a select few that can deal with the pressure”
“Prioritising and sacrificing a lot of your social life, I have always lived opposite to the average person... Most chefs at my age are heading away from the industry, but I feel I have barely tipped the iceberg” Dioni is getting motivated about creating and trying new things. She also mentions her limited family has meant her sacrifices have been made easier. But with a warning you need to have a well balanced lifestyle, else it can be very, very tough. This lifestyle can rapidly take its toll, heavy drinking, smoking (surprisingly –when taste matters), fatigue. The “knock off drink” can often descend into heavy Bourdain style drinking session. Although not immune to these crazy sessions Dioni prefers to use her powers for good like restoring furniture or learning to play the guitar – which is not going well. I know a power chord can go a long way.
Her home life still involves cooking and Thai food is coming first for top cuisine followed closely by French, but she admits it tends to be the opposite of what she is cooking at work. She is enthused about the opportunity presenting itself at Mantra, 1st November. She also extolled the virtues and passion of her soon to be boss Ben Warren – a multi talented restaurateur who wears many hats, least of which is music.
Dioni has her head well and truly fixed and she commands respect with her presence and calm speech. She could well be a role model for all females considering a career in the industry, how to succeed with passion, pride and strength of character.
Her future goals do include a restaurant in McLaren Vale’s with a relaxed dining atmosphere using the best produce the region has to offer, I implored Dioni to let me know immediately it is open.
The best indication of Dioni Pike’s passion is that cooking is her hobby.
Leo's Lunchtime!
Sunday, August 23, 2009
The Brunswick - Review
I step into a neatly organised saloon bar no longer resembling the themed farmhouse of years past, the fashionable interior highlighted with antique furniture and homogenous art. The classic features have been effectively highlighted, like the floorboards, terrazzo bar frontage and the pressed metal verandah ceiling.
The pub menu is a much pondered subject... Does a pub take stance and say no to gastronomic influences and continue with ‘Roast of the day’ and ‘Seafood baskets’? I am recently inclined to think that the food and the decor should match, such as a restaurant. The short walk through the front bar to the saloon and around a delightful seated area to the dining room brings the decor to just on level with a reasonable restaurant. The menu reads well with some interesting inclusions and some pub standards. Note no beef or veal schnitzel, big call!
We are interested in a Brunswick Platter ($22.9) on the short starters list, it arrives very promptly which I would have expected on a quiet evening. It held a few surprises for the table, which suited the Steam Exchange Stout we were sampling off tap. Oysters and stout, poached star anise pears and stout, Grilled chorizo and anything! These were really good combinations to start a meal, my thoughts in particular were racing, beer included of course! The specials list had some great options which put the hard decision with our table and we required more Stout and the wine list. A bottle of fairly generic ‘Gamekeepers’ Shiraz Grenache 07 was requested and an 08 was delivered. Do I have grounds for complaint? Oh well, it was just the ticket for the diverse range of meals ordered. I attacked a grilled Pork Cutlet ($22.9) with Cheese tart and beans with a fig glaze I forget those details as the glaze and tart had chilled significantly since its preparation waiting for its porcine keystone. My immediately adjacent diner had ordered from the specials, Eye Fillet ($22.9) with a mash, wild mushrooms and a glaze the details are again hazy as the mash and the sauce were heading south in degrees. It was cooked correctly as was the pork and both were very tender serves. On hearing the ‘chilled’ news I whip round the table with queries of “Cold?”. The responses were mixed, the Stuffed Crispy Skin Chicken Breast ($23.9) with roast capsicum coulis arrived hot but its accompanying risotto tower was chilled at its base and warm elsewhere. The chicken was stuffed with an under seasoned mix of spinach, ricotta and pine nuts. The Red Curried Snapper ($22.9) from the specials was suitably heated although there were mumblings of the curry being to overpowering, I would contest that Red Curry is specifically formulated to be overpowering. The Chicken Schnitzel ($16.5) is offered with lemon, it appeared to be standard Pub Schnitzel effort but the crumb seemed to have received some special treatment I could not pick, but well worth the price tag. I didn’t really care if the chips were cold against the plate, as there is a distinct line in the sand when it comes to serving a dish with a specific sauce and offering deep fried beds of chips to lay your crumbed protein upon. The allowances given to the pub oriented meals are justified, as for the more refined dishes I would reference the restaurant quality decor and question why the kitchen procedure does not match.
On this evening the plates were cold, otherwise the meals would’ve impressed. The Brunswick Hotel kitchen has done almost everything right, smart menu with diverse choice to coax the blinkered diner away from the TAB. The world is cold and harsh sometimes even on a mild August evening.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Maintain your rage!
Read the bad news on my least enjoyed news site...
Woolworths - "I'm as mad as hell and I'm not going to take this anymore!"
Giles
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Cucumber Crime - What!?!
Check out the ABC story...
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/08/12/2653384.htm
"Thanks to the ABC for not knowing that I've used their photo yet.... And if anyone has seen these cucumbers - I would give them a good wash and then perhaps make some nice raita to go with your Lamb Rogan Josh - Triffic!"
Even though these cucumbers that were stolen were ready for picking and some apparently were bagged and ready for sale the issue raises some interesting issues. If a thief slices open a plastic covered grow house that has been sprayed that very day with a pesticide or worse, and proceed to rip off vegetables nearing sale time and back up to the car to a boot sale, some poor shmoe is going to encounter some nasty chemicals.
Think about it: Growers know what they're doing, grocers know what they're doing, Thieves like to think they can get in on the act.
Giles
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Tuesday Dinner - 2001 Tart Odyssey!!
Dinner on Tuesday evening at ours is always an interesting one, I am finally recovered from the weekends hi jinx and well and truly into the week. Pays in the bank and I feel the need to cook.
Thankfully this time I experienced some success, the pastry was blind baked sufficiently to hold up through the cooking of the tart.
Magic - The first ooozing of Gorgonzola was my golden star of approval. This is certainly one to work on to get it to a cranking recipe, please give it a crack and let me know how it goes!!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
My Fair Farina - Quick Bite Review
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Argo Hellenic Cafe Restaurant - Review
I am expectant of some clean Greek flavours with hearty meat options, this is mostly my optimism kicking in as the menu is light on adjectives. The bare minimum is committed to enticing us into our choices, although I know the potential of each of the Mezede and Entree. If all goes well our wallets could get away with a sneaky Greek feast! The dips of our choice were good, pita warm and servings enough to keep you interested yet contented. The Skordalia, potato garlic dip was smooth and powerful. The litmus test of any Greek Restaurant the Tzatziki was thick and crisply flavoured with correct pungency. A new experience for our table was the Kopanisti, a Creamy fetta laden with olive and chilli. So simple and effective. A small stack of handmade Dolmades, seasoned rice filled vine leaves and the Loukaniko Cyprus, Grilled Cyprus Sausage were both heat and serve options and survived the journey. The pickled Octopus, Octapodi Xidato was a let down to our start, lacking any pickled quality at all. I am more confident now that we have overcome the initial shock of our arrival to Hellenic Argo. It was a little different to what I’d imagined. Our host has a very awkward way of interacting and he seems to be alone tonight in his role as maitre d’, head waiter and barman. There is only one Indian chef (?) and no grandma’s to be seen. The dining room is extremely harshly lit, almost equal lux with an electronics assembly line. We are seated smack in the middle of a pretty much empty dining room which was not exactly the most hospitable move, seeing as more cosy options were available.
Let’s be clear, “Rustic” food is not a magical cloak to hide your culinary sins. Rustic just happens to be the outcome of centuries old tradition unchanged by progressing trends or haughty flings. Rustic is unwavering commitment to what clearly works. The Moussaka ($16.5), layered eggplant, potato mince and cheese was neatly presented in an earthenware dish which added a lovely method of spooning out the piping hot ingredients. The lamb ($19.5) was carrying scars of a char grill with fresh volcanic rock, dusty, smoky and definitely overcooked. The reverse treatment was administered to the Quail which was taken up with management by a distressed punter nearby. Raw and near flight! Traditionally a quail should be medium with plenty of time spent on low heat to permeate the little bones and win the battle with their sinew and relent to the nibbling teeth that wait. We skipped the bird. The fact that our neighbouring diner felt so motivated to talk to the chef about his inadequately cooked dish is definitely a sign. The Braised Baby Goat pieces were still pungent and textural after many hours of heat treatment, however it was on the dry side it must be said. And the solo accompaniment of soggy spuds looked sad as they surrounded the pond of pan juice which had none of the clarity of flavour it required, it was just muddled stock, oil and cooked out herbs. Sorry Sir, Rustic has the night off. I could leave the rest of this short review blank with many readers being clear in their thoughts about what Argo Hellenic has to offer them. Others may ask: Does Argo have potential though? Sadly not in the few good signs or was it whipped into shape by the razor sharp words of an unhappy “Wharfie”. But you could see a place like this becoming popular for the wrong reasons and developing a rough and ready clientele who already know there is not much to offer so treat it thus. The totality of the evening including wine offerings seemed passable upon reflection of the bill, but some of the flavours were not as potent as I clearly remember from tremendous Greek experiences throughout our city and suburbia. If I had to scale this restaurant on some sort of numerical scale I would have to dust off some of the lower digits that rarely get used in this city.
Giles
Note: Next time you are reading the The Local "Rag" check out their numerical scaling system and its obvious inconsistencies!!
Monday, August 3, 2009
"Blessed are the cheesemakers"- Editorial
Giles
Sunday, August 2, 2009
New Kitchen - Fluff
Tropical Pizza "to go!" - Editorial
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Yesterdays word of the day...
Dictionary.com
sapid \SAP-id\, adjective:
1. Having taste or flavor, especially having a strong pleasant flavor.
2. Agreeable to the mind; to one's liking.
Chemistry can concentrate the sapid and odorous elements of the peach and the bitter almond into a transparent fluid
-- David William Cheever, "Tobacco", The Atlantic, August 1860
I've raved about the elegant and earthy lobster-and-truffle sausage, the sapid sea bass with coarse salt poached in lobster oil, and the indescribably complex and delectable ballottine of lamb stuffed with ground veal, sweet-breads and truffles.
-- James Villas, "Why Taillevent thrives", Town & Country, March 1, 1998
Sapid comes from Latin sapidus, "savory," from sapere, "to taste."
Giles
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Cheong Liew kicks ass! - Comment
Monday, July 27, 2009
Ready, Aim, Fire!! Lethlean hits the mark.
Saturdays Review insert..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839287-14440,00.html
Follow up article this morning..
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25839593-14440,00.html
Comment:
Do not get me started about the Hilton Adelaide. Lets keep the food out of it for the moment.
It certainly is controversial!
I love it!
This review has been whipped up into a frenzy by parochial radio jocks and one eyed shlop journo's trawling the net. I know that Adelaide restaurants do not receive the critical review that all eateries jostling for your dollar should! If I had clout I would focus my attack on the inadequate skills of a local reviewer (who is paid by the very same Murdoch!) Mr. Tony Love of The Advertiser. His easy going, friendly, she'll be right story telling has left many Adelaide Restaurants untouched when clearly there were problems a foot. A good rocket under your ass can only be good in such situations - He (Cheong Liew) should react and get moving - either out of the Hilton and away from their protection or push them (Hilton) to create something worthy.
I remember about 5 years ago the same was written about Magil Estate Restaurant in The Australian (not Lethlean), although the head chef was not as notable as Mr. Liew there was significant reputation on the line and the review was scathing. Very little was said in the Adelaide media then, which reflects badly once again on our local print and radio. Why this time - and why Cheong, not Mr. Bryant? Through all this it must be said that Cheong is not Executive Chef - another celebrity chef Mr. Simon Bryant is in that most important position. The responsibility for every plate of food lies with him, and I assume very gingerly that Bryant was overseeing Mr. Lethlean's meals. Bad luck for Lethlean that Bryant wasn't shooting a self promoting romp with another of the states self inflated food celebrities Ms. Beer!! Other examples are The Wine Underground, Blakes Restaurant, Chloe's, Norton Summit, D'Arry's Verandah, Bridgewater Mill etc. They all receive unequivocal praise, without a hint of critical review. Maybe the review sections of Adelaide's media should be titled "What I ate on the weekend".
Giles
ps. I bet you that the Hilton won't be spending any money on their Restaurant's any time soon!