Scullery Food Moments

A first birthday cake that should certainly get the best dressed prize!  Amazing work and detail. It brought back some of the cakes of my childhood - Tip trucks, figure 8 race tracks... The Australian Women's Weekly set that bar very high for home baking. Nowadays the cupcake is experiencing a big resurgence, including elaborate decoration!  I was happy to see this appropriately themed old school roller skate cake at a roller rink party.  The young'n's sat in tubs with wheels as limbered up parents attempted to scare them silly!  Sore hamstrings and some chaffing for my troubles and no cake... It doesn't really matter what it taste like though. 

Cafe Komodo coughs up a cold brekky, sad but true!  Although it appears edible enough this breakfast was a disappointing effort and in the depths of winter a hot breakfast is one of life's treats.  The price tag of $16 was relatively reasonable and would have been a real steal if the the plates were warm and the food was promptly delivered.  The Komodo team is up against it when serving food out of a tin shed in what is now the coldest winter in a long time.  It is not impossible though.  Just last week we enjoyed a hearty full breakfast at Henry on George B'n'B in Moonta in South Australia's Yorke Peninsula.  For $12 you would struggle to find better value, the venue was busy with punters all enjoying the good price on the hot mid winter treat.
Whilst in the area....
The Wallaroo Marina dished up some local snags made by a local butcher that seriously floated this ones boat.  Shiraz infused bangers (made by local butcher Des) on a creamy whipped up mash with a lovely rich sauce.  Other meals appeared passable, although a lamb shank was cooked far to quickly and suffered dearly in the process-  Almost inedible...  The facility itself seems to be lacking a little soul. The walls seem a little bare and the coloured paper napkins and the bread rolls make it seem a little old fashioned for a three year young venue.
On the journey home we stop at a local fishing outlet selling oysters from Coffin Bay from further west, locally caught snapper, crabs and what caught my eye was the pickled baby octopus.  The snapper fillets were large and reasonably cheap, seared and baked with sumac served with spicy yoghurt sauce, they were amazing.  "Steve's Pickled Octopus" are a delicious snack that I would love to see on a local tasting plate that you could enjoy at the local joints with a local ale.  Snags, Snapper, Occy all they need is the local Ale!

Giles

ps. The local pasties at the Kadina Oval were top notch.... Cousin Jacks Bakery, Moonta.
Please comment on your favourite brekky location!

Movida Bar De Tapas - Review

Duck liver parfait with a Pedro Ximenez Foam served with a crispy toast.  A glass of very forgiving Gewurztraminer.  Movida Bar de Tapas on Hozier Lane is the obscenely popular heart of Tapas in Melbourne - I am happy to test it out.  More dishes crowd up our bar level table wedged between the kitchen pass and the bar where spots turnover every thirty to forty five minutes.

The low lighting and high ceilings partnered with the distinctly gritty lane scenery out the warehouse style windows create a quasi bohemian setting.  The menu is split into single tapas serves and sharing plates, specials are recited with a little difficulty which I think is splendid as it means only one thing that they are todays specials and not the monthly chalk board stalwart.  The saturday lunch time throng is pushing through the door and I feel extremely lucky to have been sat, fed and wined with such attentive efficiency.  We concur on our order over another glass of white and our list seems to be growing: Jamon of course, Braised beef cheek with a superbly creamy cauli puree, portobello mushrooms in a punchy sauce, roast garlic, tomato and herb breads which seem to be our palette cleanser, two roast quail breast with braised quail flesh, croutons, and grapes.

The food in general is very enjoyable and a touch daring that you would feel enriched by the endeavor but not so much challenged by any stretch.  The real draw card is the popularity of the venue and its detractor is the heaving populous standing at the door waiting for more.  Seven days a week lunch and dinner, not many venues can do this and do it so very successfully.  The tuning is near perfect on this purring machine, not even a drip of oil could slip this engineered status symbol up.

Giles

Italian Passion.

There are institutions and then there is Glenside mental health facility, Lucia's is the former and is well and truly treated with an untouchable treatment.  We picked up some produce and slipped by Lucia's for a black coffee (very, very Italian) and a milk / thick shake with some Minestrone soup and a Papadelle with napoletana sauce.  The Minestrone was the perfect solution to a widening gap on a cold morning at the Central Markets, the Pasta was luscious, with great texture. The sauce however was a real let down, lacking any sort of passion, the sort of passion you might find in an Italian staple like a Fiat 500!  Not even cheese and seasoning could save the splitting failure.  I will return and order the same again and be heartily comforted as usual, but on this occasion there was disappointed - perhaps not unlike a italian engineering perhaps?

Giles

Queens St. Cafe

Queen St Cafe in Croydon is a well established (and supported by other small venues) cafe that has strengthened its hold on the sit own trade for a smart breakfast or lunch.  We enjoyed the re invigorated regulars of Avocado on dark rye now with speck, genius move!  As well as Belgian waffles with berry compote!  The coffee is really good - whilst not trying any pretentious frothery (?) The interior suits the range of eclectic neighbours and I am pleased the Queen St Cafe is now secure as a consistent performer!

Lime is complimentary (for free!)

Giles

Governors Table...

The Governors House had an opening day today and amongst the lush manicured gardens were very enthusiastic yet restrained men in bowler hats looking like a TinTin comic stepping out in two's and "Ladies" spinning their parasols.  Inside was a picture of etiquette, especially the main dining room that was set ready to go for a dinner to be hosted by the Governor and wife Kevin and Liz Scarce.  The menu was soup, roast lamb, poached fruit, and cheese.  Sound pretty blah - yes, but the table setting was something else.  A real treat for all those formal dining freaks out there!

Next time I throw a dinner party my place card will read 'His Excellency' - No shit!

Giles

Enoteca - A few good points...

Passionate people rarely stand still, like a fidgeting child often the forced pauses between action can get the better of those with pressurised claret coursing through their veins.  Chefs, artists and thinkers are alike in this pursuit of challenge and success.  When the limited gaze of food and wine reviewers cast an eye over the food, wine and assemblage of other factors in the entire package it can feel as though there should always be some sort of communication between passionate food lover and passionate chef.  Perhaps this might relay some of the real energy that surrounds the electric nature of hospitality.  A common act at the conclusion of a dish: waiter clears plates and enquires with the customer, on accassion there is wild eyed ecstacy!  Words gush from the table... Does this passionate homage to the food make its desired effect on the chef?  It also begs the question is the adoration a perk of the job or is it a driver to continue the pursuit of excellence?
In 2007, Sarah Turner then Head Chef at Enoteca (Cucina) won the relatively prestigious Chef of the Year.  It was an accumulation of success for the Restaurant / Function centre, building a reputation as a premium venue with a lot to offer the middle to high market of enquisitive and refined diners.  Turner promptly exited taking an opportunity at the Colonel Light Hotel which had been sent back in time and renovated by a not so talented Kubrick set designer. Enoteca apparently suffered in the years after, loosing its way with some punters colloquially not impressed with service and surrounds.  Although rarely was the food mentioned as being poor...
Our last visit to Enoteca was a resounding success, mainly due to the terrific service and '05 King valley Sangiovese and of course the food.  Entree was a brief look at some olives and bread, as well as a plate of sliced proscuitto with hazelnut,s figs, pecorino and a glaze that made you want to die promptly to sustain the joy.  Our mains were pasta and gnocchi and I was not put off by the saltiness that permiatted a sausage and scallop sphaghetti as the delicate texture of the dish carried it through this heavy handed fopar.  The gnochi was a jaw dropper...  Yes you know the drill.... soft pillows finely texture, the robust walnut and aragula pesto was a terriffic accompaniment to the brilliant gnocchi.
Hopefully our compliments made it over the pass and into the kitchen to lift their spirits and perhaps reassure the hard working team that their toil is worthwhile.  With sustained hard work the praise will continue to flow and the real test will be to show wisdom and restraint if or when opportunity beckons for those involved.

Hot Cross Buns.... Why only once a year?

The Easter long weekend is a tremendous bookmark in any foody lifestyle with the gathering together of friends and or family when there is invariably lots of food and discussions.  I could go without a chocolate egg for the entire year and be happy that I did not miss out on anything special or innovative, but every year I relish the hot cross buns - toasted to a golden brown and smothered with butter or even butter and honey.  Whilst in Melbourne over the long weekend there were many cups of tea sipped, and some spectacular X buns sampled.  One that sticks clearly in my mind was one of the 1/2 doz from Dench's Bakery in North Fitzroy.  Oh my!! They were terrific, worth blogging about if you catch my drift!!  You could clearly see the hand chopped zest of lemon in the mix with big fruit and heady spice like a Belgian ale with a bouncy, airy doughyness only found romping in the adjacent hill side.  On return to Dench's for Monday lunch and perhaps another one of a 1/2 doz X buns I was informed no more X buns - Sadness, Confusion, Questioning.....  Is Easter that serious that we can't have an X bun after Easter Sunday.  I 'd like to think there is a logical explanation like the entire country runs out of the spice mix or that the X bun baker has taken today off. Please do not tell me it is for a religious reason, I won't buy it.  There is one more thing, surely there could be something gained for Christianity for X Buns to be sold all year round?  Perhaps they haven't realised the affinity the general public has to this religious symbolic bun, they are surely missing out on new followers or at least some profit?  Any way its good to have a good X bun.

Giles

Better get a bucket for all this Gluttony - Fringe Food'n'Booze Review.

It seems the Gluttony (- A decadent feast for the senses)  a part of the Fringe opening weekend festival got their sums horribly wrong.  So wrong were the numbers that on Sunday the  equation had completely changed.   Entry fee advertised pre event was $10+ Booking fee (through the fringtix site)  This ticket price included the perfunctory courtesy of a wine glass.  As we wondered past the enty gate of the Gluttony Fest. and headed to another event we were informed by an attendee that entry was free for a "short time".  We sauntered in and had a quick look, just to see what was on offer and how the event was being put together.  The staging had elements of Friday evenings Fringe opening concert which was a roaring success, or so I am informed.  As we loitered at the Sparrow Kitchen & Bar stall, an acquaintance made it clear that the event was terribly attended the previous day. The number 'a thousand' was mentioned and this rattled me a little.  It is only after I had time to think of the set up and the positioning of the event in the general Adelaide festival scheme - one thousand is not an ideal number. 

So the reason was clear, the equation had changed because organisers realised their massive over sight. The entry fee had been waived to increase the punter numbers walking through in a hope to raise the trade of the stall holders.  People seemed to have taken advantage of the open entry policy, but the damaged had been done.  Saturday's tiny attendance could be attributed to and probably will be if you talk to the event managers to the busy Adelaide schedule and the hot weather.  The Garden of Unearthly Delights across Rundle St. is free entry and has many varied food stalls, wine, beer and entertainment available all for the low low cost of $0.  It seriously begs the question why would you have two events running side by side offering relatively the same thing and expect people to attend the one with the $10 entrance fee! Madness!

There is the underlying fact that these sorts of events are not indicative of the food or standard of food at the the stalls' parent location.  One example is The Pot Food and Wine tent offering  bbq'd chicken "salad" plate in a wrap or a cup, it looked unimpressive and drab.  I would hazard a guess that The Pot Restaurant actually serves a much more interesting menu on King William Rd.

Any way after some snooping and sniffing we opted for a couple of ales and a plate of paella from the combined stalls of The Tivoli Hotel and The Union Hotel, it was terrific!  The paella was smokey, very aromatic and had the perfect Calasparra rice texture.  The princeley sum of $12  a plate was worth the effort.  Calasparra rice just happens to be one of the most expensive rice varieties in the world - merely because of the location it is grown and when you are sure it is the real deal the price tag is often worth it.  The Ale was less impressive, it was more of an empirical taste test to see if James Squire had squeezed every drop of marketing worth from what is essentially a middle of the road beer.  Many years ago Golden Ale was hoppier and more vibrant, now it is well suited to a can.  Despite this biased negativity toward highly filtered ale I would have gone thirsty for cans of Hahn Super Dry seemed a punishment not fitting the crime.

I am positive for the future of the event but would like to see it progress past a few tents in a circle following the same format as all the other loosely related events.  What is wrong with one of the many grassy square's in the CBD, they seem begging to be used for such an event, divert the weekend traffic and create a focal point for foodies and socialites to gather away from the usual fringe suspects.  Imagination was definitely not at the core of the early phase of this event and neither was common sense for that matter. 

Giles

nb{It bodes poorly for the Fringe that the issue of entrance fees to a registered Fringe Festival event where the punter is obliged to spend dollars can proceed, the focus of the entire Festival has been broadened beyond any resemblance of an eclectic assemblage of artists}

Fresh, Zingy Pad Thai - Video Recipe

Sneaky Stinky Fringe - Quick Review

Just when I thought it was safe to sit on the couch of a Saturday afternoon and focus hard on turning my brain to detritus by flicking through channels of afternoon drivel - The Adelaide Fringe Festival is suddenly upon us! Once again I find myself in a City park aghast at obscene prices on low carb filth and poorly "locally manufactured" European Lager.  The eclectic gathering has its own charm, the sort of charm that squelches between your feet with moistness and smell that slip the hint - It's culture people!  Hot steaming piles of it!  As the Garden of Unearthly Delights expands to absorb more of the Eastern Parkland between North Terrace and Rundle Street the killer is now hard to recognise from the filler when smeared with all the culture. The same could be said for the food outlets: It is difficult to know what is really Fringe Food or what is a opportunistic cash rendering tent devoted to dividing you from your coin and delivering sub par quality and or quantities.  The Ozzie Gozleme, Barbecued Savoury Turkish Pastries has returned and it sits proudly at the middle ground between reasonable price and good quality.  Although it is easy to get disappointed when you see a whopping crescent shape of pastry hit the BBQ hotplate and come to the service your hopes are shattered when the crispy crust is dissected with inevitable cunning.  The Lamb Pastry is a hefty $11 and the Vegie option is equally meaty at $10.  If you take some time to consider the numbers you realise why the Ozzie Gozleme only needs one gig a year!!  Who said the food business was risky? (Only risky on your walk to your car park!)

Another blatant attempt at parting you and your earnings is Squid inc.  The maths is strikingly simple: $10 gets you some very nicely deep fried portions of squid and a few stodgy wedges.  The squid portions were tender and had a pre hot oil dusting of spice that was very subtle, mixed spice or five spice did get a mention - there was no confirmed ingredients.  The name says it all really, Squid Incorporated hints at some fairly serious behaviour, aside from the flashy wordplay...  What's wrong with Calamari Pty. Ltd. (Squid inc. is better) 

Those that lurked at the fringes of our society are the frugal and frisky, cunning and devious, dashing and daring. The labels suit the activity and the activity is well oiled and seemingly honest. However as the pages of Fringe guides become glossier and the fences get higher the muck and culture seem to muddle up in a swill of opportunism not expression and art! Most of the niches fill for a reason here at the Garden of Unearthly Delights and when you wipe away the gathering culture and are rid of the acrid smell we the punter end up looking stupid and gullible.

Giles

If we are all at the fringe, we've progressed no further than where we were before!

Cafe Salsa ~ Review

When I was a lad, young impressionable and infinitely naïve I remember my first visit to Café Salsa. Some of those images are as clear as ever, with the height of summer nearing and the day washing slowly into the evening, the sun was slicing through the palm fronds that drape above head. The interior is slick; retro cool is embellished with a few additions of chromatic colour. The food has rarely faltered, with a clear emphasis on rustic simplicity. Dishes with little confusion over the contents or their description, I feel the Cafe Salsa magic is a balanced mix of location, the season and smart food.
The menu resembles a 12” jazz album, the reverse side lists the evenings fare. Not much has changed on the menu, and for the most part I am pleased about this. The specials have hardly moved, Meatballs, Cockles and some other stuff...but first ‘Please kind sir may I have a Campari soda and lime?’

Veal Carpaccio ($13) with a crumble of parmesan and a grind of S and P is clean tasting and finely textured. I would like to see a dash of juice on top to mix with the protein and cheese, I do have wine and a sip certainly makes it sing.
White wine poached mushrooms char grilled to serve ($11.5) seemed very lonely on the large plate, it mattered little as they were devoured with a little more cracked pepper. There are other equally interesting selections and understated pizza’s to start.

From the specials list: Spaghetti with Pork and Veal Meatballs (E: $17.5 M:$19.5) Those who know this dish could profess their unrequited love, affairs and secret visits. Sweet and unctuous; the sauce and meatballs hits every note and pasta is cooked to al dente. I confess I was seduced by the Meatballs again (perhaps just to see if they still had it) and I was satisfied in all the ways I could reminisce.
The Gorgonzola Gnocchi (E$17.5 / M$19.5) is clearly homemade and the rich sauce containing every flavour of a grassy alpine slope. Walnuts, apple and has the creamy knockout of rich cheese. The gnocchi often plays second fiddle to such a major flavour but the power of the cheese would not carry this dish if the gnocchi was not top notch.
 A strongly flavoured Tiramisu ($9) was lusciously soft, the coffee gave us back the freshly sea rinsed zing. Although a tiramisu is better a few days after it is made, I am cautious of ‘slice and serve’ deserts, but how could I fault a soaked Savoiardi biscuit that never had a chance. In the airy front porch atmosphere it as much about seeing and being seen, true to form the low slung and short shorted slouch upon the slate fence waiting for their tardy friends. Salsa has made the generational leap as the understated cool now attracts those obviously seeking a venue with a little panache.
Cafe Salsa needs only to tip its cap to make its point while the rest work overtime for nil effect. I feel the warmth of a serene experience diffuse into the glowing sky as the sun glazes the deco facade: it dips into the sea.

Giles

Silly Season!

The country air is full of dust from harvesters working overtime to fill field bins before impending storms stop progress.  The ample front lawn of the family farm house is the site of the first course in what is to be memorable evening.  A French themed evening for no other reason than to enjoy some good wine with good food and hopefully the party of six is equal to the challenge. A nifty little Moet on the lawn with grilled bread with fennel, artichoke and almond dip. Perfection if only for a short while until the bubbles run out.

Sunset and the second course is served up with a little fanfare, welcome and a sneak round the table with the decanted red.  A short savoury pastry crust barely containing a caramelised onion and shallot tart with a creamy egg / cheesy surround, sided with some spinach and more parmesan atop.  The wine is from somewhere in Bordeaux, it is singular in its focus and only really gains any praise when sipped with the tart.

After a debrief of the years significant changes within the family it is on to the third course and some exciting combinations.  A beef and shallot casserole that was so aromatic and rich it requires boisterous flavours to match and support.  The starch you can clearly recognise is a puree of well cooked spuds worked into a frenzy with butter sauteed garlic and hot milk.  Not to be out done the resident wine afficianad-o casually measure out a Grand Cru Classification Chateau Dauzac Margaux '03 , tremendous in some very different aspects that my little spoilt brat of a tongue was asking for mercy.  The almost peasant origins of the dish and the earthy beginnings of the majority of the dish seemed to bolster the singular potency of the wine.  A daringly simple way to go about food and wine; no over sweetness, no gratuitous culinary showing off. Just elemental flavours of earthiness and protein, manipulated in texture to a dazzling experience.

Fourth and final dish of this rather refined New Years Eve dinner is served.  A creme caramel served with botrytis poached pears and yoghurt.  Here is the show stopper, a little bottle of Chateau d'Yquem '02 Sauternes.  Mind blowing power in such a refined wine - no wonder older vintages have earned tremendous praise I would tend to agree it is something serious and the wine world is truelly in awe of this wine.  I took a long time to enjoy this dish with wine which I will remember.

Tres` Bon!!

Giles

Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende - Review

Sunday evening in Adelaide two days after Christmas is probably the worst night of the year to try and book a table for dinner. The amount of restaurants open and the number of willing punters wishing to dine out seems sadly disproportionate. After much searching we rested on the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende. This venue used to be Charlick's Feed Store of Maggie Beer fame, Beer was the focus then and it still is today. Upon arrival we indulge in a selection of Certified Trappist Ale’s. Belgian Trappist Ale is serious beer that has significant warmth, perfect to rapidly build an appetite. The menu is extensive and could be more concise, the Belgian style Mussels or Moules dominate the starting pages so we go with the Moules Meuniere ($29.5). The Meuniere are the Belgian standard mussels steamed in white wine, butter and stock. The mix had loads of fresh herbs which added great aroma to the really salty liquid - I think 'salty' would have been ok but 'really salty' was definitely incorrect.

After a few ales there is an apparent need to provide small ballast to the rollicking. There are several Belgian themed options on the menu which could help, one of which is a Traditional Flemish Beef Stew, the Carbonade a` la Flamande`($25.9). Its tired contents included grainy mustard with cruelly treated beef in ‘claggy’ gravy. The wild mushrooms alongside were superb and took my mind off the completely unnecessary puff pastry lid of the "stew".

The Pork Rib Eye ($28.9) was well received and the cut of pork satisfied both texture and taste. The very sweet beetroot and raspberry jus was a happy thought but out of balance. The cauliflower puree was consistent in texture but had no discernable truffle aroma. The beetroot and truffle could carry this dish to far more interesting conclusions with its earthiness and aroma, but they were present in name only.

My adjacent guest had the Roast Duck Shanks ($29.9). The accompanying sweet potato puree and the coriander and ginger glaze were not complimentary. Their sweetness like the Pork dish did not favour the richness of the duck legs.

The Waterzooi - Fruits de Mer ($26.9) is a Traditional Belgian Seafood Stew. It has cream added to a similar stock as the Moules Meuniere, it was far less salty and subsequently more balanced. The salmon portions and mussels provided plenty of texture contrast to small potatoes. It was free of head scratching moves of sweet sauces and silly pastry lids, just simple produce in fresh creamy bisque.

Themed restaurants are rarely held accountable for their culinary sins and fail dismally in the final countdown of value for money. Luckily for the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende their restaurant trade seems merely a value adding process to the beer that really steals the show. The menu suggests a beer to have with each dish which is a worthy attempt at matching their product from the kitchen to the beer. If the Belgian Beer Cafe could create individual dishes with balance and character such as the recommended beers I am positive the food experience would be far more memorable. Until such time as things improve I will be adhering to a liquid diet at the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende.

Giles