Cafe Salsa ~ Review

When I was a lad, young impressionable and infinitely naïve I remember my first visit to Café Salsa. Some of those images are as clear as ever, with the height of summer nearing and the day washing slowly into the evening, the sun was slicing through the palm fronds that drape above head. The interior is slick; retro cool is embellished with a few additions of chromatic colour. The food has rarely faltered, with a clear emphasis on rustic simplicity. Dishes with little confusion over the contents or their description, I feel the Cafe Salsa magic is a balanced mix of location, the season and smart food.
The menu resembles a 12” jazz album, the reverse side lists the evenings fare. Not much has changed on the menu, and for the most part I am pleased about this. The specials have hardly moved, Meatballs, Cockles and some other stuff...but first ‘Please kind sir may I have a Campari soda and lime?’

Veal Carpaccio ($13) with a crumble of parmesan and a grind of S and P is clean tasting and finely textured. I would like to see a dash of juice on top to mix with the protein and cheese, I do have wine and a sip certainly makes it sing.
White wine poached mushrooms char grilled to serve ($11.5) seemed very lonely on the large plate, it mattered little as they were devoured with a little more cracked pepper. There are other equally interesting selections and understated pizza’s to start.

From the specials list: Spaghetti with Pork and Veal Meatballs (E: $17.5 M:$19.5) Those who know this dish could profess their unrequited love, affairs and secret visits. Sweet and unctuous; the sauce and meatballs hits every note and pasta is cooked to al dente. I confess I was seduced by the Meatballs again (perhaps just to see if they still had it) and I was satisfied in all the ways I could reminisce.
The Gorgonzola Gnocchi (E$17.5 / M$19.5) is clearly homemade and the rich sauce containing every flavour of a grassy alpine slope. Walnuts, apple and has the creamy knockout of rich cheese. The gnocchi often plays second fiddle to such a major flavour but the power of the cheese would not carry this dish if the gnocchi was not top notch.
 A strongly flavoured Tiramisu ($9) was lusciously soft, the coffee gave us back the freshly sea rinsed zing. Although a tiramisu is better a few days after it is made, I am cautious of ‘slice and serve’ deserts, but how could I fault a soaked Savoiardi biscuit that never had a chance. In the airy front porch atmosphere it as much about seeing and being seen, true to form the low slung and short shorted slouch upon the slate fence waiting for their tardy friends. Salsa has made the generational leap as the understated cool now attracts those obviously seeking a venue with a little panache.
Cafe Salsa needs only to tip its cap to make its point while the rest work overtime for nil effect. I feel the warmth of a serene experience diffuse into the glowing sky as the sun glazes the deco facade: it dips into the sea.

Giles