Movida Bar De Tapas - Review

Duck liver parfait with a Pedro Ximenez Foam served with a crispy toast.  A glass of very forgiving Gewurztraminer.  Movida Bar de Tapas on Hozier Lane is the obscenely popular heart of Tapas in Melbourne - I am happy to test it out.  More dishes crowd up our bar level table wedged between the kitchen pass and the bar where spots turnover every thirty to forty five minutes.

The low lighting and high ceilings partnered with the distinctly gritty lane scenery out the warehouse style windows create a quasi bohemian setting.  The menu is split into single tapas serves and sharing plates, specials are recited with a little difficulty which I think is splendid as it means only one thing that they are todays specials and not the monthly chalk board stalwart.  The saturday lunch time throng is pushing through the door and I feel extremely lucky to have been sat, fed and wined with such attentive efficiency.  We concur on our order over another glass of white and our list seems to be growing: Jamon of course, Braised beef cheek with a superbly creamy cauli puree, portobello mushrooms in a punchy sauce, roast garlic, tomato and herb breads which seem to be our palette cleanser, two roast quail breast with braised quail flesh, croutons, and grapes.

The food in general is very enjoyable and a touch daring that you would feel enriched by the endeavor but not so much challenged by any stretch.  The real draw card is the popularity of the venue and its detractor is the heaving populous standing at the door waiting for more.  Seven days a week lunch and dinner, not many venues can do this and do it so very successfully.  The tuning is near perfect on this purring machine, not even a drip of oil could slip this engineered status symbol up.

Giles

Italian Passion.

There are institutions and then there is Glenside mental health facility, Lucia's is the former and is well and truly treated with an untouchable treatment.  We picked up some produce and slipped by Lucia's for a black coffee (very, very Italian) and a milk / thick shake with some Minestrone soup and a Papadelle with napoletana sauce.  The Minestrone was the perfect solution to a widening gap on a cold morning at the Central Markets, the Pasta was luscious, with great texture. The sauce however was a real let down, lacking any sort of passion, the sort of passion you might find in an Italian staple like a Fiat 500!  Not even cheese and seasoning could save the splitting failure.  I will return and order the same again and be heartily comforted as usual, but on this occasion there was disappointed - perhaps not unlike a italian engineering perhaps?

Giles

Queens St. Cafe

Queen St Cafe in Croydon is a well established (and supported by other small venues) cafe that has strengthened its hold on the sit own trade for a smart breakfast or lunch.  We enjoyed the re invigorated regulars of Avocado on dark rye now with speck, genius move!  As well as Belgian waffles with berry compote!  The coffee is really good - whilst not trying any pretentious frothery (?) The interior suits the range of eclectic neighbours and I am pleased the Queen St Cafe is now secure as a consistent performer!

Lime is complimentary (for free!)

Giles

Governors Table...

The Governors House had an opening day today and amongst the lush manicured gardens were very enthusiastic yet restrained men in bowler hats looking like a TinTin comic stepping out in two's and "Ladies" spinning their parasols.  Inside was a picture of etiquette, especially the main dining room that was set ready to go for a dinner to be hosted by the Governor and wife Kevin and Liz Scarce.  The menu was soup, roast lamb, poached fruit, and cheese.  Sound pretty blah - yes, but the table setting was something else.  A real treat for all those formal dining freaks out there!

Next time I throw a dinner party my place card will read 'His Excellency' - No shit!

Giles

Enoteca - A few good points...

Passionate people rarely stand still, like a fidgeting child often the forced pauses between action can get the better of those with pressurised claret coursing through their veins.  Chefs, artists and thinkers are alike in this pursuit of challenge and success.  When the limited gaze of food and wine reviewers cast an eye over the food, wine and assemblage of other factors in the entire package it can feel as though there should always be some sort of communication between passionate food lover and passionate chef.  Perhaps this might relay some of the real energy that surrounds the electric nature of hospitality.  A common act at the conclusion of a dish: waiter clears plates and enquires with the customer, on accassion there is wild eyed ecstacy!  Words gush from the table... Does this passionate homage to the food make its desired effect on the chef?  It also begs the question is the adoration a perk of the job or is it a driver to continue the pursuit of excellence?
In 2007, Sarah Turner then Head Chef at Enoteca (Cucina) won the relatively prestigious Chef of the Year.  It was an accumulation of success for the Restaurant / Function centre, building a reputation as a premium venue with a lot to offer the middle to high market of enquisitive and refined diners.  Turner promptly exited taking an opportunity at the Colonel Light Hotel which had been sent back in time and renovated by a not so talented Kubrick set designer. Enoteca apparently suffered in the years after, loosing its way with some punters colloquially not impressed with service and surrounds.  Although rarely was the food mentioned as being poor...
Our last visit to Enoteca was a resounding success, mainly due to the terrific service and '05 King valley Sangiovese and of course the food.  Entree was a brief look at some olives and bread, as well as a plate of sliced proscuitto with hazelnut,s figs, pecorino and a glaze that made you want to die promptly to sustain the joy.  Our mains were pasta and gnocchi and I was not put off by the saltiness that permiatted a sausage and scallop sphaghetti as the delicate texture of the dish carried it through this heavy handed fopar.  The gnochi was a jaw dropper...  Yes you know the drill.... soft pillows finely texture, the robust walnut and aragula pesto was a terriffic accompaniment to the brilliant gnocchi.
Hopefully our compliments made it over the pass and into the kitchen to lift their spirits and perhaps reassure the hard working team that their toil is worthwhile.  With sustained hard work the praise will continue to flow and the real test will be to show wisdom and restraint if or when opportunity beckons for those involved.