Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende - Review

Sunday evening in Adelaide two days after Christmas is probably the worst night of the year to try and book a table for dinner. The amount of restaurants open and the number of willing punters wishing to dine out seems sadly disproportionate. After much searching we rested on the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende. This venue used to be Charlick's Feed Store of Maggie Beer fame, Beer was the focus then and it still is today. Upon arrival we indulge in a selection of Certified Trappist Ale’s. Belgian Trappist Ale is serious beer that has significant warmth, perfect to rapidly build an appetite. The menu is extensive and could be more concise, the Belgian style Mussels or Moules dominate the starting pages so we go with the Moules Meuniere ($29.5). The Meuniere are the Belgian standard mussels steamed in white wine, butter and stock. The mix had loads of fresh herbs which added great aroma to the really salty liquid - I think 'salty' would have been ok but 'really salty' was definitely incorrect.

After a few ales there is an apparent need to provide small ballast to the rollicking. There are several Belgian themed options on the menu which could help, one of which is a Traditional Flemish Beef Stew, the Carbonade a` la Flamande`($25.9). Its tired contents included grainy mustard with cruelly treated beef in ‘claggy’ gravy. The wild mushrooms alongside were superb and took my mind off the completely unnecessary puff pastry lid of the "stew".

The Pork Rib Eye ($28.9) was well received and the cut of pork satisfied both texture and taste. The very sweet beetroot and raspberry jus was a happy thought but out of balance. The cauliflower puree was consistent in texture but had no discernable truffle aroma. The beetroot and truffle could carry this dish to far more interesting conclusions with its earthiness and aroma, but they were present in name only.

My adjacent guest had the Roast Duck Shanks ($29.9). The accompanying sweet potato puree and the coriander and ginger glaze were not complimentary. Their sweetness like the Pork dish did not favour the richness of the duck legs.

The Waterzooi - Fruits de Mer ($26.9) is a Traditional Belgian Seafood Stew. It has cream added to a similar stock as the Moules Meuniere, it was far less salty and subsequently more balanced. The salmon portions and mussels provided plenty of texture contrast to small potatoes. It was free of head scratching moves of sweet sauces and silly pastry lids, just simple produce in fresh creamy bisque.

Themed restaurants are rarely held accountable for their culinary sins and fail dismally in the final countdown of value for money. Luckily for the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende their restaurant trade seems merely a value adding process to the beer that really steals the show. The menu suggests a beer to have with each dish which is a worthy attempt at matching their product from the kitchen to the beer. If the Belgian Beer Cafe could create individual dishes with balance and character such as the recommended beers I am positive the food experience would be far more memorable. Until such time as things improve I will be adhering to a liquid diet at the Belgian Beer Cafe Oostende.

Giles

Gaucho's Argentinian Restaurant ~ Review

Choosing a restaurant destination for some northern hemisphere guests is hard, when the time is limited and the cultural divide is wide. I think a sense of culture and place is important to any dining experience in another country and at this point some colleagues recommend Red Ochre Grill. I repost with the view that I don't necessarily believe a cultural dining experience is made from an attempt to create a singular Australian cuisine. I am leaning toward Gaucho's Argentinean Restaurant. Gaucho's is a piece of the cultural puzzle that goes into the Australian dining vernacular. Culturally diverse and generally accurate of the original migrate experience, yet deeply Australian in its ease and laid back style as well as the distinct providence of its produce. I have inhibitions about dining with several people I hardly know particularly the impending translation issues: I foresee much talk about pandas and strange marsupials.

For entree or Primer Plato the table endeavoured to try the oyster in the house style Ostras del Diablo (1/2 Doz. $19.9) which were not overly impressive despite the potential in the ingredients. The fresh Coffin Bay oysters were far more refreshing and satisfying than the value added alternative (1/2 doz. $16.9). The waitress was cool and cunning - almost mischievous sadly it was lost on our guests or so they acted. The sharing extended to a modified platter of beef, pork and fennel chorizo sausage served with fried polenta and a rocket and dried tomato salad, on this occasion our platter was embellished with large char grilled prawns and sectioned squid. The sausage was a hit and I loved the crisp, richly textured polenta. The prawns were a big letdown, dry and floury as though not fresh or overcooked or both!
I hijacked the wine list and made an intentional choice with our guests in mind, I mean to blow their head off with big bold shiraz from the Barossa Valley - Glaetzer, Bishop. (I reckon '06)
My mains choice was the Cordero, chimmi churri marinated lamb loin chops served on s-mash with chorizo and wilted spinach and pan juices ($36.9).
The rest of the table ordered from the 'Carnis' menu which sit near the $40 mark. The Vaquita Cordobesa, 350gm grass fed yearling fillet ($41.9) and the Bife de Chorizo, a 450gm grass fed bone in porterhouse ($39.5) were the two popular orders. Both cuts are aged and dry aged for 4 weeks respectively. All requests were made for medium cooking. I cringe a little when I hear any request for such large cuts of meat cooked beyond medium rare. There is significant damage done to meat on a grill whilst waiting for a medium steak to cook, of course there is a resting time and thankfully none of the meat ordered on this night showed the signs of premature plating - pooling blood or 'juice'.
Our guests went big on size and flavour to which I say ‘Well Done!’ The fillet with Shiraz and peppercorn sauce and the Porterhouse on the bone with a blue cheese sauce. Both extremely large and cooked to the order, yet their display would not speak this truth. They appeared almost black from the char grill that it is unavoidable on a medium steak of that size. The char grill can be a blessing and a curse to the flavour of meat, try not to order beyond Medium rare and you will discover more to the beef
However, the lamb had terrific flavour with the sweet, rich aroma that fills your head. The dish was lacking some balance away from the rich and pungent lamb; the wilted spinach barely carried its own against the powerful marinade. I looked to my glass to balance my meal as I found no match on the plate and took to guzzling the Bishop. As no one else seemed interested in the vino I was allowed to revel in the quality lamb and wine.
The preparation and consumption of such serious cuts of meat is as much about perception as about what is going on around it, Gaucho's do a very good job of keeping the cut of meat the star and the supporting roles are kept as such. Gaucho's would struggle without the supporting players like sauces, wine, linen, providence and cheery, diligent service. An Argentinean restaurant seems a relatively simple idea: "Grill some steak and slap it on a plate". A simple idea is only as good as its execution, Gaucho's seem committed to the produce as being central to their ideal. The providence of each cut is labelled clearly on the menu as well as the type and length of aging which is no mean feat when fluctuating trade can reap havoc on the bottom line. Gaucho’s is as much about professionalism as it is about the meat, go once in your life and enjoy the whole package not just the choice cuts.

Giles

Indian Temptations - Review

A former colleague of mine suggested to me I should try the curry at this little place near the intersection of Main North and Grand Junction Roads. I took this good advice for several reasons: For one he was humorously known as “The Guru” and two... other reasons seem to fade once a Guru has recommended a worthy curry pilgrimage. The previously mentioned intersection has long been a cancerous scar on the landscape, nothing good can come from fifteen lanes of maddening traffic converging at one point. From a culinary perspective you might imagine the teeming thoroughfares of Asia with plentiful delights to be found at their verge, but here at this insidious latitude there is only a Burger joint and The Gepps Cross Hotel with only shattered glass and carbon monoxide to shepherd you onward.

My first experience of Indian Temptations’ was a quick Friday night take away order to fill the void, I called in my order and I am invited to bring my own bag – good thinking. I enter the allotted time after and I find a teeming venue, heavy and potent with spice and humidity of deep fryers and broilers going at full tilt. As I wait in line I spy some paper bags leaving with nearly every order. These bags hold freshly cooked Naan coming from the cylindrical brick walled oven. Indian Temptations’ stocks have just risen significantly, this shows real commitment to cooking in a genuine and authentic manner. There is Tandoori Chicken hanging from their skewers and naan bread miraculously clinging to the super heated walls of the oven – Superb. I place a late order for a plain Naan and I am told curtly that there will be a fifteen minute wait. Popularity has gripped this little oven and its attendant is feverishly working to keep the dockets moving. I cancel my order, and prepare to pay and leave... Belatedly I am offered a Naan that was to fill an upcoming order by the cashier and she smiles as I happily accept. An extremely wise move – If only she’d known. The Tandoori oven chef was damn near fuming now that he was in back order! As a first time at any Indian restaurant I stick with the favourites, I feel it a reasonable way of benchmarking against other similar venues. A Lamb Roganjosh ($10.9) was first and a reasonable effort but the term “Lamb” irked me a little, the meat was terrifically pungent more like sheep and would discourage some but certainly not me. The Butter Chicken ($10.9) had a smokey (Tandoori Oven) quality and was its point of difference over many mediocre efforts in the local area, a delightful change. It’s rich, sweet sauce could have used some more punch but it very well could have un-balanced the dish. About now I feel a vegetarian option might round out the experience, so a Channa Massala ($7.9) is chosen mostly for its mighty spice kick. Since having the Channa Massala the first time I have had it two other times since. It has large, fresh chick peas cooked in a powerful mix of cardamom, ginger and more – the spiel indicates a “special blend” – they are quite right. I am completely taken by Indian Temptation’s special version, I can only imagine that this is what a curry should really feel and taste like. Other dishes tasted and heartily consumed on different occasions include a Beef Korma ($10.9) which was creamy but too salty to really hit the mark. The Beef Vindaloo ($10.9) however was so powerful it nearly forced me into a sweat, my dining partner and I concurred that it was a serious curry and not child’s play! Worth the pilgrimage merely to be allowed to wear a T-Shirt stating the fact of your survival! A huge mention should go to the Samosa Chat ($9) a mash up of deep fried Samosa, Tamarind Chutney, Yoghurt, Chick Peas and Mint sauce. Utterly fantastic! It is not much to look at but as though the Guru had whispered to my soul, my tastebuds buzzed with the serene mixture of tart tamarind and minty yoghurt – Oh my deity! The side dishes are all present and all at reasonable prices, my tip would be that a Steamed Rice ($3.50) Small is enough for two people sharing two curries. Also give the pappadam’s a miss, not because they are inferior – the Naan is so much better. Fresh Plain Naan ($2) or Fresh Garlic Naan ($2.5).

I happily return my thoughts to my Guru, as I know he will hear them. But for the uninitiated I will spell it out. Indian Temptations is a very good reason to negotiate the Junction of two of Adelaide’s clogging arteries; its place is very secure with loyal clientele so get in early while it’s still relatively unknown. The opportunity to experience flavours unique and so genuine the teeming traffic on the road out front just adds to the drama, perhaps delivering the bustling experience of one of India’s great cities.

Giles

Estia Restaurant - Review

I admire few cultures less than ours here in the South of Australia. The climate alone is more congenial to socialising. Only a few worldly locations seem more enticing when you consider their native cuisine. Greece always appears when I write any sort of list of favourites, I don’t have to think it merely etches itself onto my foolscap. Recently I have sought after newer Greek venues to see if they have what it takes to test the real performers in Adelaide, the answer is no. Real performers are not so boisterous or bloated that they forget their place, but they’re industrious in their accumulation of golden stars, loyal clientele and success! Estia Restaurant has achieved a little niche on Henley square just adjacent to a hotel with so much spoilt testosterone it shall go unnamed. I am sure Estia has seen its fair share of bulging arms beneath obscenely small shirts yet they maintain a steady course for their ultimate goal of customer service and flavourful Greek Food. We booked well in advance and warned that there could be a toddler and the odd pram involved. No problem – yet when we arrived we were at the front door. That’s a small problem. Straight off the bat it is a standard order of dips and bread – of course, get to know your Greek restaurant by their dips and pita. (Dips $12.5 Pita $1.50/serve) Sparkling Ale will start you right for the afternoon especially on such a spectacular spring day. I know I never should do such a thing but I order without looking at the menu, knowing each of my favourites is set in stone on this menu. Loukaniko, grilled sausage ($14), and Pickled Octopus ($17.5) are my first predictions. Once again I would happily judge a lazy Saturday Greek restaurant on these dishes, and would be intrigued if they did not. There was a relatively small bowl of Prawn Saganaki for $17.5 which was quickly overlooked when I noticed the grilled meat had arrived. A large stainless oval platter with miniature Greek salad and a bed of brown rice or buck wheat set the scene for some superbly tender BBQ Lamb ($16.9) and even better BBQ Quail ($15) quarters. The little creatures had certainly not suffered in vain, I was revelling in such terrific morsels of meat I failed to tuck into any Patates ($9) and just got some Greek Salad (small $7). But neither mattered I was still enjoying the bird and bleating lamb, it almost momentarily distracted me from the toddler cracking his head repeatedly without a wince on low flying furniture. Hilarious! There was one small hitch, a Moussaka ($16.9) with meat which is another Greco catering test. Our very particular dining partner made very sure there would be no review of it so it shall remain a mystery, but the fact this individual is not willing to share this dish on any occasion must be a compliment to the dish, or else my name isn’t George-Yeah!?
Socialising is what the Greeks do best... gees, they created the whole concept of sitting around eating, drinking and generally having a good old time. And now in ’09 they charge others for the experience, did they create that one too? When Greek food is good it seems effortless, food rolls out the kitchen, the staff are well honed and you wonder why you would ever need to eat anything else. Estia achieved this on a sunny September lunch service, they are clearly a real performer without being distracted by the testosterone ‘guns’.

Giles

The Brunswick - Review

The world has its way of telling you something, but how do you tell a chef to pay attention to the details when they are working split shifts 6 days a week in a tiny pub kitchen. The Brunswick had been on my list of pubs to eat at since they removed the corrugated verandah from the saloon bar. So a mild Wednesday evening in August comes around and the city pub meal seems very enticing.
I step into a neatly organised saloon bar no longer resembling the themed farmhouse of years past, the fashionable interior highlighted with antique furniture and homogenous art. The classic features have been effectively highlighted, like the floorboards, terrazzo bar frontage and the pressed metal verandah ceiling.
The pub menu is a much pondered subject... Does a pub take stance and say no to gastronomic influences and continue with ‘Roast of the day’ and ‘Seafood baskets’? I am recently inclined to think that the food and the decor should match, such as a restaurant. The short walk through the front bar to the saloon and around a delightful seated area to the dining room brings the decor to just on level with a reasonable restaurant. The menu reads well with some interesting inclusions and some pub standards. Note no beef or veal schnitzel, big call!
We are interested in a Brunswick Platter ($22.9) on the short starters list, it arrives very promptly which I would have expected on a quiet evening. It held a few surprises for the table, which suited the Steam Exchange Stout we were sampling off tap. Oysters and stout, poached star anise pears and stout, Grilled chorizo and anything! These were really good combinations to start a meal, my thoughts in particular were racing, beer included of course! The specials list had some great options which put the hard decision with our table and we required more Stout and the wine list. A bottle of fairly generic ‘Gamekeepers’ Shiraz Grenache 07 was requested and an 08 was delivered. Do I have grounds for complaint? Oh well, it was just the ticket for the diverse range of meals ordered. I attacked a grilled Pork Cutlet ($22.9) with Cheese tart and beans with a fig glaze I forget those details as the glaze and tart had chilled significantly since its preparation waiting for its porcine keystone. My immediately adjacent diner had ordered from the specials, Eye Fillet ($22.9) with a mash, wild mushrooms and a glaze the details are again hazy as the mash and the sauce were heading south in degrees. It was cooked correctly as was the pork and both were very tender serves. On hearing the ‘chilled’ news I whip round the table with queries of “Cold?”. The responses were mixed, the Stuffed Crispy Skin Chicken Breast ($23.9) with roast capsicum coulis arrived hot but its accompanying risotto tower was chilled at its base and warm elsewhere. The chicken was stuffed with an under seasoned mix of spinach, ricotta and pine nuts. The Red Curried Snapper ($22.9) from the specials was suitably heated although there were mumblings of the curry being to overpowering, I would contest that Red Curry is specifically formulated to be overpowering. The Chicken Schnitzel ($16.5) is offered with lemon, it appeared to be standard Pub Schnitzel effort but the crumb seemed to have received some special treatment I could not pick, but well worth the price tag. I didn’t really care if the chips were cold against the plate, as there is a distinct line in the sand when it comes to serving a dish with a specific sauce and offering deep fried beds of chips to lay your crumbed protein upon. The allowances given to the pub oriented meals are justified, as for the more refined dishes I would reference the restaurant quality decor and question why the kitchen procedure does not match.
On this evening the plates were cold, otherwise the meals would’ve impressed. The Brunswick Hotel kitchen has done almost everything right, smart menu with diverse choice to coax the blinkered diner away from the TAB. The world is cold and harsh sometimes even on a mild August evening.

Giles

Footnote: Rip it Up Mag has a bad habit of trimming the odd sentence or stanza from the printed reviews. So it is best to get the full review here....

My Fair Farina - Quick Bite Review

Farina Kitchen Bar was our choice for a quick Saturday evening bite before hitting the town with a leave pass from the 2month old Son care of Nanna. We slipped in very early to beat any rush and catch the Chefs before they are flooded with their first rush of orders. We sipped on some German made Pilsner and looked down a menu that is highlighted by interesting use of ingredients - The would make any Foodie Happy! But for not so intrepid eaters it is a little confronting as they are limited to a few choices as they shy away from new experiences or old ideas of how things taste. I am finding the choices so enticing I would like to try several, choices made tougher by a limited selection of Wines by the glass. So with my choice of wine driving the dinner choice I move toward a Scorpo Chardonnay 06 I think, this puts me in line for the Rabbit Leg or Confit Duck. I could have really gone to Foodie town with Lambs Brain Ravioli with garlic, entree size only - Lambs really aren't that smart! I decide with my large brain (ha!) to have the Braised Duck. The wine arrived near frozen and had nothing of the richness I was after - thankfully It warmed up significantly in my palms before my duck arrives... The instant pungency of the game'y leg and mustard fruit that adorns this classic little dish is a welcome change form recent meals, the lentils and diced veg is knee deep in an amazingly rich and rounded jus. I am happy to see such a well crafted dish is not confused with other textures and dotted by silly little garnishes that rarely add any benefit to a dish. My partner maintained their trajectory toward the waiting pub, a pilsner and a the swimmer crab risotto. Hooray I spy fresh shucked peas - A gold Star for this kitchen! If you know the sculleryblog you will know my dislike of packet peas in a dish nearing $30 - $7.50 Counter meal Roast yeah ok. But not in a "Restaurant" Unfortunately the Rice was still a little firm and not quite finished - people will tell you that Risotto should be creamy and not stiff, but it's all for nothing if the Arborio is on the tough side of correct. Some more Crispy spuds with garlic rosemary and salt to keep the beer in check and we were gone. A lovely quiet meal in a neat venue, despite showing some unfinished bits its intention is certainly not lost on this blogger - I would happily return for more and perhaps splurge a little more. All in the name of critical reference for all those who appreciate it!Giles

Argo Hellenic Cafe Restaurant - Review

I have a vivid imagination and could quite easily describe my vision of a smart Greek eatery on the main drag of the up’n’up Port. Long wide dark timber floors greet you as you push the small heritage shopfront door into a lengthy dining room. An olive skinned person smiles as they usher you to a table on the long softly textured wall which hangs tasteful vistas of the Aegean or Mykonos. The lights teeter between eye level and head high as they warmly comfort your eye toward crisp paper below polished, casually set cutlery and sturdy glassware. Sigh!
I am expectant of some clean Greek flavours with hearty meat options, this is mostly my optimism kicking in as the menu is light on adjectives. The bare minimum is committed to enticing us into our choices, although I know the potential of each of the Mezede and Entree. If all goes well our wallets could get away with a sneaky Greek feast! The dips of our choice were good, pita warm and servings enough to keep you interested yet contented. The Skordalia, potato garlic dip was smooth and powerful. The litmus test of any Greek Restaurant the Tzatziki was thick and crisply flavoured with correct pungency. A new experience for our table was the Kopanisti, a Creamy fetta laden with olive and chilli. So simple and effective. A small stack of handmade Dolmades, seasoned rice filled vine leaves and the Loukaniko Cyprus, Grilled Cyprus Sausage were both heat and serve options and survived the journey. The pickled Octopus, Octapodi Xidato was a let down to our start, lacking any pickled quality at all. I am more confident now that we have overcome the initial shock of our arrival to Hellenic Argo. It was a little different to what I’d imagined. Our host has a very awkward way of interacting and he seems to be alone tonight in his role as maitre d’, head waiter and barman. There is only one Indian chef (?) and no grandma’s to be seen. The dining room is extremely harshly lit, almost equal lux with an electronics assembly line. We are seated smack in the middle of a pretty much empty dining room which was not exactly the most hospitable move, seeing as more cosy options were available.
Let’s be clear, “Rustic” food is not a magical cloak to hide your culinary sins. Rustic just happens to be the outcome of centuries old tradition unchanged by progressing trends or haughty flings. Rustic is unwavering commitment to what clearly works. The Moussaka ($16.5), layered eggplant, potato mince and cheese was neatly presented in an earthenware dish which added a lovely method of spooning out the piping hot ingredients. The lamb ($19.5) was carrying scars of a char grill with fresh volcanic rock, dusty, smoky and definitely overcooked. The reverse treatment was administered to the Quail which was taken up with management by a distressed punter nearby. Raw and near flight! Traditionally a quail should be medium with plenty of time spent on low heat to permeate the little bones and win the battle with their sinew and relent to the nibbling teeth that wait. We skipped the bird. The fact that our neighbouring diner felt so motivated to talk to the chef about his inadequately cooked dish is definitely a sign. The Braised Baby Goat pieces were still pungent and textural after many hours of heat treatment, however it was on the dry side it must be said. And the solo accompaniment of soggy spuds looked sad as they surrounded the pond of pan juice which had none of the clarity of flavour it required, it was just muddled stock, oil and cooked out herbs. Sorry Sir, Rustic has the night off. I could leave the rest of this short review blank with many readers being clear in their thoughts about what Argo Hellenic has to offer them. Others may ask: Does Argo have potential though? Sadly not in the few good signs or was it whipped into shape by the razor sharp words of an unhappy “Wharfie”. But you could see a place like this becoming popular for the wrong reasons and developing a rough and ready clientele who already know there is not much to offer so treat it thus. The totality of the evening including wine offerings seemed passable upon reflection of the bill, but some of the flavours were not as potent as I clearly remember from tremendous Greek experiences throughout our city and suburbia. If I had to scale this restaurant on some sort of numerical scale I would have to dust off some of the lower digits that rarely get used in this city.


Giles

Note: Next time you are reading the The Local "Rag" check out their numerical scaling system and its obvious inconsistencies!!

Jerusalem Sheshkabab House - Review

Falafel is a mystery, an enigma where all the components are clear yet the resultant form can be as the changing weather is torrid and nasty or light and fluffy. Jerusalem Sheshkabab House has been serving tremendous Falafels since 1972. They are lightly textured inside and encased by a crunchy crust, UFO shaped and so consistent it is like they are cloned from a perfect specimen taken from the ancient city itself. Devotees of this quirky restaurant know it is consistent but this is not the main reason for its long lived success. Like the Falafel so many aspects of Jerusalem contribute to the enticing, invigorating experience. Owner Michael Merhi informs me after re acquainting ourselves that his father Steve started the small business back when the western world was learning to love its multicultural cuisine, I suspect Adelaide was barely coming to grips with it even then. My earliest memories of the dimly lit, authentic venue is the low slung fabric ceiling that I could almost touch with my outstretched hand and now I have to tilt my head to miss. First time patrons are instant fans of Jerusalem, amazed that the food is always served quickly, cheaply and without fuss and sometimes with gruff. Enter on a Saturday evening and you might struggle to find an empty table, barter and plead a little and you will be rewarded. BYO is the cheapest in the city ($1.50) and on a busy night remember a bottle opener – cos’ you could go thirsty. A tribute to the efficiency and style of the venue is that no one ever stays as long as they initially intended. The food arrives before you can check for extra bread, Michael knows there is money to be made as tables turn over several times a night. Another ingredient in the Jerusalem mix is the short menu with highlights like Hummus $7.50 and Babaganoush $8, both which bare the signs of a swiftly ladled spoon smoothing them underneath the spice and oil. There are plates of Tahini $6.50, Yoghurt $6.50 (and cucumber) and Tabouli $7.50 salads that are mostly fresh but can vary. My pick is always the cooling Yoghurt salad. Warm quarters of flat bread are served in a retro plastic basket, take note it is not a sin to run out of bread before accompanying dishes but it is on the contrary. Further down the menu are favourites like flattened thumbs of Lamb Kafta $13 in spicy yoghurt sauce, florets of Cauliflower $10 are on offer with the same sauce but no one seems to mind. Upstairs there is a function room available for banquets, and they wave the BYO fee and throw in a belly dance!
Heated political debate, artistic turmoil, free thinking socialism, right winged conservatism all squeeze and jostle for position in the glossy red booths. As if on queue the eternal struggle reappears as guests eye off a lonely falafel, both sides stake their claim, bread poised at the ready to scoop up the pillow of chick peas, herbs and spice and douse it in forgotten dip. Such conflicts can be resolved with more diplomatic Hummus and no one leaves empty or dissatisfied. Jerusalem Coffee $3 and Baclava $3 is one of the final ingredients to the success of Jerusalem Restaurant, a little aromatic punch reinforced by the honey spiced pastry. Each time I return to Jerusalem my faith is reaffirmed by their authentic Middle Eastern food, charming interior with loads of character, cheap, fast, and consistent yet still the mystery remains intact.

Giles

Three Cafe Corner - Review

It is well known that North Adelaide is the richest and possibly the most conservative suburb in Adelaide. It has a cluster of Cafes and Restaurants mostly clinging to the vein that is O’Connell St, few stray further as the exposure is limited elsewhere. It all comes to head at the corner of Tynte St. and O’Connell St where three cafes face off. It is beyond my limited memory to know or remember what existed in any of the spots before these venues, as it seems none of them have changed dramatically in 15 years. There could be a reason why they have not changed in so long, but on recent review there is good reason why they should.

Caffe Paesano: Paesano has been the more successful of the three over the years but more recently they have let their usually reasonable standard slip. The proof is in a mediocre Fettucine Alla Casalinga (E: $15, M: $17.50) which lacked any of the richness or punch you would expect with powerful ingredients as capers, sun dried toms and sausage. The Gnocchi with Chilli Prawns in a rose` sauce (E: $17.50, M: $20.50) was satisfactory, and their cakes are always nice as a little take home treat. They still have terrific Gelatti but I am unsure if it is made onsite as they used to advertise years ago... I was once a fan of Paesano when it provided the hustle and bustle of a humming Caffe, the mounting competition seems to be taking its toll. Maybe they will finally turn off all the neon lights?
Fellini Cafe: Fellini made the move recently to provide table service to punters, it sets it apart from the standard Cafe routine of mingle, deliberate, order and scout for a table all at once. With a wood fired oven central to their menu, you can count that they are not going to let some “Joe Shmo” handle such an important task and the pizza’s are quality to boot. I am still at odds with their interior decorating choices of scary portraits: These would have cost too much to just paint over, but somebody should cos’ Marylin Monroe ain’t lookin’ that flash. The Margherita ($18.90) is my tip, use your knife and fork and sip your red slowly, remember the fold and stuff died with Pizza Hut. There is a reason this pizza is on every pizza menu in the world and Fellini’s effort is worth a try at least until the art freaks you out.
Scuzzi Cafe: These guys should just shut up shop, or maybe just sell puncture repair kits! The layout of the tables defies logic with dodgy Motel Lobby armchairs putting you inches below the ideal eating height, I see many elderly struggling with elbows and knives cocked and skewed as they wonder why they didn’t sit at the table like normal people. I sample their Lasagne ($15) and my dining partner tries the Saltimbocca Fungi ($21). Only the lasagne passes just with a salty gasp! The Veal was tough and dry, not one or the other which is almost forgivable given the price of really good veal. Our waiters walked in the back door of the wrong business this evening, they looked completely out of sorts – lost even. The only reason you would go there if you had a sweaty voucher wedge in your lycra bike shorts for a free meal, but clearly you have no shame all ready so off you push!
Tynte and O’Connell are the address of Adelaide’s best restaurant’s and some of the worst, with the amount of choice offered just a few doors either side you could do much better than these three but you might want to slip in for a slice of wood fired pizza, tiramisu or have your bike stolen before these old haunts disappear forever.

Giles

Footnote: There seems to have been plenty of room for error in the recent past for Italian Cafe's, good times and plenty of punters. Now that KRuddy has uttered the big "recession" punters will go back into their shells and those venues that have not been cutting the mustard or have not got their finger into some sort of laundering or organised crime junket will fold! Keep your eyes peeled...

The Lady Daly Hotel - Review

This little Hotel has undergone some cosmetic alterations in recent months and is transformed from the rough and ready Territorian Hotel to the white washed Lady Daly Hotel. The “re-upholstering” has made the space slightly more palatable, but we are here for the Bistro Menu and not its misguided style.
Despite the menu looking a little more renovated than the Hotel it is swerving toward a modern Café style serving more salads & fish than pasta. Some exciting inclusions are the Marinated Kangaroo Fillet, Lambs Livers and Double Smoked Bacon and Famous Pork Ribs (1kg) the self appointed title of “Famous” is a tad presumptuous.
I tested the menu with the 400gm aged Rump from W.A. and my dining partner opted for the Pub benchmark test of the Veal Schnitzel, which had strangely found its way onto the specials board. The menu describes the chicken schnitzels as being fried which is a new tactic for a pub kitchen to actually advertise with the truth for a change, the accompanying mushroom sauce was passable with a boosted fungus potency (Special $14.90 /Menu $15.90 inc sauce + $3 for parmi).

The aged rump was cooked as requested and was tender throughout as it should be for $29.90, the spicy chutney along side was terrific and well worth selling separately. I later sampled The Traditional Fish and Chips, ($13.90) its simple presentation was refreshing. Crumbed Garfish ($15.90) is also available as a separate dish. The shoestring fries that adorn most of the dishes are a perilous choice with the majority of us accustomed to them portioned in iconic packaging which make them off limits for any self respecting venue. And another thing… It was once a subversive sales ploy to tack on 90 cents at the end of a price tag but I think these days the smart punter knows better, or at least the venue should know better than to try. When Pub meals are hitting the thirty dollar mark without justification there is cause for concern. Pubs need punters and unjustified overpriced food is not going to entice anyone, The Lady Daly Hotel is not immune from this truth. My advice would be to source locally from the Adelaide region to help someone justify paying $30 for a steak.

It is a grand little dining room that could be sculpted into something quite beautiful, especially with smart pub fare and smarter choices to target the right sort of clientele. For the moment the Lady Daly is at the crossroads and looking at two options, one being an opportunity to be a small stylish venue offering a wonderfully unique experience the other being unthinkable. I would love to see the Lady Daly Hotel carve out a name for itself as a boutique Pub providing a beacon for those gone astray. But for the time being they are having a tough time taking the territory out of the Lady.

Giles

Enzo's - "Pinch myself" Review

I am as scepticle as the next person, I write reviews, I criticise and I rarely praise. When something is special I am inclined to pinch myself to see if it is real and I wasn't tired, drunk or out of my head. So I took a recent opportunity to return to Enzo's to try a "Pinch Myself" test.


Once again Enzo's has safely slid the bat over the crease, I was impressed that on a Wednesday evening in suburban Adelaide it was busy, really busy. Everytime I enter the quirky yet comfy surrounds of Enzo's it seems to be busy, Thursday lunch, Wednesday dinner, Friday dinner, Cafe included. The service has not faltered, the quality has not slipped. I am pleased to have taken my opportunities to return and confirm that yes it is as good as I say it is. (WTF?) Take your mother there, your grandmother, your girlfriend and your newborn child (everyone else does) and tell eleborate stories involving large hand movements!!

The evidence was not left on the plate.

Giles

Enzo's Ristorante - Review

It would be logical to think that hospitality would progress with the leaps and bounds of other industries, but you would be sadly mistaken. Hospitality is a brutal two faced monster that rarely lurches from its dark cave to see the wonders and amazement of other futuristic industries whizzing by. This monster which so many people love & hate with equal vehemency, provides so much to our daily lives. We rely on the friendly service to make our lives enjoyable and their food to nourish us and the booze to forget those not so nourishing or enjoyable times. But this monster we call hospitality is often so comforting, friendly and warm you rarely want to leave the cosiness it has created.
My most recent example of the cosiness and warmth comes from one of Adelaide's dining highlights. Enzo’s Ristorante has not changed dramatically in a relatively long time, for this we are truly grateful. With friends in tow and a bottle of something rare and fabulous under my arm we enter the stuccoed cave like interior.
It is important to book in advance as such a popular venue often packs out and stays that way, tonight a function in the courtyard settle in with families clinking festively. We snuggle close together in the corner and with a peripheral view to the rear of the restaurant we can spy the happy punters enjoying themselves in and around the archways which break up the space of the Ristorante.
We order after some deliberation about who was having what and why. Lets not all have the same dish though you could quite easily do it – “Four bowls of pasta thanks – PRONTO” and satisfaction would be yours. After some rustic garlic bread and some stuffed olives which was reasonably priced we pursued our mains. I went for the dish made famous by the visually challenged singer Mr. A. Bocelli, who has the naming rights apparently. Braciolette di Vitello di Andrea Bocelli, an ensemble of brilliantly pungent smokey stuffed veal rolls, accompanied by some less than brilliant wilted witlof and broad beans which had suffered for its cause and was showing all its ailments. The veal was significantly powerful enough to carry this dish. I enjoyed the dish but was a little jealous of my fellow diners who made wiser choices with the pasta. A Spaghetti ala Buzzera was a fresh prawn and creamy cognac piece of inspiration. I could have eaten the whole lot but would have had to wrestle the plate from my partner. A Fettucine Tartuffo… was equally as good as the Spaghetti, it did not last long though the scent of truffles got my friend so worked into a frenzy it was gone in record time. A Free range Chicken Breast Wrapped in Prosciutto with Gorgonzola Bake was real comfort food with the skill of experience on its side, moist chicken stuffed with spinach to clean through the richness of a gorgonzola potato bake. No obscure names, no unrecognisable ingredients with incongruous preparations, just the honest truth – but in Italian.
We must have been like putty in their hands at this stage, the deserts somehow appeared and we had to try the powerful Tiramisu, it would have been totally un - Australian. There was also a Fig Pudding which was so delectable it had my eyeballs peering at my frontal lobe. A shot of good espresso for me and sweet wine for someone else to push their kilojoule count to the point of no return was the final seal of approval that Enzo’s deserved.
Enzo’s were busy, really busy yet we did not feel forgotten or less than a loyal customer. I made some silly remark to our fabulous waiter about a wine I had in my cupboard at home that was similar to one on his shelf from Italy, he smiled and responded with a gratifying remark that maintained our happy interplay. I realised I had been wrong on closer inspection, but realised that is the Enzo’s that people don’t often see. They strive for the effortless customer service while the monster churns within. Suffering some foolish comment while the restaurant waits for no one. The big cuddly monster is, working, thinking and striving to maintain the experience for everyone at the same time. A very worthy goal and obviously achievable.

Giles

The Garden of Unearthly Delights - Review

Every Fringe Festival I decide on a last minute ticket to see some struggling comedian from the other side of the world or spend a boozy night at the dusty Garden of Unearthly Delights. However, this time I kept it together long enough to try some culinary delights - hopefully? I see the return of some old favourites – the return of some not so favourites. Oh! And it definitely would not be The Garden without crap beer and dead grass everywhere.
A few new additions are the Gourmet Mexican stand and The Crepe Escape. These stalls may have been present in past years but as I mentioned I was very drunk at the time. The ingredients before you at the Mexican stand are fresh and well presented, my burrito is made to order and the result is a cold, doughy mass of cheese – not fun.
The Crepe Escape offer delicious cooked batter with a few select ingredients. The results are delightful, substantial crepes worth the coin. The Golden Syrup Crepe ($5) was a perfect after show treat. Adelaide is not taking to the crepe sensation, business is slow and I would hate to see these guys cope with a rush of hungry show goers. One point of interest was the ‘hippycrit’ that served our crepe on a styrofoam tray.
Ozzie’s Turkish Pastry flagship dish is their stuffed savoury BBQ’d pastries. The size of these stuffed pastries are deceptive as you ogle the BBQ’ing breads of ample size and are ready to tuck into what seems a bargain of foot long proportions – and you receive merely half. The taste of the spicy lamb spinach and fetta filled bread is terrific ($9). Well worth their cunning sales tactic. They do dips and olives and serve on recyclable paper plates – good form.
Beyond India are here in force as expected. Their steady rise to the pinnacle of festival food service is justified. Go for the Butter chicken or Vindaloo, Naan & Raita if standing in their line up undecided. These guys do it well and you realise why when you see them pump out the curries at WomAdelaide, North Adelaide Food and Wine Fest, Tasting Australia and here at the Fringe. Spiffy pressed fibre plates and wooden cutlery - Consummate pro’s!
Sadly there are a few sluggish venues dragging their feet. The Quiet Waters serve up reasonable value nutrition but may not appeal to your sense of style. It tends to resemble a sloppy gruel. The Chip Cone stall is fast growing old – it is tricky packaging to deal with and more often than not soggy and sad. Not worth your dollars. For the kids or little people there is the Sweet and Sour Candy stall which seemed well positioned between the Gelatissimo servery and the useless knick knack sellers.
The choices are many and varied at The Garden which is one Gold Star for food but minus one for the lack of imagination in the drinks sheds. When I think of the choices at poorly catered festivals such as the Royal Show I recoil at the thought of DagWood chomping, flossed up show goers, but at least I can enjoy decent local ale.
My tip for The Garden of Unearthly Delights is send friend A to get some BBQ’d Turkish bread from Ozzie’s, friend B to get some curries to share from Beyond India, Friend C to find a table where you won’t be roped into holding some smelly freaks unicycle in front of the greedy public. You get the bottle of red wine, sit back relax and let the culture wash over you.

Giles

Charlies' Shack - Review

Charlie’s Shack should be on the ‘to do’ list of the Adelaide food lover. It has all the qualities you might find in a truly authentic Vietnamese food outlet. It’s proximity to the Central Markets and their limited storage space lends itself to having fresh ingredients all the time. It truly is a shack! It is possible that Charlie’s Shack is due to be shut down at any time, let’s hope the inspector is a fan. Most of the time you barely get a smile when you arrive and I often feel as though I am interrupting their nightly comedy sitcom by ordering. ‘Grandma’ does all the delivering of orders, and she gets busy when the place fills up with 7 people in the tiny space. I order the Special Dumpling Soup ($6.50), Regular Beef Pho ($7) and some Cold Rolls ($4.50) for the two of us. You have to clamber over recent deliveries to order and scour the fridge for a cold drink beside the beef mince, herbs, vegetables and Chinese Milk products. It is all highly risky practise, but I love, love, love it! Charlies’ Pho is a hearty serve with plenty of beef slices and noodle to fill your boots, the dumplings are glutinous and textured inside with a hint of spice. The cold rolls are fresh with prawn, chicken and mint, and I always double dip into the amazing sauce. You have to!
Pho is the most basic of food. It is an aromatic stock served with fresh stir fried beef and vegetables, throw in some noodles and you have Vietnam’s most favoured dish. There are no big secrets involved, just the quick fresh approach that makes this dish so popular. If you get a fresh batch the stock it is sometimes a little weak – show up later that day or a few days later when the batch has reduced and the flavour intensified to really awesome heights. Don’t just try it once. Try it three to four times a week to really appreciate it.
The menu’s are sticky, the chopsticks communal and the sauce bottles un-named, you rarely have to use them as you are served some fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts, lemon wedge and sliced chilli as a fresh garnish. I always go for a bit of chillied vinegar – it moves whatever you might have thought un-movable!
Charlies does not serve alcohol which is a reasonable proposal – I would love a BYO policy but you can’t have it all when the food is so cheap and so very delicious. This place is a shining beacon of fast fresh food – not a processed patty, sesame seed bun or rubber cheese slices in sight. I wish these sorts of restaurants were everywhere because we would all be thin and fabulous, instead of fat and horrible!
Everything is available takeaway, and I would recommend taking some Cold rolls home if you need to be reminded of the genius.
But please do not whinge to me when it all comes out in a hurry. No you’re not sick! It is just that you’re not quite ready for all that salty, spicy liquid just yet. Keep going and you’ll get the Charlie’s Shack knack.

Giles

Note:

I know I have done a spot review of Charlies before but it is good!

The Most of Moseley Square, Glenelg - Review

For most of us the luxury of eating out is not taken for granted, we choose our venue and we booked in advance, we show up on time and we enjoy ourselves.
When summer becomes stupidly hot all you crave is the cool of the beach and a lemon gelato. Priorities quickly change to your umbrella, towel, water, hat, 30+ and tennis ball – but what about food. It is easy to realise why some of the venues on Moseley Square, Glenelg are to be avoided like the plague. It’s not just because of the plague however you might meet your unfortunate end at the hands of ill treated meat or a clumsy bouncer with a head full of nothing.
Here are some ice cold tips for Glenelg Café eating…

The Dublin Hotel.

This is one of those plagued venues, but if you must seek out the Blue Cheese Pizza with Fig, Rocket and Caramelised Onion $16. It may keep you going just long enough till you see the price of a pint!! Other than that there is very little going for this place, except for a sore neck as you are glued to one of hundreds of TV’s.
Gringo’s Mexican Cantina.
I used to want to work there, now I only wish to drink there: Sangria at $14.50 for a ½ Litre or $20 for the full Carafe is the best way to really give your sun stroke a kick along. If you must eat the Nacho’s are as you would expect – but please request more heat. Nacho’s Small $17.00, Large $20.50.
Mamma Carmela Café Pizzeria Est 1974.
There has been a Café in this spot as long as many could remember and Mama’s has had the best of it in these more cosmopolitan times. They recently shut for what seemed an exceedingly long time for a paint job. Never get a chef to do a painter’s job. Other than a fresh coat of paint nothing much has changed, and for this I am truly grateful. They do what they do without fuss or excess. My pick for value for money is the Calzone Rustico, pizza pastry filled with mozzarella, salami, ham, olives, capsicum, mushrooms, topped with bolognaise sauce. $16 “Bargain!” Maybe you could wash some dishes for a glass of Red?
Crema on Jetty.
Crema on Jetty has replaced the very popular Café Miramare`, not much of the décor has changed and the wood fired pizza oven remains. This list of pizza is the best value at Moseley Square. My pick is the Goats Cheese, Capsicum, shaved ham and fresh basil. 9” $16.50 12” $19.50.

Lungomare Cafe.
I am not sure why this place stays open, perhaps there is someone who mysteriously opens it up every day – Cos’ there are never any customers in there to warrant it.
Europa at the Bay.
Europa draws their line in the sand with the price tag, clearly keeping the smelly, sweaty and sunburnt well away. Much the same tactic as the Good Life Pizza up the street – Scary Price tactics! The Crab Linguine is almost worth the extra coin, and the specials do change contrary to popular belief.
Makis BBQ Eating & Takeaway.

‘Makis’ passes the $20 dollar challenge every time, with enough coin left over for a longneck. The scintillating social commentary is free!

Poor attendance resulting from poor choices is the cancer of Moseley Square. The new additions such as Drift Café and a nameless Chinese Restaurant suffer from this sameness. Venues such as these dumb it down too often to “please” customers and suffer a bland and inevitable fate, where as the savvy punter wants something new and exciting, let Mama Carmela’s do the sameness – they know what they are doing.

Giles

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar - Review

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar is a new concept in dining for Adelaide it offers a unique experience. However, the idea of Sparrow is not new. This style of venue all ready has a strong following in Melbourne in particular Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons. (Read TheSculleryBlog - GA&S Review) The similarities are striking between the two venues although Adelaide once again the poorer cousin suffers from interior compromises. Sparrow offer a sharper edge to the humble Mediterranean Cafe experience. I can only assume they see the potential in a more intrepid clientele that wishes to trade in their Cafe up O’Connell. We booked a table late in the evening to avoid the recent heat, arriving a little early we took advantage of the bar surrounding the main service area. The action around the wood fired pizza still present from past ventures at 10 O’Connell has been well utilised, and is now the source of much attention for waiting punters or those content to dine at the bar. There are many choices to start with on the menu including cured meats from the specialised cabinet and slicer which draws you near on entry. We chose to sample some Gorgonzola Arancini($3.50 each), Blood Sausage with Cauliflower and Sauternes($9) and the cute sounding Duck doughnut with porcini salt($3.50 each). These were shared with beer while we guessed what pizza the busy chef was preparing in front of us. Fun for some – but when there are four types of cheese on one pizza I think everyone wins. The Arancini was enticing enough to inspire a mains choice of Gorgonzola Gnocchi (entree $15.90). Blood sausage was an interesting lesson in texture although not lost on all present perhaps not as well taught as possible, all three components of the dish were the same consistency and didn’t define one over the other. The duck doughnut was an aromatic parcel that I am sure would have blown me away with a bold glass of white with enough power to match the tender flesh with the earthy porcini salt. I was seriously enjoying the early stages of the evening at Sparrow and reluctantly took a seat at a marble topped table. My learned wine loving accomplice chose wisely from a smart mix of wines, he insisted it breathe while we ate at the bar – You might seem like a tosser but it’s well worth it. Sparrow is not a small venue and even a steady night will mean the staff cover long distances to get the bare minimum achieved. At times the staffed looked windswept on their long journey from the bar to the courtyard and raised terrace overlooking the wilting parklands. To their credit our mains arrived simultaneously and I marvelled at the dish of Braised pork tails ($26.50), I was having second thoughts. The meat, gelatinous skin and fat was tender and rich but there was not enough and I was left hungry and ogling the gnocchi and pizza which were both better choices than the tail. Margarita Pizza ($17.90) was fresh with super sweet tomato sauce and crispy base, very nice. The Gnocchi still carried some weight, unusual for what I assumed to be fresh from the kitchen, nevertheless the gorgonzola was right on measure again very nice. The fourth dish tasted was the special wood grilled snapper with a salsa verde($29), the fish was cooked splendidly but the salsa sparked discussion over the contents of ‘a perfect salsa verde’? The reminiscence would’ve continued if we had not moved onto desert of Catalan Cream ($9) and Churros with gianduja chocolate ($8.50). The cream was rich and superbly textured and the Churros were adequate. The efforts of Sparrow are certainly not wasted as it is an emerging venue, but it will take an effort to maintain this standard of commitment to keeping an edge on more original venues.

Giles

Note:
If this review leaves you undecided on whether to go to Sparrow or not it has done it's job. I feel the same way- Perhaps I will go back to Sparrow K&B not sit at a table and rewrite this little footnote?

Archies Restaurant - Review.

Archies has labelled itself as Modern Australian meets Mediterranean, this will hopefully guide them through some of the hazy areas of modern cuisine. Like fashion, gastronomic trends are often steered off course by some industry leaders when the industry looks to them for inspiration. Archies is planning a much safer journey through choppy waters, which is a wise move for a new business in a fickle industry. The cuisine did not conform to current fashionable trends in food. There was no micro herb garnish, no foam, air or soil!

Starting with a glass of sparkling pinot noir, my head tilted as our glasses were topped with strawberry and were poured to max volume. Although a happy notion it was the start of some interesting moves by Archies, the retro nature of the fruit rimmed drink signposted an experience of past styles and loyal choices. An entree special of Oyster’s Zingara involved King Island brie, pine nuts and basil served individually atop a shot glass. Sadly the brie had lost all of its creamy allure and was stuck fast to the vertical shell but the pine nut offered an earthy boost to the chewy mouthful. Another sampled entree was handmade Pappardelle Milando pasta that had a finely textured rose` sauce that was good enough to carry the dish by itself. A tapas selection included amongst others, Potato and Zucchini fritters that were light with good crispness served with smooth aioli. The Tapas section to the menu does not really suit the style of Archies and should be selectively absorbed into the entree list. The list of mains is dominated by selections of lamb, pork, and fish. The main dishes sampled followed basic rules of protein as the focus of flavour and the starch or carbohydrate and vegetables as second string, the presentation reflected this attitude. The saucing of the dry spiced lamb cutlets was luscious and hails from bistros of yester year, a real treat that will be a signature of Archies. The Lamb was potently spiced but sliced delicately and the texture was delightful, it paired terrifically with the sauce. The pan juice drizzled on the cooked blackened Pork roulade is a more rustic approach. The roulade of leek glued with tomato based sauce provides a little too much spicy heat to compliment the blackened pork. The skill of the Chef was on show with both these well sized and terrifically cooked dishes.

Our fill in maitre d’ was talented but not receiving sufficient support from fairly incompetent others’. They made basic errors in a restaurant that is attempting service close to silver, but currently tarnished. Staff should trust in their skill, as their unease at times was visible. Desserts sampled were safe choices of Lemon and Chocolate layered Brulee and a Mille-feuille (lots of pastry layers) of berries and mascarpone cream. Both were thoroughly enjoyed, the rich intense thickness of chocolate texture against the brulee was the brick wall to succinctly finish any meal. The kitchen seemed very calm and skilfully served all meals without error although a more measured hand on spice would create more allure to a dish and have punters wanting more of Archies. Credit must be given to Archies for their courage in being bold in the flavour of their dishes, no one will leave wondering but get there before the menu changes after its short cycle. The dishes are tried and tested classics from regions well suited to the South Australian dining set. The spartan interior space reflects the iconic branding of Archies, and with a little polish it will shine.

Giles

Panacea - Review

In Greek mythology Apollo was pretty much the god of everything and Panacea his granddaughter was the goddess of cures, let’s not delve into her siblings... they’re the ugly ones! Panacea the restaurant has been open for only a few weeks and the god’s are smiling on her. Panacea is not traditional al a carte dining, it offers a Spanish sharing al a carte menu. There are myths of defunct tapas bars and sold out sharing menus lurking in Adelaide’s recent past, can Panacea do as its name prescribes and cure the drought of modern sharing menu eateries? The greeting at Panacea is friendly and relaxed and by decree of the manager is the way it will stay, I feel at ease with their quiet confidence. Hospitality can wear a person down until they can be spread too thin over too much. Confidence could be replaced with complacency or attention to detail can be sold out to the margin of dollars and depleted efforts result in failure. What I see at Panacea is a concept become reality for Andy Curren and Adam Nero who have not short changed the style of Panacea. They have made their way into the CBD from the Hyde Park Cibo Espresso, and have given Dioni Pike (ex Wine Underground / Carrick Hill) Head Chef and ‘alchemist’ duties of this cure all on Halifax St. There is an even distribution of staff right through to the open plan galley kitchen so you can always sight a staff member. The menu was sampled in the manner appropriate to a tapas bar with a plate of Olives and Peppers ($8) that were smooth flavoured and lusciously textured. Closely followed by a medium sized plate titled a ‘Small Plate’ of Rabbit with white bean and Spanish sausage hotpot ($14). This is not surprisingly the most popular dish on the menu as it is the rich, slow roasted game that many would find very appealing, especially with a slice of crusty bread. Octopus Pulpo ala gallega ($17) a piled plate of octopus, could have been terrific but suffers from its reheating and could need more acidity in the coating of sauce. Cous Cous crumbed scallops ($15), were so sweet you could swear they were enhanced, but the light crumb brought the soft scallops balance and suited the tightly textured bean puree it was accompanied with. We made perhaps a false move and ordered pasta from their specials board on the rangehood, but only few would sneer at our diversion from the tapas. The Fettucine, vongole with tarragon and white wine sauce ($16) was a big serve, it had loads of cockles, less wine than tarragon, which made the dish aromatic and a special creaminess that was certainly not weighed down by the dairy. Selections of imbibes were easy to make off of such an eclectic wine list. For a glass divide the bottle price by five. Later I still had some wine to quaff so ordered the lip smacking Vine wrapped sardines ($15). A rich salty sardine nicely tempered by almonds and sultanas and mellowed further with vine leaves, perfect with a fleshy white wine. Panacea was expertly treating our ailments and then there were Churros with chocolate ($11) to be had! The utterly delicious serve of aromatic hot pastry and dark chocolate sauce will keep punters rolling in late well into the winter evenings. I could not get past a Pedro Ximenez Sherry with the small dessert as there would not be Tapas without Sherry! Make plans and book a table at Panacea or just roll in ‘Tapas style’ and claim a spot at the bar because the inner city of Adelaide is doing the same. They are coming back for more as I have because it is totally justified.

Giles

Tea Tree Gully Hotel - Review

Head north of Grand Junction Rd in Adelaide and you run a big risk! The risk of attending a Tavern or a generic franchised cafe! This fate would perhaps render you useless for the remainder of the week until you recover in hospital and your personal possessions are eventually returned to you. I am always pleased to frequent venues with a better reputation than their glossy franchised cousins. The Tea Tree Gully Hotel is a unique venue as it has a monster footprint but provides less of a cafe culture and more of a hotel that knows its place. Seated on timber benches surrounded by the greenery under the cover of a massive atrium; this beer garden is possibly as large as The Edinburgh in Mitcham which takes the cake for gardens of beer. The beer selection is standard Lion Nathan fizzy amber water including their under the radar “Craft” beer James Squire’s. There are so many places to order food it is unlikely that there are actually that many kitchens, but there seems to be a kitchen for the beer garden which is a positive. The food is very standard Hotel ‘grub’ with very little fanfare or fluff – I don’t mind a pub who is not ashamed of who they are. So unashamed are they that there is no salad to fill out your catering porcelain, nifty hey?! So if you wanted rabbit food you would order a Caesar or a Garden thingy. The Steaks are char grilled and have the genuine flavour although need to be rested a further ten minutes before serving. The Schnitzels are good enough for a personally clogged artery or a leap in blood pressure! The ale battered flathead was fresh and crispy batter made it a pleasure, The Seafood basket was crumbed within an inch of its life and looked suspiciously like it came from a packet – avoid this at all cost! The ‘Homemade’ tartare sauce mentioned throughout the menu is clearly not homemade, unless your home is a food processing plant responsible for tonnes of gelatinous muck! The Tea Tree Gully Hotel does have a tendency to get extremely busy however we were treated to a leisurely afternoon in peace which was only broken by the gleeful screams of toddlers. Clearly this venue has a friendly family attitude. With some small changes to The Gully things could really move in a healthy direction, but for the time being they will continue to service the community with deep fried food and char grilled meat. Just remember that you need to order a side salad to feed your fluffy bunny!
Giles

The Wine Underground - Review

The logistics of what to do on New Years Eve can be a real struggle. Party, transport, booze, parking. Could the prospect of vomit and sore feet get you excited about a new years eve?! It used to get me foaming at the mouth, so please roll me over! This year was a little more refined, the choice was made to attend a moderately priced degustation at The Wine Underground, 121 Pirie St. This is not my first choice of venue but many options on NYE were over priced or booked out or both! So you may wonder why this moderately priced option for a unique experience. The truth was because I had suggested it to a colleague as an alternative for ‘Citrus’ on Hutt St. and they were pleasantly surprised. So I thought it only wise to try out the new look Wine Underground after it was damaged by an explosion. I had high hopes for the night’s food as the chefs listed on their website are experienced and are more than capable at impressing on the plate. On arrival I enquired about the presence of a Chef of who I knew well enough to enquire about, but sadly a long haired “ink festooned” chef informed me she no longer worked there. Bugger! Dessert’s potential has just crashed, and when I preview the menu some things have been changed from the email version - Hmmm interesting.

We are greeted over the bar in a Restaurant which seems an interesting way to do business, but it is near impossible to miss the bar as you enter the underground restaurant. We perch on the stools and peruse the well lit scene. No zebras were harmed in the making of the carpet squares but it may have added to the drama if the squares were once a herd on the savannah.
After a sweet glass of Billecart – Salmon we sat and ordered a Vertigo Adelaide Hills Riesling which only really matched the Snapper which was the pick of the night. The smoked potato puree was wonderfully intense but I am not sure if vanilla nage is really necessary. The entre was aesthetically pleasing but when tested really needed to be re ordered onto the fork, I am sure the artistic endeavour of our junior chef is worthy but for the sake of the flavour of the dish remove the candied orange and put it on the dessert and try something not so sweet. The erratic wine list has limited choice by the glass which should be rare in a restaurant that attempts a degustation, perhaps a sommelier would help but good help is hard to find. The Maude New Zealand Pinot Noir was the most boisterous type red on the short glass list of reds. The pinot was well matched to the quail, so much in fact that I ran out half way through the tail of ox! The quail breast was brilliantly cooked and was rich and pungent. The twice cooked leg reminded me of the colonels secrets herbs and spices, so the secrets out! The remainder of the dish despite being interesting texturally didn’t come together to support the quail. Poor little bird never saw it coming. The oxtail received good treatment and the outcome reflected it, although I was suspicious of the peas! The peas! Was I seriously pushing the peas around the plate wondering, pondering, calculating, hypothesizing? How much of a wanker would I seem If I asked if the peas were fresh? Why should I seem? Why should the peas be in question in the first place? I know frozen packet peas. I have served more than my fare share to Hotel punters, and they know they are packet peas. (No questions asked) Is it ok to serve packet peas on a $115 per head degustation dinner? Maybe. Maybe not. Dessert was just average and the young girls and boys at the local “Cold Rock” could give you something similar, but they don’t have Sevenhill Tokay.
When I recommended The Wine Underground to my colleague I was lucky that they enjoyed the experience and appreciated the recommendation. I was foolish to have not been there myself prior, but I am not sure if I would change my recommendation. I am sure though a moderately priced degustation will have some glaring issues that will leave you with unanswered questions.
Giles