It is well known that North Adelaide is the richest and possibly the most conservative suburb in Adelaide. It has a cluster of Cafes and Restaurants mostly clinging to the vein that is O’Connell St, few stray further as the exposure is limited elsewhere. It all comes to head at the corner of Tynte St. and O’Connell St where three cafes face off. It is beyond my limited memory to know or remember what existed in any of the spots before these venues, as it seems none of them have changed dramatically in 15 years. There could be a reason why they have not changed in so long, but on recent review there is good reason why they should.
Caffe Paesano: Paesano has been the more successful of the three over the years but more recently they have let their usually reasonable standard slip. The proof is in a mediocre Fettucine Alla Casalinga (E: $15, M: $17.50) which lacked any of the richness or punch you would expect with powerful ingredients as capers, sun dried toms and sausage. The Gnocchi with Chilli Prawns in a rose` sauce (E: $17.50, M: $20.50) was satisfactory, and their cakes are always nice as a little take home treat. They still have terrific Gelatti but I am unsure if it is made onsite as they used to advertise years ago... I was once a fan of Paesano when it provided the hustle and bustle of a humming Caffe, the mounting competition seems to be taking its toll. Maybe they will finally turn off all the neon lights?
Fellini Cafe: Fellini made the move recently to provide table service to punters, it sets it apart from the standard Cafe routine of mingle, deliberate, order and scout for a table all at once. With a wood fired oven central to their menu, you can count that they are not going to let some “Joe Shmo” handle such an important task and the pizza’s are quality to boot. I am still at odds with their interior decorating choices of scary portraits: These would have cost too much to just paint over, but somebody should cos’ Marylin Monroe ain’t lookin’ that flash. The Margherita ($18.90) is my tip, use your knife and fork and sip your red slowly, remember the fold and stuff died with Pizza Hut. There is a reason this pizza is on every pizza menu in the world and Fellini’s effort is worth a try at least until the art freaks you out.
Scuzzi Cafe: These guys should just shut up shop, or maybe just sell puncture repair kits! The layout of the tables defies logic with dodgy Motel Lobby armchairs putting you inches below the ideal eating height, I see many elderly struggling with elbows and knives cocked and skewed as they wonder why they didn’t sit at the table like normal people. I sample their Lasagne ($15) and my dining partner tries the Saltimbocca Fungi ($21). Only the lasagne passes just with a salty gasp! The Veal was tough and dry, not one or the other which is almost forgivable given the price of really good veal. Our waiters walked in the back door of the wrong business this evening, they looked completely out of sorts – lost even. The only reason you would go there if you had a sweaty voucher wedge in your lycra bike shorts for a free meal, but clearly you have no shame all ready so off you push!
Tynte and O’Connell are the address of Adelaide’s best restaurant’s and some of the worst, with the amount of choice offered just a few doors either side you could do much better than these three but you might want to slip in for a slice of wood fired pizza, tiramisu or have your bike stolen before these old haunts disappear forever.
Giles
Footnote: There seems to have been plenty of room for error in the recent past for Italian Cafe's, good times and plenty of punters. Now that KRuddy has uttered the big "recession" punters will go back into their shells and those venues that have not been cutting the mustard or have not got their finger into some sort of laundering or organised crime junket will fold! Keep your eyes peeled...